Aftermarket Steyr AP Grips For Short Fingers?

[Gwhite]

I'm setting up an LP 50 for my wife, who has very small hands. I got a Steyr Extra Small grip, but the reach to the trigger is still about 8 or 9 mm longer than it should be to match her Pardini SP. I can shave off several mm by removing the trigger shoe entirely, but that is still not optimum (in several ways...)

I know there is only so far forward a small grip can sit and sit enclose the frame, but I'm wondering if anyone has tried a Rink or other brand of grip to get a bit closer to the trigger? I checked Nill-Griffe, and they only go down to a "Small" for the Steyr air pistols. Rink actually least lists down to XXS grips, but that doesn't necessarily mean they actually make them that small.

Thanks!

[m1963]

There was another competitor investigating this a while back. Their last post was in 2013. Not sure if they are still on the forum, however here is a link to the thread:

http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php ... nk#p149277

[Gwhite]

That earlier thread was for a P44, I believe. From looking at the XS grip on the Steyr, there isn't a lot of wood left between the web of the hand and the inner frame, especially if you make the frame cutout big enough to allow adjusting the pointing angle of the frame within the grip. I doubt there is room to pick up more than a couple mm, but that might be enough, especially if I also ditch the trigger shoe.

[seamaster]

Doug,

Does her hand parameter fit the smallest grip size?

http://www.maennel.at/?page_id=94&lang=en

[seamaster]

And she may also
1) shave off the present convex thenar prominence
2) add 7 degree angle at the back

http://www.formgriffe.de/en/shpSR.php?p ... 255&p3=369

I email Rink. He said that what he would do for short fingers.

[J R]

XS size Rink LP10E grip has about 5-7mm of material behind the frame cutout and about 2-3mm at corners of the cutout. I do not have correct tool to measure so it is hard to tell accurately.
Maybe the metal bracket can be removed to gain couple of millimeters, but this might have some implications on grip durability, or otherwise.

[Gwhite]

Doug,

Does her hand parameter fit the smallest grip size?

http://www.maennel.at/?page_id=94&lang=en

Thanks! I'd forgotten about Maennel. I'll get a ruler & check it out..

[Gwhite]

XS size Rink LP10E grip has about 5-7mm of material behind the frame cutout and about 2-3mm at corners of the cutout. I do not have correct tool to measure so it is hard to tell accurately.
Maybe the metal bracket can be removed to gain couple of millimeters, but this might have some implications on grip durability, or otherwise.

Thanks! I'll have to remove the Steyr grip & compare with your measurements to see if there is any excess wood that could be eliminated.

I'm sure I could put a thinner plate in place to seat against the screws. Another option would be to replace the flat head screws with set screws so the width of the screw heads could be eliminated. That should allow a bit more wood in the corners.

I think I will start with removing the trigger shoe & see what she thinks. I may be able to rig a very thin sheet metal shoe that will feel a bit better than just pushing directly on the trigger block. I can be exploring other grip options in the meantime.

[apron]

I have the exact same problem & experience with my short trigger finger , & have been struggling with this problem for almost 2 years. I shoot Steyr 10 & 10E. In late last nov , I bought 2 rink grips , I received them almost mid feb. No to mention further fitting the grip ; when compared to the original Steyr grips , the Rinks , as they are , are relatively smaller in all dimensions. While installing the Rink on to the 10E , I had problem fitting the Rink with the original Steyr setting screw , and then noticed that the set screw which came with the Rink is shorter , can you imagine. Anyway , I am happy with the Rink , it fits better on the LP10E. Incidentally , I am fitting the Rink on my LP10 today , will see.

[Gwhite]

Thanks! It sounds like a Rink will at least help. I took a close look at the fit of the Steyr grip, and there is actually a several mm gap behind the frame as it sits in the grip. This appears to be so you can tilt the grip to a steeper angle. If I removed the metal plate & did some careful whittling, I could move the grip forward maybe 3 mm without thinning the wood near the web of the hand. Buying a Rink grip sounds a lot simpler...

[apron]

Removing or whittling the metal plate , might create some woobling , pls be careful. Thinning the wood in the web would help , but a small amount , do it carefully , that area is thin. Some people totally take off the screws at the rear.

[rmca]

Gwhite

Before you start removing wood or getting new grips, there is a test you should perform.
Does your wife reach the trigger by holding the pistol without the grip, with the web of her hand directly on the frame of the gun?
If not, or if she barely does so, no grip how small it may be, will help.

This is more normal on juniors, but someone with very small hands is on the same boat.

Test that first.

Hope this helps

[Gwhite]

Removing or whittling the metal plate , might create some wobbling , pls be careful. Thinning the wood in the web would help , but a small amount , do it carefully , that area is thin. Some people totally take off the screws at the rear.

They warn you not to have the screws in too far, because then the pistol will clamp the back end of the velocity adjustment against the plate. After removing the metal plate, you'd need to relieve the wood for the velocity adjustment as well. Because the adjustment is round and isn't the full width of the frame, you could do that without thinning the wood in the corners. If you keep the grip angle towards the vertical, there's probably about 3 or 4 mm of rearward travel available before you would have to thin the wood in the corners. That said, it would take a lot of painstaking woodworking to accomplish.

I'm not sure, but the metal plate may also be epoxied in place. It has no fasteners, but seems to be fairly secure.

I help coach a college team, and it occurred to me they may have an extra small Rink grip in their collection. If so, I can borrow that long enough for a fit check & comparison.

[apron]

Trying on the Rink from your college team will answer my opinion on the fit. I think you will like it. Today , I put the Rink on the LP10 , with adjustment on the mid finger & overhang , it felt good.

[Gwhite]

The team had a small Rink grip in their collection, and it shortens the trigger reach by about 3 mm compared to the Steyr factory grip. In addition, the internal metal angle plate is fairly thick aluminum, held in place with a screw. If I replace it with thin steel, I can probably remove close to another mm. Without the trigger shoe, it's a pretty good fit as is. I'd like to have room to add at least a rudimentary trigger shoe, but that may be too much.

I did notice that the frame sits higher in the Rink grip. It shouldn't be a big issue when dealing with the light recoil.

I'll go ahead & order a Rink. When I get a chance, I'll take & post a couple photos.

[seamaster]

Rink with 7 degree angle and flat handle?

[Gwhite]

The Rink from the team is "standard" (i.e convex & 0 degrees), just Extra Small. It seems to fit her hand pretty well, the only issue remaining is the trigger reach, which is pretty close.

[jbaumhauer]

Rink with 7 degree angle and flat handle?

The 7 degree angle will take the pistol out of line with the arm, am I right?

[David Levene]

Rink with 7 degree angle and flat handle?

The 7 degree angle will take the pistol out of line with the arm, am I right?

Normally, yes. So does bending the wrist to line the sights up with the eye on a grip without the 7 degree angle.

Not everybody needs it, but some do. It depends on how you're made, how you stand and which eye you use.

[Gwhite]

I thought it was primarily intended for people who shoot "cross-dominant", i.e. dominant hand & eye are on opposite sides.