New Steyr EVO 10... HELP!!!

[deadeyedick]

Okay, I'm slowly starting to understand what you kind folks are telling me.

I thought that was a pressure relief valve opening up on the scuba tank, but it's really just a vent hole? Now I get it.

But isn't it unusual/strange that with a 3400 psi (232 BAR) tank, the supplied adapter doesn't work and that I need a longer (300 BAR) adapter? I mean, my tanks are NOT 300 BAR tanks!

Looks like I'm dead in the water with this until I can get the proper adapter, and that's going to take at LEAST a week. SIGH

Can you give me a clue about what those "intermediate o-ring spacers" look like? Or that nylon spacer you're talking about? My only chance is that once I know what to look for, I might find something in a local hardware store that would work. Is the idea to fill in the space between the scuba DIN valve and the adapter? What you use doesn't need to be threaded? But it would have to make a good seal in that space, right? So that air doesn't escape around it to the vent hole?

Thank you all for your kind help!!

You have not got a seal between the bottom of your steyr adaptor and the bottom surface in the scuba valve...you need to space, or bridge this gap.

Right....Most 200 bar tanks come with a 200 bar valve, however sometimes they come with a 300 bar valve and I have owned two...where the threaded portion is deeper by about 3mm than the 200 bar.

I have included a picture of a fitting available at scuba shops that when it is machined to a shorter section and screwed into the scuba valve will allow the steyr adaptor to seal properly when finger tightened and prevent the air escaping out the vent hole.

However as I mentioned earlier you could use a 3mm thick nylon washer with about a 6 mm hole and place it into the scuba valve before screwing in the adaptor.
Even though it does not have o rings a little more tightening and it works fine without leaks.

In fact the scuba tank at our Club has a 300 bar valve and we had to find a way for 200 bar adaptors to be used.....you guessed it, the nylon washer works just fine and no more lost air out the vent.

p.s. If you use the optional scuba fitting you must machine to an appropriate thickness. You will lose the lower o ring, but it will screw in and seal perfectly with your adaptor.
Finally, the nylon washer works as well and is much easier.

Another bright spark used an automotive oil drain plug copper washer of the appropriate size and it also worked.....its up to you now dude.

[David M]

Have a look here.
http://www.nigelhewitt.co.uk/diving/din.html

232 bar DIN - 5 thread
Notice 1 inch (25mm) front to back outside dimension and the dimple for the A-clamp's screw. When I bought these they were sold as A-clamps by being supplied with the slug (see below) factory installed. I used them as A-clamps for my first couple of years diving.
If you screw a 300bar DIN regulator in here it winds down the 5 threads and then compresses the O-ring and is ready to dive. Also notice the quite wide but shallow hole at the bottom of the threaded section.

300 bar DIN - 7 thread
Notice 1.4" (35mm) depth and no dimple so an A-clamp frame just will not fit (Yes I know the bull bars are in the way too).
If you screw a 232bar regulator in here it is too deep for the O-ring to tighten against the bottom and it will not seal so there is no danger of blowing your 232bar regs up on 300bar pressure. Also notice that the hole at the bottom of the threaded section is narrower than the 232 bar DIN - what is hard to see in a picture is that it is deeper.

[Mtl_Biker]

Okay, I'm slowly starting to understand what you kind folks are telling me.

I thought that was a pressure relief valve opening up on the scuba tank, but it's really just a vent hole? Now I get it.

But isn't it unusual/strange that with a 3400 psi (232 BAR) tank, the supplied adapter doesn't work and that I need a longer (300 BAR) adapter? I mean, my tanks are NOT 300 BAR tanks!

Looks like I'm dead in the water with this until I can get the proper adapter, and that's going to take at LEAST a week. SIGH

Can you give me a clue about what those "intermediate o-ring spacers" look like? Or that nylon spacer you're talking about? My only chance is that once I know what to look for, I might find something in a local hardware store that would work. Is the idea to fill in the space between the scuba DIN valve and the adapter? What you use doesn't need to be threaded? But it would have to make a good seal in that space, right? So that air doesn't escape around it to the vent hole?

Thank you all for your kind help!!

You have not got a seal between the bottom of your steyr adaptor and the bottom surface in the scuba valve...you need to space, or bridge this gap.

Right....Most 200 bar tanks come with a 200 bar valve, however sometimes they come with a 300 bar valve and I have owned two...where the threaded portion is deeper by about 3mm than the 200 bar.

I have included a picture of a fitting available at scuba shops that when it is machined to a shorter section and screwed into the scuba valve will allow the steyr adaptor to seal properly when finger tightened and prevent the air escaping out the vent hole.

However as I mentioned earlier you could use a 3mm thick nylon washer with about a 6 mm hole and place it into the scuba valve before screwing in the adaptor.
Even though it does not have o rings a little more tightening and it works fine without leaks.

In fact the scuba tank at our Club has a 300 bar valve and we had to find a way for 200 bar adaptors to be used.....you guessed it, the nylon washer works just fine and no more lost air out the vent.

p.s. If you use the optional scuba fitting you must machine to an appropriate thickness. You will lose the lower o ring, but it will screw in and seal perfectly with your adaptor.
Finally, the nylon washer works as well and is much easier.

Another bright spark used an automotive oil drain plug copper washer of the appropriate size and it also worked.....its up to you now dude.

Thank you!

I'm off to the biggest hardware store in the area to see what I could come up with. Sure hate to waste my weekend by not being able to use/try the pistol.

[jerber]

Have you checked the adapter to make sure there's nothing blocking the air way ?
Just simply put the adapter on the tank valve and slowly open the valve and check if air comes out of adapter
Or maybe the valve on the cylinder is stuck?
Have you tried to screw the discharge cap/screw?
Maybe this will push that stuck valve(if it's stuck of course)

[Mtl_Biker]

Have you checked the adapter to make sure there's nothing blocking the air way ?
Just simply put the adapter on the tank valve and slowly open the valve and check if air comes out of adapter
Or maybe the valve on the cylinder is stuck?
Have you tried to screw the discharge cap/screw?
Maybe this will push that stuck valve(if it's stuck of course)

I picked up some nylon washers at the hardware store and one of them seems to do the trick. At least I'm finally able to fill the Steyr air cylinders and try the pistol. Horrah!!! Not an ideal solution but at least it lets me proceed. I've ordered one of the other adapters that was mentioned in this thread.

But now I seem to have another issue... :)

I'm trying to zero the sights and it appears to me that the rear site cannot go any lower than it is now as the bottom edge is hard against the wooden grip:



I had been adjusting and adjusting, trying to get my poi lower and then noticed this. Could this be correct?

[Silvershooter]

Are you turning the adjustment screw the right way ?
If the shots are going high turn towards H.
Shots going low turn towards T

[Mtl_Biker]

Are you turning the adjustment screw the right way ?
If the shots are going high turn towards H.
Shots going low turn towards T

Yes, turning it the right way (same as with my FWB 602). But I figured it out. (I just made the wrong assumption that straight out of the box, the way it's set up would only require a little tweaking.)

The whole rear sight assembly was too far forward, causing the bottom of it to butt up against the wood grip (as in my photo). There's a tiny little screw there that if loosened, allows the whole assembly to move forward and backward. I just moved it backward (increasing the sight line) so that the bottom edge clears the grip. The elevation adjustment is now free to move properly through the full range.

I've just about got the sights zeroed now, so soon I'll be working on my one-hand unsupported technique.

Life is good again! :)

[Rover]

Why did you buy this nightmare when you could have had a top of the line SSP for a third of the price?

[hundert]

You need to use the screws on the botom of the pistol under the grip (2 turns).
I have the same problem with a 10E that the rear sight sits on the grip and prevents it from going lower. Experiment a bit with the screws until you have a thin space between the rear sight and the grip.

It's also possible to correct it by moving the rear sight back (the screw for moving the rear sight back is on top of the rear sight block, at least on a 10E), but I have short arms so I prefer the rear sight all the way forward otherwise it's too blurry

[Silvershooter]

Even with the rear sight assembly all the way forward it should not hit the grip. I have an LP10 Compact, with the screws on the bottom of the frame all the way in.
Is the plastic spacer in place in the grip ?

[Mtl_Biker]

You need to use the screws on the botom of the pistol under the grip (2 turns).
I have the same problem with a 10E that the rear sight sits on the grip and prevents it from going lower. Experiment a bit with the screws until you have a thin space between the rear sight and the grip.

It's also possible to correct it by moving the rear sight back (the screw for moving the rear sight back is on top of the rear sight block, at least on a 10E), but I have short arms so I prefer the rear sight all the way forward otherwise it's too blurry

I'll have to take the grip off again to check for those screws on the bottom of the pistol. The grip itself is only held on the pistol with one screw. The wrist shelf is held with two. If I understand you correctly there is some kind of adjustment screw accessible only if you remove the grip?

In any case, moving the rear sight backward has solved the problem.

[Mtl_Biker]

Even with the rear sight assembly all the way forward it should not hit the grip. I have an LP10 Compact, with the screws on the bottom of the frame all the way in.
Is the plastic spacer in place in the grip ?

What does the plastic spacer look like? There was a printed note in the box saying that for single-shot pistols the spacer should be inserted, but there was no spacer in the box unless it had already been installed. When I had the grip off, I couldn't tell if the spacer was there or not because I didn't know what it looks like. I did see a metal L-shape bracket (?) that was sitting on top of something else, but I didn't check to see if it was plastic or not and it was pretty thick (like about 1/2"). Could that be the plastic spacer? I can't imagine that the grip would even fit on the gun without that.

[Mtl_Biker]

Why did you buy this nightmare when you could have had a top of the line SSP for a third of the price?

I wouldn't call it a "nightmare" at all. Just teething pains. All will be just fine.

I had spent several weeks looking for a good used match pistol and I was certainly open to getting an SSP, but I couldn't find one. And I'm in Canada, so the very large hassle of importing such a pistol from the States, particularly if it shoots over 500 fps and 4.2 fpe, just isn't worth it. Over that limit and it becomes a RESTRICTED firearm. Even if just a wee bit over as most of these match pistols are.

Besides, I just happen to like new things, particularly high quality ones. :)

[Silvershooter]

I did see a metal L-shape bracket (?) that was sitting on top of something else, but I didn't check to see if it was plastic or not and it was pretty thick (like about 1/2")Could that be the plastic spacer? I can't imagine that the grip would even fit on the gun without that.

Yes that's it.

[hundert]

my 10E did not come with a plastic spacer, only with a metallic L-thing. It would move the grip too far away from the bore line though on "E". I'm pretty sure it's not needed an I wouldn't want it there. My LP10 has a plastic spacer and can't be used without it (the grip touches the rear sight and the H, T, L, R knobs if removed).

The screws I meant are for adjusting the angle. http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/lp10gr.jpg
If you turn those 4 screws at the same time, your grip will move farther away from bore line and back sight.
I don't know if they're the same on EVO.

Happy shooting,

[deadeyedick]

It sounds like the grip is adjusted with maximum rake angle and touching the frame/sight at the rear.

Adjust two rear screws in order to reduce the rake angle to allow more room at the point it touches the frame.
Another way is simply to mark where the interference is and sand it with a sanding block...or Dremel and then finish with the sanding block.

[Gwelo]

Here's Steyr's video on adjusting the grip which can also affect the sights. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_4oMXIeZOY

[Mtl_Biker]

my 10E did not come with a plastic spacer, only with a metallic L-thing. It would move the grip too far away from the bore line though on "E". I'm pretty sure it's not needed an I wouldn't want it there. My LP10 has a plastic spacer and can't be used without it (the grip touches the rear sight and the H, T, L, R knobs if removed).

The screws I meant are for adjusting the angle. http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/lp10gr.jpg
If you turn those 4 screws at the same time, your grip will move farther away from bore line and back sight.
I don't know if they're the same on EVO.

Happy shooting,

Thank you for that, but I'm not sure I understand your comment about the grip moving too far away from the bore line on "E". What's "E"? My EVO 10 has "F" and "T".

About adjusting the rake, as you know I'm new to this. I wish there was someone experienced close by to help me make all the adjustments correctly for the gun to fit my hand best. The manual has no information at all about adjusting the grip, not even to point out what any of those screws do. And the EVO supposedly has a new grip which is different from the LP10. (Not sure in what way it's different.) Thanks to your pointing out those 4 screws, I did find a Youtube video about adjusting the LP10 grip, and that has helped with my understanding.

Cheers!

[Mtl_Biker]

It sounds like the grip is adjusted with maximum rake angle and touching the frame/sight at the rear.

Adjust two rear screws in order to reduce the rake angle to allow more room at the point it touches the frame.
Another way is simply to mark where the interference is and sand it with a sanding block...or Dremel and then finish with the sanding block.

Not sure (yet) that I'd want to start sanding or Dremel'ing the brand new grip. At least not until I'm convinced that I've got it adjusted to the very best position it can be in for me, and that then I want something different.

Is the rake adjustment something personal or is there a rule of thumb for it? And yes, you are probably correct in that the rake angle was too small thus causing the rear sight to bump against the grip. I solved that by moving the rear sight backward, but maybe I should have left it where it was and increased the rake angle. Pro's and Con's?

[Mtl_Biker]

Here's Steyr's video on adjusting the grip which can also affect the sights. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_4oMXIeZOY

Thanks very much for that link. I'd actually already found it, and it was very helpful.

Cheers!