1) Before removing or screwing on the cylinder from the air-pistol, should the air-pistol be cocked and the cocking lever left in the vertical (open breech) position?
2) How accurate are the manometers on the air-pistol cylinders, i.e. +/- what percentage or BAR?
3) At what rate does one fill the air-pistol cylinders from a scuba tank - very slow, slow, medium or fast?
4) What is the cubic capacity of the cylinders provided with the LP10P?
5) Are there any complaints from LP10P owners who have only used a manual pump to charge the cylinders?
6) Is it adviseable to keep shooting when the manometer needle is in the yellow zone? I have found that I could maintain the same point of impact almost throughout the yellow zone. There was just a trace of yellow visible when the shot dropped from the original point of impact.
Many thanks.
Rustam.
rustambana-at-satyam.net.in.42340.0
Some technical clarifications on the Steyr LP10P required.
Moderators: rexifelis, pilkguns
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Jerry LeVan
Re: Some technical clarifications on the Steyr LP10P require
Hi Rustam,
: 1) Before removing or screwing on the cylinder from the air-pistol, should the air-pistol be cocked and the cocking lever left in the vertical (open breech) position?
I have never opened/cocked my LP10P prior to attaching/detaching the cylinder. I don't think it makes a difference.
: 2) How accurate are the manometers on the air-pistol cylinders, i.e. +/- what percentage or BAR?
I have a manometer on my scuba tank. The readings on the LP10P and Scuba tank closely match. ( On my Morini the gages <b>always</b> read full.)
: 3) At what rate does one fill the air-pistol cylinders from a scuba tank - very slow, slow, medium or fast?
It is difficult to fill the cylinders "very slowly". I try to crack the valve slowly but the cylinder still only takes a couple of seconds to fill. After the initial "rush" I open the main valve a bit more and install the other cylinder on the LP10. I then dismount the recently filled cylinder.
: 4) What is the cubic capacity of the cylinders provided with the LP10P?
I don't know, it might be written on the cylinder...
: 5) Are there any complaints from LP10P owners who have only used a manual pump to charge the cylinders?
I do not have any experience with the manual pump. The main points that I have picked up from various posts is that a nontrivial amount of work goes into filling the cylinder and there is a background fear of excessive moisture getting into the system and causing corrosion.
The main upside to the pump is that you can take it with you and you have an inexhaustible supply of propellant.
: 6) Is it adviseable to keep shooting when the manometer needle is in the yellow zone? I have found that I could maintain the same point of impact almost throughout the yellow zone. There was just a trace of yellow visible when the shot dropped from the original point of impact.
It is my understanding that most AP regulators limit the pressure to about 70 BAR, when you get below the regulator limit velocity will start dropping. Why ask for trouble? Use the other cylinder when the needle gets into the yellow. A 200 BAR fill will easily be enough for a 60 shot match with sighters.
: Many thanks.
: Rustam.
--Jerry
jerry.levan-at-eku.edu.42342.42340
: 1) Before removing or screwing on the cylinder from the air-pistol, should the air-pistol be cocked and the cocking lever left in the vertical (open breech) position?
I have never opened/cocked my LP10P prior to attaching/detaching the cylinder. I don't think it makes a difference.
: 2) How accurate are the manometers on the air-pistol cylinders, i.e. +/- what percentage or BAR?
I have a manometer on my scuba tank. The readings on the LP10P and Scuba tank closely match. ( On my Morini the gages <b>always</b> read full.)
: 3) At what rate does one fill the air-pistol cylinders from a scuba tank - very slow, slow, medium or fast?
It is difficult to fill the cylinders "very slowly". I try to crack the valve slowly but the cylinder still only takes a couple of seconds to fill. After the initial "rush" I open the main valve a bit more and install the other cylinder on the LP10. I then dismount the recently filled cylinder.
: 4) What is the cubic capacity of the cylinders provided with the LP10P?
I don't know, it might be written on the cylinder...
: 5) Are there any complaints from LP10P owners who have only used a manual pump to charge the cylinders?
I do not have any experience with the manual pump. The main points that I have picked up from various posts is that a nontrivial amount of work goes into filling the cylinder and there is a background fear of excessive moisture getting into the system and causing corrosion.
The main upside to the pump is that you can take it with you and you have an inexhaustible supply of propellant.
: 6) Is it adviseable to keep shooting when the manometer needle is in the yellow zone? I have found that I could maintain the same point of impact almost throughout the yellow zone. There was just a trace of yellow visible when the shot dropped from the original point of impact.
It is my understanding that most AP regulators limit the pressure to about 70 BAR, when you get below the regulator limit velocity will start dropping. Why ask for trouble? Use the other cylinder when the needle gets into the yellow. A 200 BAR fill will easily be enough for a 60 shot match with sighters.
: Many thanks.
: Rustam.
--Jerry
jerry.levan-at-eku.edu.42342.42340
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Rustam Bana
Thanks Jerry.
Anyone with answers to questions 3, 4 and 5?
Thanks.
Rustam.
.42350.42342
Thanks.
Rustam.
.42350.42342
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Roland Cannon
I will try number 5
I have been using a manual pump on the cylinders of my LP 10. I really dont know what to say...It works!
I maintain my pump on a regular basis. Even in a place as dry as utah, there is still moisture in the air. The metal balls in the pump need to be cleaned every several months to prevent the moisture trapped there from attacking the pump.
If the cylinder is completly enpty, figure 45-50 strokes to fill it. No big deal. I usually take about ten minutes to pump them all the way up. The pump will do it faster, I usually get tired (or bored) pumping this long.
I have only filled out of a scuba tank once. The guy that was doing this said to fill slow out of one. I presume this was because of the heat issues that happen from a fast fill.
.42357.42340
I maintain my pump on a regular basis. Even in a place as dry as utah, there is still moisture in the air. The metal balls in the pump need to be cleaned every several months to prevent the moisture trapped there from attacking the pump.
If the cylinder is completly enpty, figure 45-50 strokes to fill it. No big deal. I usually take about ten minutes to pump them all the way up. The pump will do it faster, I usually get tired (or bored) pumping this long.
I have only filled out of a scuba tank once. The guy that was doing this said to fill slow out of one. I presume this was because of the heat issues that happen from a fast fill.
.42357.42340