I'm curious if there's a point were I should consider having my Steyr LP1P professionally cleaned by a true air pistol specialist. (I wouldn't trust an air pistol to anyone other than a specialist). This would include a thorough once-over to determine if there are any other deficiencies.
My LP1P has about 40,000 pellets through it. I've periodically (and carefully) cleaned the bore, but I haven't performed any other maintenance. There's no indication that there's anything wrong, but is there a benefit to having such a check and cleaning after this many pellets have been through the bore?
I have no idea what the cost would be, but if it's worthwhile I wouldn't have any trouble with something on the order of $200 including shipping both ways.
AP pistol cleaning
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If your vehicle's engine was running well would you pull and tear it down to look for problems? Probably not, since you may actually cause problems by doing so.
The only exception to this that I can see are engines in racing vehicles, where a failure could cause the loss of an important race and the accompanying prize winnings. In this case you pretty much tear down the engine and return it to "new specs" each and every race.
So unless you are a professional shooter and don't want to risk winnings (wouldn't it be nice to be paid to shoot!) or a very high level shooter that doesn't want to risk losing a medal I would say leave it alone. Of course, you would have factory support if you were in this category and the question would be moot.
If you have kept the gun clean and properly lubricated during its life I would say shoot it until something fails, then at that time do a full tear-down, inspection and replacement of wear items such as o-rings.
The only exception to this that I can see are engines in racing vehicles, where a failure could cause the loss of an important race and the accompanying prize winnings. In this case you pretty much tear down the engine and return it to "new specs" each and every race.
So unless you are a professional shooter and don't want to risk winnings (wouldn't it be nice to be paid to shoot!) or a very high level shooter that doesn't want to risk losing a medal I would say leave it alone. Of course, you would have factory support if you were in this category and the question would be moot.
If you have kept the gun clean and properly lubricated during its life I would say shoot it until something fails, then at that time do a full tear-down, inspection and replacement of wear items such as o-rings.
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David Levene
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Northwestern AP
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- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:40 pm
The pistol is 14 years old. I have never replaced (or needed to replace) the seals.
One of my primary thoughts is if a professional bore cleaning would improve accuracy. I have occasionally had a shifting point of impact that I successfully addressed by a careful cleaning of the muzzle shroud. That makes me think that there's a leading issue that might benefit from a professional cleaning. Cleaning the bore of a target airgun always makes me nervous given the potential for damage, so I may well have more bore leading than I would like to have; and a professional cleaning may improve accuracy.
On the other hand I fully understand the "let well enough" school of thought and I appreciate the input.
One of my primary thoughts is if a professional bore cleaning would improve accuracy. I have occasionally had a shifting point of impact that I successfully addressed by a careful cleaning of the muzzle shroud. That makes me think that there's a leading issue that might benefit from a professional cleaning. Cleaning the bore of a target airgun always makes me nervous given the potential for damage, so I may well have more bore leading than I would like to have; and a professional cleaning may improve accuracy.
On the other hand I fully understand the "let well enough" school of thought and I appreciate the input.
"Professional" bore cleaning will use the same methods and materials available to you, such as JB Bore Paste or 'aggressive' felt cleaning pellets (the ones with bronze fibers embedded within). They are easy to use and won't harm the bore if you follow instructions.
If you need to scrub the bore with paste I would not use a rod on a .177 sized tube, it's far too difficult to keep from hitting the crown with the rod. Instead secure a patch in an overhand loop of monofilament fishing line, clamp the gun (in a padded vice or have a helper pin the gun down on a table corner while wrapped in something to protect the finish) and work the patch back and forth by holding the ends of the line. Wear gloves so the line doesn't cut your hands.
You will probably be fine with cleaning pellets, fire until clean and then fire a few every tin or so for maintenance. Just let the amount of leading be your guide. If there is a bit of roughness in the bore the paste or felts may help smooth it out in time, thereby reducing you fouling problem.
The only other thing a "professional" may do is to use and electronic cleaner, but that would require tearing the gun down completely as there in no real way to plug the back end of the barrel while assembled. If and when you do a teardown you could have this done, but it does nothing about the condition of the bore, and the leading will eventually return. If the fouling is really severe and the polishing does not work you can always replace the barrel, assuming you can find the part.
Either way, the gun is now dismantled so if it comes to this it would make sense to rebuild it all the way with new seals and such.
I hope this helps.
If you need to scrub the bore with paste I would not use a rod on a .177 sized tube, it's far too difficult to keep from hitting the crown with the rod. Instead secure a patch in an overhand loop of monofilament fishing line, clamp the gun (in a padded vice or have a helper pin the gun down on a table corner while wrapped in something to protect the finish) and work the patch back and forth by holding the ends of the line. Wear gloves so the line doesn't cut your hands.
You will probably be fine with cleaning pellets, fire until clean and then fire a few every tin or so for maintenance. Just let the amount of leading be your guide. If there is a bit of roughness in the bore the paste or felts may help smooth it out in time, thereby reducing you fouling problem.
The only other thing a "professional" may do is to use and electronic cleaner, but that would require tearing the gun down completely as there in no real way to plug the back end of the barrel while assembled. If and when you do a teardown you could have this done, but it does nothing about the condition of the bore, and the leading will eventually return. If the fouling is really severe and the polishing does not work you can always replace the barrel, assuming you can find the part.
Either way, the gun is now dismantled so if it comes to this it would make sense to rebuild it all the way with new seals and such.
I hope this helps.
I'd be tempted to get it serviced, but don't think it will make an iota of difference to the accuracy. That said they will replace things like the seals which should have a positive effect on the consistency / power output and they can of course chrono the gun to reset it to it's optimum velocity.
Servicing by our main dealer in the UK costs something like 80 UK pounds - so 100 ish dollars ??
Rob.
Servicing by our main dealer in the UK costs something like 80 UK pounds - so 100 ish dollars ??
Rob.
Depending which gun, felt "pellets" and q-tips (when I think about it!) Check cylinders once in a while for leaks - if they don't, shoot on.
In the case of SSPs like the IZH-46M, mine required a lubing every other week (silicon or 'pneumatic oil') or I would see a drop (not quite dramatic) in velocity akin to 1/2 ring.
That said, after 14 years, a once over might be a good idea - you know Murphy's law I'm sure.
In the true spirit of TT, I'd personally keep the 200$ and brew some beer!
In the case of SSPs like the IZH-46M, mine required a lubing every other week (silicon or 'pneumatic oil') or I would see a drop (not quite dramatic) in velocity akin to 1/2 ring.
That said, after 14 years, a once over might be a good idea - you know Murphy's law I'm sure.
In the true spirit of TT, I'd personally keep the 200$ and brew some beer!
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Northwestern AP
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 8:40 pm
AP cleaning
I thought that I'd follow-up on my post regarding questions about if some professional care would benefit my Steyr LP1P.
Well, the pistol must have read my post because it made my decision for me. About a week ago it began to fail to fire (click but no air) about 2/3rds of the time. Maybe the regulator, maybe a weak hammer string? But in either event it was not something that I was going to mess with.
It should have arrived at Pilkguns a few days ago with an order for a repair and rebuild. I asked them to check the velocity (which was 465 FPS a few years ago and has been falling since). The rough estimate for the rebuild seemed to be a bargain to me (I don't know if they'd want me to give the price since it was a very rough estimate).
I'm hoping that the pistol has its old magic when I get it back. The price seems like a small investment once every 14 years.
Well, the pistol must have read my post because it made my decision for me. About a week ago it began to fail to fire (click but no air) about 2/3rds of the time. Maybe the regulator, maybe a weak hammer string? But in either event it was not something that I was going to mess with.
It should have arrived at Pilkguns a few days ago with an order for a repair and rebuild. I asked them to check the velocity (which was 465 FPS a few years ago and has been falling since). The rough estimate for the rebuild seemed to be a bargain to me (I don't know if they'd want me to give the price since it was a very rough estimate).
I'm hoping that the pistol has its old magic when I get it back. The price seems like a small investment once every 14 years.
Just yesterday, the green breech o-ring split on my CO2 Match (LP1-P). So, I replaced both breech seals, for only the second time... Not bad for a 23 year-old pistol.
I'm now out of OEM green seals. But that's OK, since my local O-ring dealer has lots of 2m x 6m o-rings... maybe even the green ones. Don't know which material they are made of. (Wish Idid). It's nice that the breech and cylinder/frame seals are the same size.
I have five CO2 cylinders with my Steyr. One of them has a small leak. Otherwise, i've had great luck with it.
I'm now out of OEM green seals. But that's OK, since my local O-ring dealer has lots of 2m x 6m o-rings... maybe even the green ones. Don't know which material they are made of. (Wish Idid). It's nice that the breech and cylinder/frame seals are the same size.
I have five CO2 cylinders with my Steyr. One of them has a small leak. Otherwise, i've had great luck with it.
I feel not to do anything until it gives you some problem. But at the same time I feel that if you want to get it cleaned do it from some professional rather than doing it yourself.
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Last edited by FredSoly on Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
your original question was about cleaning the bore. Not sure what a "professional bore cleaning" with an air pistol would entail but understand your statement and would like to know the answer. Also, your gun is being serviced by Pilk. What if anything are they going to do with the barrel. I had once been told not to worry about cleaning the bore of an air gun- that it didn't matter or never really got dirty. Not sure if that is true and especially after 16 years. I think periodic light cleaning would prevent any buildup over many years.
Was doing some pellet testing at Winter Championships and was getting some wild variations in velocity (makes you think regulator). Was suggested cleaning the barrel might be an issue. I passed on the box of felts a vendor was trying to sell for $30 or $40 (bought some from Pardini USA for $8). Also heard some shooters don't like shooting the felts through because it could leave remnants. I guess even a patch could do that and wouldn't the first couple of pellets knock that out?
Seen many shooters use the patch on a pull cord and pull it through after every session. Was told to use normal Hoppes or other solvent on a patch and pull it through and then a dry one through every once in a while but not to get any solvent or oil or anything on the seals or anywhere other than inside the barrel. (Cord ended up being around $40) Is there a correct way to periodically clean an air gun and what is that way? Sure this is going to be subjective and maybe need its own posting.
Was doing some pellet testing at Winter Championships and was getting some wild variations in velocity (makes you think regulator). Was suggested cleaning the barrel might be an issue. I passed on the box of felts a vendor was trying to sell for $30 or $40 (bought some from Pardini USA for $8). Also heard some shooters don't like shooting the felts through because it could leave remnants. I guess even a patch could do that and wouldn't the first couple of pellets knock that out?
Seen many shooters use the patch on a pull cord and pull it through after every session. Was told to use normal Hoppes or other solvent on a patch and pull it through and then a dry one through every once in a while but not to get any solvent or oil or anything on the seals or anywhere other than inside the barrel. (Cord ended up being around $40) Is there a correct way to periodically clean an air gun and what is that way? Sure this is going to be subjective and maybe need its own posting.
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aurorapolice02_11
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 7:33 am
- Location: Denver, CO
Yes
Most of the upkeep you can do yourself with cleaning supplies and a low pressure air supply (canned air or compressor). Having Scotty or someone else go through it occasionally is not a bad idea, especially on older pistols. Seals are a big thing to look at. Unless you chronograph your pistol, you can never really know if there is a small leak or not.
I always liked having my equipment in top shape that way there was no doubt that it would perform well. It also let me know that any lack in performance was me and not the equipment.
Mike
I always liked having my equipment in top shape that way there was no doubt that it would perform well. It also let me know that any lack in performance was me and not the equipment.
Mike