Swaging 22 Chamber , how?

[xeye]

Starting a new thread relating to my Pardini fail to function thread. Just in case knowledgeable people may have passed it not owning a Pardini.

I am awaiting delivery of my swage.

If anyone has a good knowledge or a link to the proper procedure, please share it here.

[Rover]

If it's just the chamber, you can polish it out with emery paper and oil wrapped on a tired bore brush. You can even put the brush in a cordless drill and polish at low RPMs.

I've done this to one of my .22 barrels, and to enlarge the chamber throats on a revolver.

[fc60]

Greetings,

Would you kindly post a link to the "chamber swage"?

Never heard of one before.

Cheers,

Dave

[Dr. Jim]

I bought one from Brownells a few years ago. Hardened piece on an L shaped rod. The swage has a small flat which is supposed to be aligned with the damage, the swage inserted full depth, the carefully rotated. The cylinder pushes the damage back into place and done. Since the edge is likely to be softened, the repair may need to be repeated. I used mine a couple of times but it mainly lives in the drawer.

Dr Jim

[xeye]

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... 21977.aspx

link to item at Brownells

[nglitz]

Mostly, it's to repair damage caused by the firing pin hitting the back of the barrel around the chamber. Better to push the metal back than abrade it away. Moving steel makes it harder, not softer. It's called "work hardening". Metallurgy 101.

[JamesH]

If it's just the chamber, you can polish it out with emery paper and oil wrapped on a tired bore brush. You can even put the brush in a cordless drill and polish at low RPMs.

I've done this to one of my .22 barrels, and to enlarge the chamber throats on a revolver.

Don't under any circumstances do this. There's a good chance you'll make it worse and ruin the rifling lead-in to boot.

If its minor nicks then a brass lap might be OK, or a chamber reamer. I was in a hurry once and glued strips of fine wet and dry to a brass lap to clean up a 9mm chamber, worked a treat

I have not used one but I would suggest a high film-strength lubricant or unfilled grease with the chamber swage.

Personally I would clean up and look at the chamber under high magnification to figure out the problem. Its most likely damage near the breach face, but could be erosion deeper down.

[xeye]

Have Ironed the chamber using Moly camshaft lube and the Brownells swage tool. Function is improved very much. If I can get another 50 rounds of SK and Wolf through it without having to clean it, then I will consider it fixed. :)

[xeye]

OK,
got a chance to repeat the swage for the third time.

Ran 50 rounds SK PM Spezial through it without a hiccup.

Also Wolf MT, and Eley Target functioned without a hitch.

[Rover]

Why did you need to do it three times?

[xeye]

Why did you need to do it three times?

In the words of every machinist I have ever known..."...I can take more off, but I can't put it back."

It was a learning experience. I went slow and saw modest improvement which, encouraged me. I slowly built up the aggression.

I now conclude that the problem was the chamber since that's the only thing that made a difference. I am glad I tried it before I sent the whole thing to Pardini USA as they suggested.

If it starts malfunctioning again, I till take it to a smith and have the chamber resized.

[Jerry Keefer]

Now, correct the cause.. The firing pin should not touch the breech face..

[xeye]

Now, correct the cause.. The firing pin should not touch the breech face..

I can't see where it does. Pushing on the pin on the back of the bolt and looking at fp extension does not seem to be enough to touch the face.

also my chamber measures less than another poster's dimensions he supplied.

[j o danielsson]

Peening of the barrel by the bolt, or vice versa, happens with every 22 shot enough. It doesn't have to be the firingpin.

[xeye]

Peening of the barrel by the bolt, or vice versa, happens with every 22 shot enough. It doesn't have to be the firingpin.

OK, so if it's not the FP that leaves only the bolt? And how does one correct the bolt problem?

[Jerry Keefer]

The average .22 bolt face is counter bored approx. .290 diameter and average depth/headspace would be mid to high .040's..to accept the cartridge rim.. If the bolt face is peening over the chamber face, which would be in the low .220's in diameter, there is something wrong.. I have a Nygord Pardini that has been shot heavily over a period of 25 years and the chamber face is spotless.. S&W 41s usually exhibit heavy battering of both the chamber face and the bolt face from the excessive hammer pressure built into the system, but rarely require attention..

[xeye]

The average .22 bolt face is counter bored approx. .290 diameter and average depth/headspace would be mid to high .040's..to accept the cartridge rim.. If the bolt face is peening over the chamber face, which would be in the low .220's in diameter, there is something wrong.. I have a Nygord Pardini that has been shot heavily over a period of 25 years and the chamber face is spotless.. S&W 41s usually exhibit heavy battering of both the chamber face and the bolt face from the excessive hammer pressure built into the system, but rarely require attention..

The bolt face is machined to a depth of approx. .047 in

I couldn't get the jaws in there to measure the diameter of the recess.

IIRC the bore was about .223-.224 depending on the angle I measured it

I do not see any evidence of deformation on the barrel or on the bolt.

But when I swaged it I could feel a slight irregularity at one point of the rotation. That went away.

Could the extractor sliding forward into that groove repeatedly have moved the metal?

No, I don't know if the irregularity I felt was on the other side of the extractor.

I heard a rumor that there were some Pardini barrels that were "too soft". Any knowledge of this?

[Jerry Keefer]

I heard a rumor that there were some Pardini barrels that were "too soft". Any knowledge of this?[/quote]
No, I haven't heard that.
The extractor pushing thru the chamber wall is a possibility . It has been a common issue with some .22s

[fc60]

Greetings,

Pardini 22lr barrels of recent manufacture are averaging 36-40 HRC.

The same hardness has been recorded of their 32 ACP and 32 S&W Long barrels.

I was told that the 22lr barrels were experiencing throat erosion from the current offering of 22lr ammunition. The reason being, is that the ammo manufacturers are using a more erosive priming compound. Pardini seems to have addressed this issue by increasing the hardness of their current barrels.

Additional rumors indicated that the Eley ammunition manufactured in England does not have the erosive priming compound.

Cheers,

Dave in the Rumor Kave

[Dipnet]

xeye:
For gosh sakes, send your barrel to Pardini, describe the problem, and they will fix it.

That said, I bought a 5" barrel for my model 41 (made nearly 40 years after original A-series pistol with long barrel) and found the chamber to be tight (failure to extract), e.g., some fully inserted rounds would not fall out from a clean, inverted barrel. I used a worn out bronze brush, rubbed on jewelers rouge, chucked the cleaning rod tip in a drill and polished the chamber at low speed. I used a red string wrapped around the bronze brush to mark chamber depth and ever so very carefully polished the chamber. In my original clean 7.375" barrel, loaded rounds would fully seat and drop out when barrel inverted. I achieved the same results with the 5" barrel after careful polishing.

But call Alex Chichkov (813) 468-7500, explain the problem, and ask how fast they could turn your barrel around. I've heard of them providing >$300 of parts for free with no-cost service repairs. Who else does that? dipnet