LP10E malfunctions after 800 shots!

[David Levene]

now both posts have gone!!!

There's still one there.

[Richathome]

Sorry I was trying to edit and get rid of the double post. I have had aboslutely no problems with the LP10E since the striker repair Dec 2011.

[therider]

Thanks David, it reappeared! :-)

So it seems LP10E has a recurrent problem! How nice for a 1800Euros toy!
I am already considering replacying LP10E and as far as I am concerned, also Steyr!

[Richathome]

Sorry I was trying to edit and get rid of the double post. I have had aboslutely no problems with the LP10E since the striker repair Dec 2011.

[therider]

This is the shot history for the last week or so.

This comment put me of track. I thougth you kept having problems. Now it is clear. Good that they solved completely! Hope the same happens with mine.

[Richathome]

I have had absolutely no problems with my LP10E since repair Dec 2011 and more than enjoy shooting the pistol. I'm certain they will resolve your problem and you will be enjoying your pistol also.

[brent375hh]

I have been shooting AP on and off since 1978. I have avoided Steyr since they came out due to the honest fact that they looked ugly to me. They have been winning for the last 20 years. The people I know who have them liked them, and the reliability that comes from a design that stands the test of time. I bought one last year. I still don't like the way they look, but I now know why they are so well represented in the winner's circle.

Before switching, think hard about the APs that have come and gone, and the ones that are still winning medals.

[therider]

Brent
I know that you are right, I am just disappointed at the moment. As long as they fix it for good.... :-)

[brent375hh]

Mine is mechanical, so I can't make any comments on the E model, but it seems like your problem is not trigger related.
Good Luck.

[therider]

Yes, my feeling is that the hammer does not hook properly when I cock

[django]

I use the steyr . Early last lp 1 lp10
While at the same brand steyr they have differences . Lp 1 is more easily mastered , lp 10 takes many years to master . Is it extrem se ? yes if you want value above 570 . Grip steyr lp 10 is very strange . It's never comfortable to grip . Maybe there is a special way in his descri . Refer way jin ( Korean shooter ) holds lp10 .

lp10 similar mechanic 47 ak , reliable . Part of its simple and sturdy . Some parts are interchangeable , when lp10 e out I want to buy . But undo . New products are usually full of technical problems . I'm not going to expend any money as guinea pigs to enhance their products . I 've tried lp10 E. Maybe if using the scores can go up 3-4 points . I prefer the e grip than lp10 lp10 .

I never bought the Walther lp400 . This product is really disappointing . Walther may be good at making guns , but less good at making air pistol . bolt fasteners that become advertising these products can be removed without changing the setting of a weapon be a point of weakness. I loose bolts , broken bolts and must make a new reply . Once done I sell it . These weapons have an accuracy that good . I shot a couple of times a score of 100/100 . But the durability of this weapon is weak , and I decided to sell it . I am professional shooter , i bought this weapon because this feature. I alway need make adjustment on every shooting range i compete But..it doesn't work..and i am dissapointed.

For the second weapon later I want to collect Otherwise yes matchgun Morini . I 've tried Morini . This weapon is very easy to be directed toward the target . While matchgun , I have not tried it , but I have a good feeling about this weapon .

Oh yes my practice with steyr lp10 score reaches 583
by Walther lp400 reached 572 , so i know what i am talking about.
everything manually .

[therider]

Grip steyr lp 10 is very strange . It's never comfortable to grip

I agree with your comment. However I drove to Parma to see Cesare Morini and had him to modify the original grip (see my post "the real Cesare Morini and his grips". It is now a dream, however due to the gun construction it still remains too thick in the web.

I never bought the Walther lp400 .... I am professional shooter , i bought this weapon because this feature. I alway need make adjustment on every shooting range i compete But..it doesn't work..and i am dissapointed.

Sorry, what feature are you talking about? Do you change the grip position at every competition?

For the second weapon later I want to collect Otherwise yes matchgun Morini . I 've tried Morini . This weapon is very easy to be directed toward the target . While matchgun , I have not tried it , but I have a good feeling about this weapon .

As I wrote in another post, I know a dealer who gets every single gun which he sells stripped apart, inspected and tested by an engineer. The result was that the Matchgun MGh1 is very well built, care in every little detail, and the pressure regulator is the most consistent which he has ever found on any pistol... This despite the negative reviews you find in the German magazines, which only glorify German pistols!

[FredB]

As if that were something new. Morini's been using a shoot-on-opening circuit since 1987 or so. If the Steyr LP10e trigger is built as well as my LP50e, good luck. That trashy piece of plastic ain't worth the paper the manual is printed on. If Matchguns had those kind of quality problems, everybody'd be shouting at them. With Steyr, it just can't be that bad, because the pistol cost a ton of money and some guy became world champion with it.

Tycho,

You've mentioned before your general disgust with the LP50e trigger. What specifically is (are?) the problem(s) with it? Does the LP10e use exactly the same plastic-cased unit, or are just the electronics the same? Or maybe nothing is the same?

Thanks,
FredB

[Tycho]

I'd guess the electronics are the same, but those are not the issue (except for their size). The whole e-trigger unit of the 50e - it can be dismounted, similar to the LP5 - is mounted on a piece of plastic that is so soft a 2 year old could chew through it in 2 minutes. So it doesn't stay in place except when you drive the screws literally through it, and, worse, it bends under pressure. The magneto is not strong enough, so to keep the pistol running, it's necessary to clean and grease the whole mechanical part of the trigger - which is more or less unaccessable inside the frame - every few weeks. Otherwise, it suddenly takes two or three trigger pulls to release the shot. And the functioning of the magneto / sear depends on the positioning of the plastic trigger unit inside the frame, which is not exactly defined - as said, it can move around. So you've got a system that has to be exactly fixated to work, but has to be taken apart every few weeks to make sure that it doesn't stop working. Made out of plastic, held in place by steel screws that have to be tightened really strong so that plastic doesn't move around. Too strong, it bends. Not strong enough, it moves. So, in the long term, you're f@#§d, as, one day, the plastic will break. Even the rail on which the trigger shoe is mounted is plastic... The trigger itself is not bad, when it works, but made so badly, it hurts. No wonder they stopped production of the 50e after a year. The guy who came up with this should be beaten regularly to restart the bloodflow to the brain.

From what I saw, the LP10e trigger is built directly into the frame, therefore probably solving 90% of my problems here.

[therider]

Gosh Tycho,
Reading your post during Saturday late morning breakfast ruined my mood!
I really hope that what you wrote does not apply to the LP10E!
:-)

[argus]

I can't comment on the LP50E as I have never seen one but I have heard of the same 2 or 3 trigger pulls problem on the LP10E. The solution I was told is to release the screw (78) that tensions the catch detent spring by half to one turn. (I wonder if insufficient tension on this same screw was the problem with therider's pistol?)

I have no idea if this same fix would work on the LP50E as I have not been able to find an exploded diagram. I suspect using grease (depending on type) however could be making things worse for you, particularly if it attracts any dust etc. and gums up which may be why you have to re-do it so frequently. Perhaps try something like a dry-molybdenum-disulphide-paste if you are not already using it after complete cleaning/degreasing of the metal components, which should be good for 12 months or more.

As far as having a plastic trigger housing with plastic internal components that is held in the frame by a single screw the LP10E is the same as what you describe for the LP50E. This was my biggest disappointment with the LP10E not that I've ever had a problem with it (touch wood) but I've always wondered about wear issues with steel set screws acting on plastic levers within the trigger assembly. I agree that the trigger assembly must be carefully positioned in the frame or it causes discharge reliability issues but at least on the LP10E there is a metal disc in the plastic trigger housing that the screw tightens down on to which holds it in the frame and helps locate the trigger assembly.

[therider]

Guys, you are ruining my w.e. with these encouraging infos! :-)
Any body interested in buying a 1 month old LP10E with Cesare Morini personalized hand grip??? ? :-)

I got scared when i adjusted the trigger position to my finger. The screw was really very tight and i could feel the plastic bending. When i tightened again I did not wat to use such a torque, but the trigger keeps moving.
It does not seem good to me, that to prevent trigger movements you have to thighten the screw with such a torque, particularly when all the stuff is made out of plastic!

Why the hell did they use plastic?

[Gerard]

I was not aware of the trigger having questionable plastic components and a potential wobble problem with the Steyr... but never really considered that pistol as I found it rather, well, ugly. Silly reason I know, but to me Steyr products are brutally ugly./ I was impressed with the quality in my Pardini K10 so moving to the K12 with its reportedly much better feeling trigger made sense. And I was not disappointed. The mechanical trigger is much improved with the K12. And to my eyes it's a nice looking pistol.

If I had a Steyr however, and found this plastic parts thing to be an issue, I would make metal parts to replace them. Are these complex parts? Most pistol parts can be made even with simple hand tools in my experience. Of course some skill is needed. Just saying, perhaps an option to consider.

[therider]

Gerard
I think that you cannot change them. There is a video in YouTube where they show how to replace the electronic trigger. It looks like as a single plastic piece. Also there would be no benefit in changing the plastic rod to which the trigger is connected, if this rod is then hinged in a plastic case.

Yeh, Pardini seems to be the favorite trigger at the moment.

[Gerard]

I just watched this official Steyr trigger replacement/adjustment video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvIa2bea0iQ
At 1:34 they point out that there is a "countersunk metal disc, against which the screw must be precisely positioned" - so it seems they've got something solid in there to lock in the trigger block. They further detail that "20 centi-Newton/metre" is the correct torque, or finger-tight in other words. It's a very small set screw, so I wouldn't risk tightening it much more through what appears to be a rather thin aluminum threaded portion. The risk of stripping the thread in the frame would seem obvious. I rather doubt that such a small set screw could cause that metal insert to fail inside the plastic trigger block. The threads in the aluminum would fail much before that. Then you'd have to re-drill to a larger size and thread for a larger set screw.

But before going that route, if your trigger is wobbly in the socket I'd suggest shimming, as from the looks of it that's about all you could do. Something like aluminum muffler tape should work if there is a sloppy fit in the pistol's frame. If that's not the issue, then I'm at a loss as to what sort of motion could be happening. Now that I've actually observed the Steyr approach to mounting the trigger it seems obvious that it either has to be a very snug fit or it will wobble, as the set screw being at the upper end of the block and the trigger being at the bottom present a leverage problem; the set screw is placed about 2cm up and 1cm behind the trigger, providing a fulcrum around which the finger pulling the trigger could potentially rotate the whole block if the fit were not quite tight. A second set screw or cap screw placed at the front of the unit, at the rounded front edge of the plastic insert, would seem to be a good bet for securing the whole trigger unit from moving. But of course I don't know how much aluminum there is vertically. Drilling and threading for a second screw to secure the trigger block would require detailed knowledge of the guts of the pistol in that area. It would also, obviously, void your warranty. But it might be something you could suggest to Steyr for future consideration, that a second set screw preventing this motion would be useful. Perhaps they'd even consider putting one in as a warranty service.