Help stripping a Morini 162ei

Muffo · Post by **Muffo** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 3:54 am

Can some1 tell me how to remover the block that holds the cylinder on. Google doesnt want to be my friend today

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:07 am

I believe that it is just screwed on.

I seem to remember that some, including my original one, were perfectly smooth. They were therefore extremely difficult to remove when servicing the regulator. They were prone to surface damage.

Mine was replaced with one that has (from memory) 2 blind holes to take a "C" spanner.

Muffo · Post by **Muffo** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:11 am

cheers mine has those to wholes and i thought this might have been the case but i put a lot of pressure on it and it didnt move, il try a bit harder

David Levene · Post by **David Levene** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:25 am

You might want to wait to see if anyone else has any comments, just in case there are any tips to make it easier (other than use a longer "C" spanner).

ISSFFP · Post by **ISSFFP** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 4:26 am

Check the link below or the manual that comes with the AP, it has the exposed diagram so that you can follow in dissembling the pistil.

http://www.morini.ch/download/2.pdf

Sc0 · Post by **Sc0** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:20 am

To strip down a Walther LP201 I had a local shop fabricate a pin spanner. It was 1/2" thick steel 1/2" wide and 5" long, the pins used were "Hardened" rods and were a slip fit in the handle. With this tool it possibly took less than 10 minutes to strip the pistol down. I think the cost of the tool was $35.

With the proper tools it makes things alot easier and prevents damage.

Muffo · Post by **Muffo** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:39 am

No luck yet i might need to get a c spanner made that fits exactly

chuckjordan · Post by **chuckjordan** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:47 pm

Also make sure there is no compressed air inside the reg. that internal pressure will also make it difficult to open.

Muffo · Post by **Muffo** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:41 pm

Next problem, how do you remove the cocking handle. is it just a matter of undoing the allen key bolt. I put an allan key in and tried to turn it but couldnt move it. I put enough pressure on that it twisted the allan key and didnt want to go any further

nc513 · Post by **nc513** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:19 am

Regarding the cocking lever, an experienced gunsmith told me, a few years ago: "Don't do it! The threads in the body of the gun are short and you never know what sort of glue they have used. If you use excessive force to unscrew that screw, the threads in the body might just follow along with it!".

It would be interesting to get a second opinion on this... (Yes, I did indeed leave that screw alone).

Muffo · Post by **Muffo** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 8:39 am

Hmm maybe i might have to give a gunsmith a ring. Im trying to strip it back to just a bare block for a couple of reasons. I want to refinish the surface as it has some sort of corrosion that is slowly getting worse and worse, It sa almost made my serial number unreadable and i want to get it measured up and have an exact copy made without any of the working parts so i can put my grip and trigger in the non working block and use it to dry fire with

David M · Post by **David M** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:26 pm

Have you tried the old trick of heating the screw with a soldering iron. If a locktite has been used , it will usually break its grip.

RandomShotz · Post by **RandomShotz** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:56 pm

I've been following this thread for a while - I also have a Morini 162 EI. I've taken the loading lever screw out before - I don't remember if I had to heat it the first time (I think I did) but I had to use low strength LocTite to reassemble it or it would work loose very quickly. There haven't been any problems getting apart since then. I use the low strength stuff on all sorts of tiny screws and it works well as long as the parts are properly degreased beforehand.

I am curious, tho' - I assume that by "refinish" do you mean re-anodize. What kind of corrosion are you looking at? And why would you want to make a non-working block - the Morini can dry-fire safely as it is?

Roger

Muffo · Post by **Muffo** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 4:51 pm

No i hadnt thought of using a soldering iron i had only thought of heating it with an oxy and i wasnt game. I just got selected for the Australian army shooting team and this will require a few months a year where i dont have access to my air pistol plus other army trips as well. having this much time without being able to train isnt conducive to the development of my shooting so if i have something that i can dry fire at nite with will be a big help. Il make something that goes on the front that gives me the same sight radius and weight but doesnt look like a barrel. As for the corosion Il post up a pic tonight Its sort of like white rust

ronpistolero · Post by **ronpistolero** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 4:06 am

Hi Muffo.

Air pistols are difficult to get by in the Philippines. So repairing it ourselves is key. I am helping a friend repair his leaking Morini 162 (ca. early 2000 I believe). I am trying to remove the regulator via a c-span but couldn't unscrew it inspite of considerable effort. I saw this thread. Albeit 5 years old, I was wondering if you were successful in removing it. Was the regulator sealed via some form of glue or loctite or the like? Any tips on removing it?

Hoping for a quick reply

Ron

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