some aftertravel or zero aftertravel?

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seamaster
Posts: 645
Joined: Sun Jan 16, 2011 6:24 pm

some aftertravel or zero aftertravel?

Post by seamaster »

Today, practicing my AP, shot 30 shots in 9's without a single 10.

It looks like the pellet just bounce off 10's into 9's. Not a single 10. I was thinking if I just spray my pellets in 9 ring randomly, on the average 20% should be 10's.

So I am thinking, is this due to my recent setting of aftertravel to zero ( barely before the trigger locks up with aftertravel tightening).

Am I experience some type of "kick" with tight aftertravel?

Most people advised zero aftertravel in this forum. A few recommended some aftertravel to avoid "kick" from trigger hitting the stop.

I am now leaning to having some aftertravel. Please convince me it is still a good idea to have zero aftertravel.
BEA
Posts: 282
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:34 pm
Location: Va

overtravel

Post by BEA »

I think having no overtravel can be a bit hard on the hammer/sear because it causes the two bearing surfaces to rub as they move past each other. If the overtravel is too tight, it might also effect the trigger wt.
AK Pistol
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 1:10 am

Post by AK Pistol »

Seems logical that if you made a change and then your results go downhill, then perhaps that was not a performance enhancing change. If 30 shots is all you have taken that may not be enough of experimental time but if the poor results continue, going back to the original setting would seem appropriate. Have you changed anything else that would explain this?
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RandomShotz
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Location: Lexington, KY

Post by RandomShotz »

If BEA is right and there is friction between the sear and trigger, might that also increase lock time?

On another note, I am still a beginner with competition pistols; I have a TOZ 35M and an IZH 46M that I am learning to shoot. The Izzy is set up with ~510 g trigger and near zero overtravel. The TOZ is set up with a very light trigger and I don't think it has any way to set a stop. When I shoot the TOZ, I press the trigger until it goes off and don't consciously try to pull through any further. With both pistols, my visual follow thru is good - I hold for at least a couple of seconds and usually have a good idea of how well the shot went by where the sights end up (and 30 consecutive 9's is well beyond my capabilities).

So these are two radically different trigger setups. Can they both be right? Is this making the learning curve unnecessarily difficult?

Thanks

Roger
william
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Post by william »

Only one thing is certain. The more you think about it the more it will hurt your technique.
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RandomShotz
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With Apologizes for Hijacking the Thread ...

Post by RandomShotz »

OK, I get it - "No Stinkin' Thinkin'. " And I am pretty good at not thinking - just ask my ex.

But if someone is trying to learn to drive and alternates sessions between a standard shift and an automatic, he may have one heck of a time getting proficient with either. And avoiding trees.

I am just wondering if the similarities between the two pistols are reinforcing, or if the differences are something I should not be dealing with until I have some level of proficiency with one or the other.

Resuming non-thinking mode now.

Roger
ronpistolero
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:36 am
Location: Philippines

Trigger overtravel

Post by ronpistolero »

Squeezing technique. Maybe you squeeze the same way I do. My ultimate waterloo is that I don't have a smooth squeeze, the kind that you see on the ISSF videos where you will never notice the pistol going off except when you hear the sound, or when they bring down the gun after firing. When in those few times I squeeze the way it should be done, the gun doesn't move at all and it's as if the tolerance for sighting errors grows so big. So take notice of how you squeeze.
Just my two cents worth. Happy shooting.
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Fred Mannis
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Re: With Apologizes for Hijacking the Thread ...

Post by Fred Mannis »

RandomShotz wrote:OK, I get it - "No Stinkin' Thinkin'. " And I am pretty good at not thinking - just ask my ex.

But if someone is trying to learn to drive and alternates sessions between a standard shift and an automatic, he may have one heck of a time getting proficient with either. And avoiding trees.

I am just wondering if the similarities between the two pistols are reinforcing, or if the differences are something I should not be dealing with until I have some level of proficiency with one or the other.

Resuming non-thinking mode now.

Roger
Both cars have a steering wheel, brake and gas pedal. The principles of driving are the same for both - a little more complicated perhaps with the manual shift. Same with the AP and FP, with the biggest difference being the method of propelling the projectile.
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