Walther CP2 valve seal?

[fhorrigan]

Can anyone tell me where I might be able to get a valve seal (and other seals) for a Walther CP2? The part numbers I am looking for are listed below.

My valve seal failed about 2 weeks ago and I have been unable to locate a replacement after contacting most of the Walther dealers recommended in previous posts (Pilkguns, Earls repair, Umarex, Protek). Earl's repair and Protek have everything except the valve seal. Protek is trying to source one for me, but I haven't heard anything yet. Pilkguns has a small supply - but they're for repairs only so they won't sell me one. Pilkguns say they got their seals from Umarex, but Umarex claims they don't have those parts (or anything for the CP2), they can't order them, and can't tell me where to try...


Part No. Size Factory Part No.
Valve seal 45 4.0 X 1 245 96 47
Cylinder housing seal 48 12.0 x 2 243 79 02
Bolt O-ring 226 4.0 X 1 247 23 09
Cylinder seal 27 14.0 X 3 245 98 17
Inner cylinder seal 68 7.65 X 1.63 247 35 26

[Rover]

Champions Choice was/is a Walther dealer and repair shop. Try them.

I would also try Neal Stepp at ISS. PHONE him.

THEN email Walther in Europe.

[fhorrigan]

Rover - Thanks for the suggestion! Champion's choice did indeed have the valve seal. It's on its way. However, they said there is no guarantee it will work because it is new old stock - they aren't being made by the factory anymore.

I hope the replacement will work. But it sounds like sooner or later I'll need to find a substitute for this valve seal. I imagine that won't be easy because it isn't a simple o-ring, it has a concave face that seals with the valve. Does anyone know what material such seals are made of? Is it possible to "make" a valve seal (e.g. by modifying a standard o-ring)??

[Rover]

I doubt very much that the factory makes O-rings. They are out there somewhere. There are shops that specialize in O-rings and such. If you take/send your old one to them, I would not be surprised if you found some very cheaply. ACE Hardware has a huge selection with their small parts and also with their plumbing fittings. I just bought one there this morning for $.79.

[Pistoley]

Viton is the wrong material, should be polyurethane.

However, the original items are probably still in stock in Canada...they were when I checked in Nov.

https://www.airgunsplus.ca/

245-60-10 bolt seal 2472309 -$8.99
245-98-17 Tank oring = $8.50
245-96-47 oring = $8.95
243-79-02 oring = $8.95
243-76-60 schlagstift Not in stock.
245-94-00 tank valve (?) = 73.45

[fhorrigan]

Pistoley - thanks for the additional parts source and the seal material. I knew the CO2 cylinder o-ring is polyurethane, and that polyurethane is used for that purpose because it is CO2- and abrasion-resistant. But I wasn't sure if polyurethane was also good for valve seals.

m1963 - I'll check out your o-ring source.

[TORSI]

You can write to Judith Billharz <kontakt@schiesssport-billharz.de> - she understand Enrglish, but I dont know what about shipping (because her shop is in Germany): http://www.schiesssport-billharz.de/shop/

[c-more]

I'm about to rework 2 pistols and 7 cylinders. I have the 5 0-ring set for the pistol and the 2 O-rings for the cylinders on order from Earls. I'm not sure which one is more like a quad ring (square section). A "nomenclature" list for the various part numbers would have been nice. It's probably on the reverse side of the exploded view :)

So, did Earls fail to mention the specially shaped valve seal ring I will need to finish the job?

There's a good utube video of gun disassembly, but I can't find anything on the cylinders (ie...torque value?).
I'd also like to hot-rod them a bit over factory maximum, if it is feasible and reversible.
This is new ground for me so I appreciate any guidance. I'll document any lessons learned for others.
-------------
Crosman 2300T
IZH-46
LP-53
CP-2
OSP

[fhorrigan]

c-more I just saw your post. I finally was able to replace my valve seal and get my CP2 working today. The valve seal is actually a simple round cross-section o-ring. I think the "extra" one I had with my pistol was already used and therefore deformed to match the valve.

It's interesting that Earl's was able to order everything for you - they told me they couldn't get the valve seal. Champion's Choice said they had it, but it turns out they only had the seal for CP2-match, which is different. I finally was able to get it from Neal Stepp at ISS.

The only tips I can add for a pistol this old is to make sure the seal surfaces are clean. Mine had fragments of prior o-rings stuck to the brass, like glue, which was preventing the new o-rings from forming a tight seal. I finally had to use a solvent and a lot of elbow grease to remove the residue and get it to work.

I would be happy to hear anything you learn about how to replace the internal seal on the CO2 cylinder or probe seal on the pistol. The two CO2 cylinders I was using have both developed slow leaks since the valve-seal failed. I think, fragments of the failed seal may have fallen into the cylinders, preventing their valves from closing completely. But I am not sure the best way to open them up to check. I was also hoping to replace the probe seal on the pistol. But I gather one has to remove the rear sight and operating lever (#226) to remove the probe to replace the seal. And I haven't been able to remove that lever.

[chuck2942]

Does anyone know how to disassemble the cylinder. I was instructed to unscrew the top as to replace the innards. It won’t budge. Would like to know how to unscrew using a14mm Allen socket. Are the threads right hand? Would appreciate info. Thanks, charlie

[fc60]

Greetings Chuck,

I just started to Monkey around with a new to me CP2.

The 14mm hex drive 'should' remove the larger assembly. I have not gone that far, just yet.

Looking inside the cylinder, one can see a M14x1.0 brass plug with a screwdriver slot. This is the little assembly that unscrews (right hand thread) that allows you to replace an o-ring.

After the plug is removed, there is a spring and flat washer at the bottom of the hole. Further down is, I believe, a gauze filter. My filter did not come out and I did not press the issue.

Walther sell a special screwdriver to remove the plug. I happened to have a flat end screwdriver that had a slot in the center to clear the gas pin.

It may not come out easy. Mine required placing the screwdriver in my lathe chuck and locking the spindle. Next, I used a small strap wrench to break it loose.

Later on, I will machine a set of Aluminum blocks to clamp the cylinder and have a go at removing the larger brass fitting. I fear they may have used a sealant on the threads and disassembly will be much more challenging. Might be a good idea to leave well enough alone if the cylinder does not leak after replacing the little o-ring in the brass slotted plug.

Oh yes, almost forgot. Make sure the cylinder is empty!

Cheers,

Dave

[spektr]

On disassembly, patience and KROIL will be your friend...... Apply kroil to the parting plane and it will
wick into the threads and help you a lot