Scope options for smallbore....

[zanemoseley]

I just sold my old CZ rifle and scope for $530, I have a couple months left on the layaway for my Anschutz LH 1907 in 1912 stock. I think I'm just going to take the money from my CZ to put toward a new scope. I'm not too shy of buying used if its a scope company with a bulletproof transferable warranty like Leupold or Vortex.

I know the Leupold EFR VXIII 6.5-20 is kind of the gold standard for smallbore rifles. Are there any others work looking at?

I've been looking a bit at the Bushnell Elite 4500 & 6500 and some options from Nikon.

[crankythunder]

Personally, I have not seen anything that compairs with the leupold 6.5 x 20 efr. I would not consider any other scope.

[Justin Credible]

Are you going to be shooting prone or position? For position shooting the 6.5x20 EFR is great, except for the crosshairs/dot are too small for holding a gun. But you can have that changed to something more useful for not shooting off a bench. The variable power is nice as you can dial it down for standing while the 20X is plenty for prone. For shooting gallery the EFR part is nice for bringing the focus in to 50'. If you are going prone only then I would look at the silhouette competition series from Leupold, I use the 25X and it is great. Big dot. Not too much power (more power is not more better). You can still use this indoors with a separate 50' adapter.

Justin Tracy

[beye]

If you are going to shoot the prone position in 100 yd. matches, 20X is barely sufficient. 24X is better for seeing your shots without having to resort to a spotting scope, which slows down your pace and allows more wind changes. I have tried about every scope in the 20X to 40X power range. I like 1/8 min. click adjustments and this narrows the field some. I don't find variables to be a hindrance in the prone position, so I have used Burris 8-32 Sig. scopes, 24X B&L (no longer in production) and the Weaver T-24; all have good clicks and optics are sharp enough. While I have tried the straight 36X scopes, it is sometimes too much power for the current mirage condition and sometimes too much power for my ability to hold that day. If your position shooting is limited to 50yd or 50M maximum, you will probably find that 20X works just fine.

[zanemoseley]

Sorry guys I should have clarified my use. I currently shoot 3P at 50 yards but my favorite position is prone so I may do some 50/100 yard prone matches. I'll probably just go for the Leupold with the fine plex reticle as it's close to what I had in the burris and was happy with it.

I shot a 395 in prone Sunday using my cz and my 14x burris, can't wait to see how I do with my anschutz and a 20x, I hope to see a 400 next year.

[WesternGrizzly]

Some people think I am nuts (including Justin Tracy, Nancy Tompkins, and Eric U) but I have always used a Weaver T36. Personally I only ever had a problem with the magnification the first time I shot with it, but I soon got used to it. That being said, I have never shot standing with a scope, but I have shot kneeling with the Weaver. If I was going to shoot anysight 3P more often I would get something variable for the other two positions.
I will admit that 36X is a lot, and if your hold isn't the size of the NRA Xring or smaller, you will have a rough time shooting with that much magnification.
But in all reality I don't think it matters that much, I once shot against Eric U while he was shooting a Leupold 10X with a 1MOA dot (seriously). The dot was so big it took up nearly the entire 10 Ring on the 50 yard target. He shot very well with it, and I don't think would have shot any better with a 24X or 36X.
Matt

[zanemoseley]

I went ahead and ordered the Leupold EFR 6.5-20 with the fineplex reticle for $675 delivered from Opticsplanet using their 10% sale. They also have a mail in rebate that gets me a $65 Leatherman if you order in October. I wasn't going to buy until Spring but I don't want to miss out on a free tool just keep the money for a few months.

[Justin Credible]

Some people think I am nuts (including Justin Tracy, Nancy Tompkins, and Eric U) but I have always used a Weaver T36. Personally I only ever had a problem with the magnification the first time I shot with it, but I soon got used to it. That being said, I have never shot standing with a scope, but I have shot kneeling with the Weaver. If I was going to shoot anysight 3P more often I would get something variable for the other two positions.
I will admit that 36X is a lot, and if your hold isn't the size of the NRA Xring or smaller, you will have a rough time shooting with that much magnification.
But in all reality I don't think it matters that much, I once shot against Eric U while he was shooting a Leupold 10X with a 1MOA dot (seriously). The dot was so big it took up nearly the entire 10 Ring on the 50 yard target. He shot very well with it, and I don't think would have shot any better with a 24X or 36X.
Matt

Matt,

We don't just THINK you're nuts, were pretty positive about it! I've been letting Reya use my 24X with a 1/2 MOA dot and she's a lot happier than with her old 36X tiny dot. I do agree though, the better your hold the better you can get away with high magnification.

Don't forget that Eric's scope also had 1/2 minute clicks. I don't know who forged that thing but they were probably rejects from Mount Doom. It's more about the indian than the arrow, or the scope mounted to the bow!

Justin Tracy

[dc.fireman]

If you are going to shoot the prone position in 100 yd. matches, 20X is barely sufficient. 24X is better for seeing your shots without having to resort to a spotting scope, which slows down your pace and allows more wind changes. I have tried about every scope in the 20X to 40X power range. I like 1/8 min. click adjustments and this narrows the field some. I don't find variables to be a hindrance in the prone position, so I have used Burris 8-32 Sig. scopes, 24X B&L (no longer in production) and the Weaver T-24; all have good clicks and optics are sharp enough. While I have tried the straight 36X scopes, it is sometimes too much power for the current mirage condition and sometimes too much power for my ability to hold that day. If your position shooting is limited to 50yd or 50M maximum, you will probably find that 20X works just fine.

This.

I began with a 20X Leupold, and then switched to an older, used Leupold BR24X with the small dot, and 1/8 min. adjustments. Once I learned to hold it correctly, I was very glad I did.

I had it repaired earlier this year, and Leupold honored the lifetime warranty, and fixed a few items needing attention. I'll NEVER by another brand of scope again.

-tc

[patriot]

For me it was an evolution. 12X --> 20X --> 30X --> 35/36X As the hold improved I wanted more magnification. All Leupolds for smallbore except for a NF on the mini-palma. No dots, my brain tries to recenter them when holding off. I also went with 1/8 MOA on the irons and scope; great being able to make small wind corrections or truly center the crosshairs.

Mark

[gwsb]

Grizzly I don't think you are nuts. Well at least in the choice of scope.

I used to shoot a Leupold 24x at 50 yd/mt and 36x at 100. Changing could be a pain but in addition to seeing better it also took away the necessity of changing the zero and focus.

[dc.fireman]

Actually, changing out scopes is as simple as using two of these (one for each scope):


http://champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx? ... item=ASR10

[BigAl]

Actually, changing out scopes is as simple as using two of these (one for each scope):


http://champchoice.com/store/Main.aspx? ... item=ASR10

I don't see why you would need to have the sight rail extension, unless it were a very long scope. Personally I have not need to use extension on any scope for the prone position. If you do need to use some forwards extension then you should only need one rail per rifle. I have never had any issues with return to zero when using normal 11mm/3/8 mounts. I have used mounts from Sportsmatch, as well as the numerous Sportsmatch clones, as well as BKL mounts. As long as you can reliably place the mount back on the same position on the rail, and most target rifles have enough scale marks on them to make that possible, you should return to zero. This is my standard procedure for both prone and BR, as I cannot put the rifle into the security cabinet with sights mounted, let alone a scope.

Alan

[patriot]

I don't see why you would need to have the sight rail extension, unless it were a very long scope.

Alan

Why? Because I have a short buttstock to get my hand close to the loading port and perhaps a long neck. An Annie is not scope friendly. Once the rings are on the rail, for smallbore, they stay put. If I need to adjust the eye relieve, as in 3P, I moved the rail. Some rails, like Carl's at Champion Shooters, return to zero. Some, such as the Anschutz factory rail, are hit or miss.

Mark

[Justin Credible]

I don't see why you would need to have the sight rail extension, unless it were a very long scope.

Alan

Why? Because I have a short buttstock to get my hand close to the loading port and perhaps a long neck. An Annie is not scope friendly. Once the rings are on the rail, for smallbore, they stay put. If I need to adjust the eye relieve, as in 3P, I moved the rail. Some rails, like Carl's at Champion Shooters, return to zero. Some, such as the Anschutz factory rail, are hit or miss.

Mark

I agree, I think most people need a rail on an Anschutz to get the proper eye relief with a scope... but maybe not everyone. I like the additional height it gives as well, it almost perfectly matches the height of my irons. As for repeatability, I have only used Anschutz rails, three of them, and they are all right on or, occasionally, require a click. That click could just as easily be the conditions or whatever.

Justin Tracy