Who sells complete bolts for Mod 54 actions?
Do 1813 bolts fit these actions?
Anschutz Mod 54 Bolt availablity
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
I am starting to wonder about the number of Anschutz receivers out there in need of a bolt. Are these things getting lost in the washing machine, along with the socks or what?
Anyhow, this topic was covered about a week ago.
http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?t=31660
You will have to find a smith that does Anschutz stuff to have the bolt specifically fit for headspace. The 18xx/19xx bolt will fit any M54 receiver but you have to have the right trigger to go with it.
Just kind of grabbing numbers, depending on the Euro and labor costs, a bolt and trigger is likely in the $600+ range
'Dude
Anyhow, this topic was covered about a week ago.
http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?t=31660
You will have to find a smith that does Anschutz stuff to have the bolt specifically fit for headspace. The 18xx/19xx bolt will fit any M54 receiver but you have to have the right trigger to go with it.
Just kind of grabbing numbers, depending on the Euro and labor costs, a bolt and trigger is likely in the $600+ range
'Dude
The CMP is selling them as just the action and barrel. Not bolt, trigger, stock. Prices are very inexpensive, but are only a deal if you can find a bolt used at a reasonable price. I got lucky as I was early to ask and found a spare. I'm sure by the time the CMP is out of these that spare bolts will be even harder to come by.
Aftermarket bolts? For German target rifles?
OK, individually the parts to an Anschutz bolt are not that complex and someone with access to the appropriate machine tools with respectable knowledge of materials could probably make a functional bolt. Functional yes, durable (as in capable of 10s of thousands of cycles) maybe.
However, for the rifles to maintain their accuracy (assuming the barrels are good) the bolt has to be hand fit to each action for proper head space. Screw that up and at best the bolt won't close or the rifle will group like a shotgun. Other problems can be high misfire rate or even dangerous bursting cases.
Unfortunately, you cannot just start producing Anschutz bolts without the final hand fitting step.
There are also some release lever differences so the various series 14xx, 16xx, 18/19xx need to be matched to an appropriate trigger.
Really, there is a reason that the Anschutz bolt face is stamped with the last three digits of serial number of the rifle it was matched to and it was not just entertainment at the factory.
Probably best to just lay out the $$$ for the genuine OEM parts.
'Dude
OK, individually the parts to an Anschutz bolt are not that complex and someone with access to the appropriate machine tools with respectable knowledge of materials could probably make a functional bolt. Functional yes, durable (as in capable of 10s of thousands of cycles) maybe.
However, for the rifles to maintain their accuracy (assuming the barrels are good) the bolt has to be hand fit to each action for proper head space. Screw that up and at best the bolt won't close or the rifle will group like a shotgun. Other problems can be high misfire rate or even dangerous bursting cases.
Unfortunately, you cannot just start producing Anschutz bolts without the final hand fitting step.
There are also some release lever differences so the various series 14xx, 16xx, 18/19xx need to be matched to an appropriate trigger.
Really, there is a reason that the Anschutz bolt face is stamped with the last three digits of serial number of the rifle it was matched to and it was not just entertainment at the factory.
Probably best to just lay out the $$$ for the genuine OEM parts.
'Dude
Dude,
I love a callenge.
If the OEM part was priced right, I would buy it.
Most of the CMP actions are Mod 54 without bolts and triggers. Price $250-$300+tax.
The price that I have on a new bolt is almost twice that!
So if someone that knows the best bolt to use as a pattern, please advise.
Also what trigger should I get?
I love a callenge.
If the OEM part was priced right, I would buy it.
Most of the CMP actions are Mod 54 without bolts and triggers. Price $250-$300+tax.
The price that I have on a new bolt is almost twice that!
So if someone that knows the best bolt to use as a pattern, please advise.
Also what trigger should I get?
You would want to use a 19xx series bolt as a pattern, that is the most recent M54 bolt. To match that you would want a 5018 trigger. 5018-L for left hand and 5018-D if you like single stage. There are other numbers if you like heavier triggers.
Last year it became apparent the cocking cam on my old 16xx series prone gun was flat worn out. I replaced the bolt and and trigger with 19xx series stuff for about $600 all fitted and complete. Now, my 'smith has since turned in his paperwork for working on firearms so maybe you can't find that price anymore but a bolt and trigger plus the work to get the bolt fit for $600 did not strike me as too terrible.
Have you actually talked to Champions Choice or Pilkington? If my list is correct they are US repair centers for Anschutz Target Rifles.
Cheers,
'Dude
Last year it became apparent the cocking cam on my old 16xx series prone gun was flat worn out. I replaced the bolt and and trigger with 19xx series stuff for about $600 all fitted and complete. Now, my 'smith has since turned in his paperwork for working on firearms so maybe you can't find that price anymore but a bolt and trigger plus the work to get the bolt fit for $600 did not strike me as too terrible.
Have you actually talked to Champions Choice or Pilkington? If my list is correct they are US repair centers for Anschutz Target Rifles.
Cheers,
'Dude
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Hillbilly327
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 6:41 am
- Location: TN
Matching bolt and trigger for Anschutz 54 cmp action
Hi, I got one also sn 685xx. Thought it would be fun to put one together. Does anyone know a source for a matching bolt and trigger? Some gunsmith out there can make some quick bucks if he/she gets into the business.
Anyone know where the code is for the year of manufacture?
Thanks
Anyone know where the code is for the year of manufacture?
Thanks
I saw those action/bbls last time I was in the store and thought to myself, "WTH is CMP doing with the bolts?"
Are they getting the actions & bbls w/o them? Or are they hoarding them like the sights to sell separately? Or, is someone in the back making "bolt sculptures"?
Maybe get on the CMP forum and ask .... seemed odd to me and just never thought to ask when I was in the store.
Are they getting the actions & bbls w/o them? Or are they hoarding them like the sights to sell separately? Or, is someone in the back making "bolt sculptures"?
Maybe get on the CMP forum and ask .... seemed odd to me and just never thought to ask when I was in the store.
Hillbilly,
A 5 digit serial number starting in 685xx is going equate to 1969 or 1970.
This was a true 14xx rifle. If the barrel has a tapered cone about 3/4 inch long in front of the receiver it is a "standard" barrel, if it comes straight out and does not taper down it is a heavy barrel.
The bolt that would go to this would be one with a square back and the wing safety sticking off the left side of the bolt. The matching trigger would be a 1407-U9 for the two stage trigger and 1408D-U1 for the single stage trigger. If you look around occasionally you will see one of these triggers for sale. The tough part is going to be finding a period appropriate bolt, then if you do getting the head space correct. (You may find a bolt with head space good enough to be safe but the barreled action won't be very accurate)
Unless you care to spend lots of time looking, or get lucky, the path of least resistance is likely to update to the newer 19xx bolt and appropriate trigger. To put the trigger on the newer 14xx actions you may have to mill a tiny notch in the bottom of the receiver to clear the pivot pin on the release lever. There are a few ways to work with that problem.
Good Luck
'Dude
A 5 digit serial number starting in 685xx is going equate to 1969 or 1970.
This was a true 14xx rifle. If the barrel has a tapered cone about 3/4 inch long in front of the receiver it is a "standard" barrel, if it comes straight out and does not taper down it is a heavy barrel.
The bolt that would go to this would be one with a square back and the wing safety sticking off the left side of the bolt. The matching trigger would be a 1407-U9 for the two stage trigger and 1408D-U1 for the single stage trigger. If you look around occasionally you will see one of these triggers for sale. The tough part is going to be finding a period appropriate bolt, then if you do getting the head space correct. (You may find a bolt with head space good enough to be safe but the barreled action won't be very accurate)
Unless you care to spend lots of time looking, or get lucky, the path of least resistance is likely to update to the newer 19xx bolt and appropriate trigger. To put the trigger on the newer 14xx actions you may have to mill a tiny notch in the bottom of the receiver to clear the pivot pin on the release lever. There are a few ways to work with that problem.
Good Luck
'Dude
Even more interesting, the extractor pin rests at exactly 6 O Clock on the Anschutz bolt face so you would have to figure to either move the extractor or put the firing pin at more like 4 or 8 O Clock.
Then as Tim S points out, there really isn't very much material left on the bottom side of an Anschutz bolt face in which to place a firing pin tunnel so you are faced increasing material there and reducing or moving material on the loading tray, which would likely create other difficulties.
Not saying this could not all be done but the number of issues that would need to be addressed would cause me to wonder if such a project would be worth the effort, past the warm and fuzzy feeling of being able to say "I did it myself".
Cheers
'Dude
Then as Tim S points out, there really isn't very much material left on the bottom side of an Anschutz bolt face in which to place a firing pin tunnel so you are faced increasing material there and reducing or moving material on the loading tray, which would likely create other difficulties.
Not saying this could not all be done but the number of issues that would need to be addressed would cause me to wonder if such a project would be worth the effort, past the warm and fuzzy feeling of being able to say "I did it myself".
Cheers
'Dude