Hello,
I have a scatt but cannot get it to match up a 10 ring hold with my rifle with a 10 ring score on the software. I have tried calibration multiple times but to no avail. I shoot 50m prone so this is an issue. Actual training distance ia at 4 to 5 meters. Anyone have suggestions on a solution? Thanks for any help.
ABoyd57946
SCATT calibration problem: suggestions?
Moderators: pilkguns, m1963, David Levene, Spencer, Richard H
Not sure exactly what the problem is, are you saying the shots on the system dont match reality ? If so then as Rutty says, try reducing the f-coefficient. We set it at 25 for prone rifle, but you can shoot a set of shots on it and adjust and see what the results change to. It is one of the parameters that you can adjust and see the effect immediately on an already shot set of shots.
Rob.
Rob.
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Guest
Hello Rob/all,
The shots on the screen don't match reality. For example when I turn on the audio feature for blind shooting the scatt indicates a 10 ring hold when in reality I am holding a 7 or worse. Yes that happened once.
Re F coefficient I will try that. Good idea and I will start at .25. What does the F Coefficient do in the software?
The shots on the screen don't match reality. For example when I turn on the audio feature for blind shooting the scatt indicates a 10 ring hold when in reality I am holding a 7 or worse. Yes that happened once.
Re F coefficient I will try that. Good idea and I will start at .25. What does the F Coefficient do in the software?
I 'think' F-coefficient effectively extrapolates the point of impact from the last bit of movement (speed and direction) and predicts where it thinks the shot would have landed. Suggest you just try a range of values and see what looks right (0, 10, 25, etc).Anonymous wrote:Hello Rob/all,
The shots on the screen don't match reality. For example when I turn on the audio feature for blind shooting the scatt indicates a 10 ring hold when in reality I am holding a 7 or worse. Yes that happened once.
Re F coefficient I will try that. Good idea and I will start at .25. What does the F Coefficient do in the software?
I would also stick with what you need for your prone shooting. I don't know how the blind shooting aspect works on scatt, so don't rely on that giving you the right feedback. You can for example see if you have a 10-ring hold from the parameter outputs, 10 or 10a I think they are listed under. When you look at the individual shot data (i.e. the screen you see whilst shooting).
Rob.
Re: SCATT calibration problem: suggestions?
We have one at my Club and it seems to need a few tricks to make it reliable. I have come at these through trial and error but recently I have looked at the Scatt website and found the first two mentioned in their FAQ section.Anonymous wrote:Hello,
I have a scatt but cannot get it to match up a 10 ring hold with my rifle with a 10 ring score on the software. I have tried calibration multiple times but to no avail. I shoot 50m prone so this is an issue. Actual training distance ia at 4 to 5 meters. Anyone have suggestions on a solution? Thanks for any help.
ABoyd57946
First is shimming the front unit to get it to point a bit further down. I find that I need use a couple of layers of paper at the front of the clamp to get it to calibrate at all. This gets a more central strike during the "adjust optical sensor" procceedure.
Second is interference from reflections off the floor, or perhaps other surfaces. The Scatt site suggests putting a low barrier half way between you and the target to shadow these. I have used mats and bits of fabric to deaden the surface. - For me the performance of the scatt can also be room dependent. it works best in my shed with a rough concrete floor but can be troublesome inside the house with polished boards.
We have also had problems when using lights to illuminate the target which then create hot-spots in the field of view. the sensor then looses calibration during a session as things warm up
Small changes in the sighting distance also seem to be another way of dealing with the interference, but I think these also depend on other factors such as the reflectivity of the surfaces between you and the target.
Good luck with it
Rory
Hi
I had similar problems with my scatt when i first got mine, ten ring hold but shots not landing where they should be. They used to be recorded in and around the 6-7 ring at between 7 and 4 o'clock .My setup between sensors was about the same as yours. It wasn't until i increased the distance to 7 meters that i got more reliable results.
Whilst it is nice to see the shots being recorded in the middle as its a good confidence builder, if the groups are consistently in the same place and are of a good shape i wouldn't be overly worried as scatt is an analytical tool and i think the traces and statistical data is more help
I had similar problems with my scatt when i first got mine, ten ring hold but shots not landing where they should be. They used to be recorded in and around the 6-7 ring at between 7 and 4 o'clock .My setup between sensors was about the same as yours. It wasn't until i increased the distance to 7 meters that i got more reliable results.
Whilst it is nice to see the shots being recorded in the middle as its a good confidence builder, if the groups are consistently in the same place and are of a good shape i wouldn't be overly worried as scatt is an analytical tool and i think the traces and statistical data is more help
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Guest
shim for scatt sensor
tried shimming sensor works fine needs fine tuning.afterthinking about it this would be slightly different for other brands or models. it is to correct for barrel taper. used electrical tape folded in half then taped on to repeat sensor location and to protect barrel
I have been confused by the cooments here.
1. The calibration shot need NOT be in the exact center of the inner calibration ring. It just needs to be in there somewhere. The software then ASSUMES that you aimed and pulled the trigger while exactly centered on the target downrange. For example, if your calibration shot was a bit left of the center of the real target (NOT CALIBRATION SCREEN) then the software will assume that that was a 10.9. Subsequent shots on the sighting target (Yellow triangle in upper right corner) will be right of where they are expected.
2. You can always put the cursor over the most recent shot on either the sighting or competition target, click and hold left mouse button, and then drag the shot to move it to where you expected it to be. Just like moving your sights which also works like normal. The click and drag fine tunes the "calibration adding and or subtracting from the initial setting and relacing it with the new setting.
If the barrel is tapered then a little shimming might be helpful, but it does not need to be perfect.
4 meters is probably too close, you need at least 5 meters between the sensor and the target, not your eye and the target.
1. The calibration shot need NOT be in the exact center of the inner calibration ring. It just needs to be in there somewhere. The software then ASSUMES that you aimed and pulled the trigger while exactly centered on the target downrange. For example, if your calibration shot was a bit left of the center of the real target (NOT CALIBRATION SCREEN) then the software will assume that that was a 10.9. Subsequent shots on the sighting target (Yellow triangle in upper right corner) will be right of where they are expected.
2. You can always put the cursor over the most recent shot on either the sighting or competition target, click and hold left mouse button, and then drag the shot to move it to where you expected it to be. Just like moving your sights which also works like normal. The click and drag fine tunes the "calibration adding and or subtracting from the initial setting and relacing it with the new setting.
If the barrel is tapered then a little shimming might be helpful, but it does not need to be perfect.
4 meters is probably too close, you need at least 5 meters between the sensor and the target, not your eye and the target.