AP trigger first stage position?

Lior · Post by **Lior** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:41 am

Dear shooters,
Last week I repositioned my LP400's first stage position from its factory setting, of about 40% of the trigger's movement track / pressure to about 90% so that the first stage would end just as the shot breaks.
In my first week this made training easier as I had less squirming with the trigger break. But in a match today I felt that I had become conditioned to the point that getting through the first stage and releasing the shot had become difficult. Am not sure which way to continue.

Where do you set the first stage of your triggers? Any input would be welcome.

Best, Lior.

Richard H · Post by **Richard H** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:07 pm

I take it you're talk the 1st stage travel?

Trigger adjustments are very personal, my usual suggestion to those I coach is especially those starting out, and assuming the trigger makes weight and is reasonably set up is to leave it alone. Most new shooters don't know what they like and will spend tons of time chasing trigger adjustments in search of magical points.

Personally I would set it up with some travel in the first stage and about 460-480 grams, this leaves about 50 grams for second stage, 510-530 gr total weight I set the stop with a little after travel, some like no after travel. I find a little travel helps with follow through especially on the electronics where it's really just sprint weights your pulling against and you don't get the force drop off.

If you're relatively new I'd set it somewhere reasonable and use it for a period of time (months) get use to it and just make adjustments when needed. If you can try some other peoples pistols you will quickly learn what you like and don't like.

Another thing be careful setting the trigger to any of the limits ie like no over travel if your too close the trigger will not function or become inconsistent.

lastman · Post by **lastman** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:33 pm

Hi Lior,

Although trigger settings are a personal preference kind of thing, I'd suggest not to have a second stage that is too light.

Reason being is that when you are nervous you can lose track of where you are on the trigger and be more advanced than you think leading to shots that break quite early.

My trigger is set with about 100g-150g on the second stage.

What you really need to be doing is working on a smooth development of your trigger until it breaks (and beyond) rather than masking possible problems, because they will pop up again.

Good luck

jbshooter · Post by **jbshooter** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 11:22 pm

What do you think of your new LP400 in general?

Lior · Post by **Lior** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:09 am

jbshooter wrote:What do you think of your new LP400 in general?

An interesting gun.
Pros: inherently accurate, very adjustable, nice loading gate / rammer, little recoil, excellent weight and balance, nice trigger.

Cons: difficult to avoid supination (rotation of gun axis towards the weak side), adjustment screws must be tightened often, rust protection necessary, air leaks from cylinder while connected to gun (might be remedied by greasing threads).

In my last match I felt that the target lighting glare / sight halo was almost unbearable, even while using a brown filter. A poor front sight picture (difficult to judge relative height of sights) translated into slow trigger work (500 grams have never felt so heavy!), vast numbers of aborted shots and a small number of poorly executed ones. Closing my Varga iris/ shutter eliminated much of the glare but left very little light to acquire the front blade. Tips here would be welcome.

Fred Mannis · Post by **Fred Mannis** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:59 pm

I have found that a polarizing filter works well in bright light glare conditions - at least for outdoor shooting. I have never experienced that level of glare indoors. You might try carbon soot from a flame on your sights to reduce reflections.