Trigger upgrade on 853 question ...

[DLS]

Sporter rules state:

Only factory manufactured parts designed for the specific model gun being fired may be used.

The Pilk trigger upgrade includes drilling and tapping a screw in the trigger guard. The same trigger guard is used on the 888, and it's already drilled and tapped. So it's an easy drop in replacement saving the cost of a tap and the hassle of drilling.

You can also drop in the 888 trigger components, they are better dressed than the 853 parts (the only difference I can see other than part number).

But technically it would be illegal, right? Because of the different part numbers I'm assuming.

Any comments?

I'm hoping that I don't need to mess with a drill and tap.

Thanks.

[jhmartin]

OK ... I'll walk out on this limb ...
Technically ... by the book, it's an illegal mod.

HOWEVER, CMP has a wide view in terms of interpretation ... the best place to ask that specific question is to email Katie Harrington or Brad Donoho of the CMP.

As an example, it is common to replace the screw in the trigger guard with one that is longer than the factory one ... we can justify that as it is allowed to put any length screw in for a x53 gun for the mod you are contemplating.

For all the hassle, it is not a hard or time consuming modificaton to do ... if you drill a 1/8 hole (slightly larger than a normal tap hole) into the plastic, a 6-32 machine screw will pretty much thread itself ... the plastic is actually pretty soft.
If you had the tools collected, you could probably do two of those mods in the time it took to compose & send the email ...

[DLS]

Thanks for the response, you provided me with one of those face slap moments! LOL

I didn't want to hassle with tapping a hole (don't have the tools or anyone to borrow from), but I didn't think about the guard being plastic!

Problem solved I'll just drill it myself and tap it with the screw.

Thanks again.

Lee

[DLS]

If you had the tools collected, you could probably do two of those mods in the time it took to compose & send the email ...

Hmmm .... well .... NOT!!!! LOL

I just finished up modding the trigger on my son's 853 and it went, pretty well all things considered. It probably took twice as long to get the barrel band, gap inserts and front stock screws aligned and installed as it did to do the whole rest of the mod. Even using a punch to line it all up .... ARRRRRGGGHHHH!

But, now the rifle has a 2-pound creep free pull, down from almost 9 pounds of gritty, creepy, grinding and noisy travel. My boy will have quite a learning curve to handle the new trigger so it will be awhile before I let him shoot it indoors in our living room "range".

I have a question for those of you who have done this (I did the mod found here on Pilk's site, as well as stoned the sear and hammer engagement surfaces.

1. If I pull the trigger with the bolt open, the bolt slams home. I don't recall this happening before, in fact I've probably not even tried this.

I've removed too much of something perhaps on the stud of the trigger lock part 853-18? Anybody know for sure?

It's not a problem if you follow the correct manual of arms, so I'll not be in any hurry to fix it as it will be some time before my boy is ready for matches and I don't relish dealing with that blasted front screw issue.

Any advise here would be appreciated.

I've already noted one disadvantage with the mod however. Prior, I could monitor my boys trigger control by ear. There were 5 distinct "sproing" sounds or popping noises as he eased the trigger back. I could tell he was gently adding pressure from these sounds ... not the trigger is silent. Oh well, I'll have to live with it.

Thanks again for any advice.

Oh PS, a neighbor had a tap so I borrowed that, it worked very well.