Bolt difficult to operate on Match 54
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Bolt difficult to operate on Match 54
I recently purchased a Match 54 Anschutz and when I close the bolt it is very difficult to lock. I have been told that it might be with different ammo being seated in the chamber. The bolt is difficult without any ammo being loaded. I have thoroughly cleaned lubricated all parts and see no visible wear. Any suggestions?
Brigbill,
your bolt should operate smoothly. Yes cartridge length can affect bolt closure, as some brands are longer than others, but also if the factory barrel has been replaced. The gunsmith may have cut the chamber shorter than the factory, so the bullet has to be pushed further into the rifling. This may be compounded by a tighter headspace.
As 'Dude suggested, check that you have the right bolt for your action. These are individually matched to an action at the factory; the barrel is fitted before the bolt, so different length handle sections are used to set the headspace. Swapping bolts is a bit of a lottery, it may work, but then again it may not.
Next, you say you have lubricated the bolt. This really just needs a wipe with a lightly oiled rag after use (as much to remove bullet grease and firing residue as for lubrication), and a dab of grease on the cocking cam (the notch in the bolt handle section), although this helps with opening more than closing. A little grease on the front and rear of the locking lugs will help though. Have you also cleaned the breech? If you have not already done so, remove the barrel/action from the stock to remove and clean the loading tray.
Then I would check the position of the trigger. The holes for the fixing bolts deliberatly allow a little fore-aft movement. If your trigger has been set too far to the rear it will make it harder to close the bolt. Try loosinging the trigger bolts a fraction and tapping the mechanism forward. Close the bolt with every movement to check. You want to see the cocking indicator pin stay still as the bolt closes. If it jumps backwards the trigger is too far back (so the firing pin is pushed back once it transfers from the cocking cam to the sear).
Finally I would check the bedding bolts. The rear bolt can intrude in the bolt raceway if it is too long, or if the stock has been compressed by overtightening the bolts. Remove the bolt from the action and look into the raceway, if your can see the bedding bolt protruding, back it off a little, and then reinsert the bolt. It ought to be easier to close. Although you will now have to file the bolt down, or deal with the bedding issues.
Tim
your bolt should operate smoothly. Yes cartridge length can affect bolt closure, as some brands are longer than others, but also if the factory barrel has been replaced. The gunsmith may have cut the chamber shorter than the factory, so the bullet has to be pushed further into the rifling. This may be compounded by a tighter headspace.
As 'Dude suggested, check that you have the right bolt for your action. These are individually matched to an action at the factory; the barrel is fitted before the bolt, so different length handle sections are used to set the headspace. Swapping bolts is a bit of a lottery, it may work, but then again it may not.
Next, you say you have lubricated the bolt. This really just needs a wipe with a lightly oiled rag after use (as much to remove bullet grease and firing residue as for lubrication), and a dab of grease on the cocking cam (the notch in the bolt handle section), although this helps with opening more than closing. A little grease on the front and rear of the locking lugs will help though. Have you also cleaned the breech? If you have not already done so, remove the barrel/action from the stock to remove and clean the loading tray.
Then I would check the position of the trigger. The holes for the fixing bolts deliberatly allow a little fore-aft movement. If your trigger has been set too far to the rear it will make it harder to close the bolt. Try loosinging the trigger bolts a fraction and tapping the mechanism forward. Close the bolt with every movement to check. You want to see the cocking indicator pin stay still as the bolt closes. If it jumps backwards the trigger is too far back (so the firing pin is pushed back once it transfers from the cocking cam to the sear).
Finally I would check the bedding bolts. The rear bolt can intrude in the bolt raceway if it is too long, or if the stock has been compressed by overtightening the bolts. Remove the bolt from the action and look into the raceway, if your can see the bedding bolt protruding, back it off a little, and then reinsert the bolt. It ought to be easier to close. Although you will now have to file the bolt down, or deal with the bedding issues.
Tim
Last edited by Tim S on Fri Aug 16, 2013 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
On a different note......Take the bolt apart. Hold the bolt in a vertical position and drop the firing pin in from the top. See if the pin hangs up or rubs. If good, it should drop cleanly to the bottom point. If not, the spring may be binding and may need turning/adjusting to be completely straight. I dryfire a lot and what you describe has happened to me.
Dennis L
Dennis L
Bolt binding on closing and opening are different beasts.
If it is on closing, many of the things mentioned by Tim S apply. You can can start by taking the action out of the stock, strip the trigger, loading tray and extractor hooks. If the problem persists the problem is with the bolt or the clearance between the bolt and rear face of the barrel.
Now, rough on opening, this is often wear and fretting on the cam that pulls the firing pin back. Take the bolt apart and look at the slotted area in the base of the bolt handle, that is angled at about 45 degrees. If this area is rough that is the likely source of not smooth on opening. Serial number does not by chance end in X? That would be "16xx" transition series. There were some metal hardening problems in the bolt during those years to make this problem kind of common.
Next you can check both for dirt or wear down in the locking grooves in the receiver, but i have never seen that on an Anschutz.
'Dude
If it is on closing, many of the things mentioned by Tim S apply. You can can start by taking the action out of the stock, strip the trigger, loading tray and extractor hooks. If the problem persists the problem is with the bolt or the clearance between the bolt and rear face of the barrel.
Now, rough on opening, this is often wear and fretting on the cam that pulls the firing pin back. Take the bolt apart and look at the slotted area in the base of the bolt handle, that is angled at about 45 degrees. If this area is rough that is the likely source of not smooth on opening. Serial number does not by chance end in X? That would be "16xx" transition series. There were some metal hardening problems in the bolt during those years to make this problem kind of common.
Next you can check both for dirt or wear down in the locking grooves in the receiver, but i have never seen that on an Anschutz.
'Dude
We were having the same problem on two 54 actions that my daughter shoots. I mentioned it to the gunsmith who had re-barreled one of the rifles. I was thinking maybe he had the headspace really tight. He told me to loosen the screws for the trigger and push it all the way forward and retighten the screws. I did, and the bolt now closes easily, loaded or unloaded. He did mention if there were any issues with the gun functioning to experiment with moving the trigger back slightly. Both of ours functions well with the trigger fully forward.
-
Martin Catley
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 4:19 am
- Location: New Zealand
- Contact:
Bolt
Mr Bradley if your Bolt binds with too much pressure it is odds on that the bedding Bolt is too long and catching on the Bolt.