Morini vs. Rink grip putty

antispar · Post by **antispar** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:08 am

I need to modify my AP grip. There are two specialised putties, Morini and Rink. Does anyone has experience with both of them?

Rover · Post by **Rover** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 1:57 pm

Don't get too excited about them. You can pick up a tube of Aqua-Mend at Home Depot for $7(?).

Jack Milchanowski · Post by **Jack Milchanowski** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 3:42 pm

or Quickwood at Lowes.

Brian M · Post by **Brian M** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 4:44 pm

I think I used Elmers wood putty, still ~$5 though (and still in place 4 years later).

jipe · Post by **jipe** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:54 pm

Any idea of the effect of the regular contact of these nice chemical with your palm skin ?

I guess that none of these products is made to be regularly put in contact with the human skin for a long time !

Brian M · Post by **Brian M** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:28 pm

jipe wrote:Any idea of the effect of the regular contact of these nice chemical with your palm skin ?

I guess that none of these products is made to be regularly put in contact with the human skin for a long time !

MSDS sheets are simple to find:

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/msds/260927.pdf

Section 11 is what you're after.

Seems like sanding without a respirator would be the only major issue. Thankfully I applied with a latex glove while 'wet' and the excess just squeezed out. Used it uncovered for 3 years, now it's covered in a texture paint finish.

Seriously, the "hazard" of putting this stuff in your palm is FAR less than the 'hazard' of breathing, or just plain living (radiation). kinda funny you're trying to make a point of buying some uber expensive, has to be mail-ordered, putty as a health hazard. Thanks for the chuckle. :)

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:26 pm

I had used Quickwood and Mohawk epoxy putty. Results are good.

But I had my best experience using Sugru. This stuff is simply ingenious! Perfect color, super easy to mold, super easy to stipple, super easy to shave. Contact safe. This stuff is fun to use on the grip, as well as tinkering all around my house.

www.sugru.com. Best stuff bar none, IMHO

v76 · Post by **v76** » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:17 pm

+1 on Sugru. Only downside to me are that you have to use it within 6 months and that it's kind of expensive compared to epoxy, bondo and etc.

I've also used Kwikwood with good results but it may require a bit more work after molding.

jakuda · Post by **jakuda** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:21 am

+1 sugru.

Orange+Black makes a brown color.

ken4all · Post by **ken4all** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 2:51 am

Fimo, available in all colors, even different shades of brown.
I'm using it for the moment to change my free pistol grip.

GaryN · Post by **GaryN** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 12:54 pm

When my grip was modified, the gripmaker used a 2 part putty type epoxy from Ace Hardware.

antispar · Post by **antispar** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 1:49 pm

Many thanks for replies. I'll definitely stay away from Morini (35 Euro for 125 ml) or Rink (13 Euro for 30 ml) putties. There are, obviously, equally good and more economic options to those two.

LukeP · Post by **LukeP** » Tue Nov 29, 2011 3:38 pm

ken4all wrote:, available in all colors, even different shades of brown.
I'm using it for the moment to change my free pistol grip.

How do you make changing to hard? became hard as classic wood putty? attached to the grip at 110*C?

ken4all · Post by **ken4all** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:20 am

I just hang the complete grip with a metal coathanger in the oven at 110°C for 30 minutes.
It's only after cooling that it hardens, so take it out the oven and hang it somewhere to cool down.
Works great.

ghostrip · Post by **ghostrip** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:40 am

There is also an air drying version of FIMO, an air drying version with lighter weight and an microwave version. Only drawback is number of colors (light version has 6 colors, basic air has 3 colors). I used the basic air version for another project and it holds quite well. I haven't used it in a grip project because i don't know how well it will cure when parts get a bit thick.

LukeP · Post by **LukeP** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:26 am

ken4all wrote:I just hang the complete grip with a metal coathanger in the oven at 110°C for 30 minutes.
It's only after cooling that it hardens, so take it out the oven and hang it somewhere to cool down.
Works great.

Thank you very much, i'll give it a try. how about finger feeling? how is the surface when it hardens: pleasant or too lucid?

LukeP · Post by **LukeP** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 2:26 pm

Thanks Ken4all, good Fimo advice! Works Great!
Gave it a test today, here the result. Nice feeling and cheap, grip not suffered from 110° exposure, fimo hardened as wood.
.

Gerard · Post by **Gerard** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 2:33 am

A couple of months ago I used a bit of Sugru to increase the hump in the middle of my palm. Just quickly cleaned with alcohol (maple grip, linseed-based rubbed oil finish) and applied the Sugru, shaping with my hand until about right, then stippling quite finely using a wire wheel rolled gently over it until satisfyingly even. On testing it the next day the fit was excellent and I was happy for a short while. But then I noticed that it became slightly slippery after a while of shooting due to hand sweat. The wood grip doesn't. It's only a thin layer, maybe 3 of 4mm at peak and feathered out to zero where it blends with the wood. Might take it off again sometime and try again... but this time using some carbide or other grit material mixed into the Sugru to counter that slipperiness. It's not exactly slippery, but that bump in the grip really is important to me in opposing the finger pressure along the front of the grip, and even the slightest sensation of the beginning of a slip is distracting.

Tycho · Post by **Tycho** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:05 am

If somebody's interested - I know where that Morini stuff comes from, and it's MUCH cheaper in its original form - you only have to buy it a ton at a time, they don't do retail... :-D But I like it quite much for the small stuff, as it doesn't really get that hard, unlike acrylic stuff or so. But you can't build structural parts from it, for that you need fiberglass...

antispar · Post by **antispar** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 3:12 am

Luke, is that the Morini trigger blade (for long finger) on your LP?