Hamerlli 280 help

[220]

Have decided to upgrade my pistol and the idea of a 22/32 conversion appeals due to the limited time I get to spend on the range.
Was thinking about SP-20 but research tends to sujest a late model 280 would be a better choice.
Only concern is the reports of early models shooting the 1st shot high with the 32. How easy is it to tell an early model from a later one?
I assume serial numbers would run from start to end of production anyone know from what serial number on the issue was addressed?

[Tycho]

Extremely easy: 1st and 2nd series, the upper part was held to the frame by two bolts in front, and one screw through the mag-well. 3rd and 4th series - pistols that usually work very well - have one screw below the barrel instead of the two bolts, and the screw through the mag-well. The absolutely latest 280 had the alu-housed trigger unit from the SP20, which is inferior to the steel housed 280 units from 3rd series, so I'd avoid that.

[220]

Thanks Tycho

So if I was to look at the gun from the muzzel end there would be no boltheads visable on 3rd or 4th series. On the 1st & 2nd series there would be 2 bolts below and slightly to the sides of the centreline of the barrel?

[Tycho]

Exactly - no boltheads, but a 4mm allen screw head on 3rd / 4th series.

[fc60]

Greetings Tycho,

You are obviously well versed in the 280. Would you kindly describe what changes took place from version one through version four?

With kind regards,

Dave

280 Owner

[Tycho]

I'm not the specialist for the 280, there are others more savvy. Used to shoot one, though, for two seasons, and saw some problems others had. 1 to 2 was more or less just a change of the trigger unit, as they had some problems with light strikes. 2 to three was the big re-engineering from snap-tight to screws, because of the first shot problem. 4 is a evolution of 3 - I'm not even sure Hammerli would know what you're talking about, but I've seen 280s with the trigger unit of the SP20, with the alu housing, so those must be the absolute last series. They put together everyting they had left, as surprisingly some people preferred the 280 to the early SP20 and demand suddenly hit a late small peak. Don't ask me about serial numbers - I have good documentation what chaos that discussion leaves in the 20x series, and I know how Hammerli / SIG used to work, so that won't work anyway. Posting serial numbers will only lead to a lot of people yelling that they've got a pistol that doesn't match the specified number range... :-)

[fc60]

Greetings Tycho,

Thank you very much for the history of the 280. I have a 280 and have experienced first shots with the 32 placing high on the target, way off call. Is this similar to the issue you described?

Otherwise, the 280 has been my most reliable pistol with regards to functioning since I bought it in 1994.

I also have an SP-20 with the "cheesy" Aluminum trigger housing. The original broke at the 3mm retaining pin. In the interim, I machined two holes in a 280 steel trigger housing to enable me to keep shooting while I saved up enough money to get the broken housing replaced with a duplicate "cheesy" housing.

Cheers,

Dave

[orionshooter]

Can anyone provide an explanation for the first round going way high phenomena we seem to be encountering with the .32??

[brakarzac]

Can anyone provide an explanation for the first round going way high phenomena we seem to be encountering with the .32??

As someone who has now owned 4 Hammerli 280 kits, I can honestly say I have not personally encounted this phenomena. That is not saying it doesn't happen, as I have heard from top shooters in Australia who also report this happening.

One issue if I remember correctly, is the barrel twists a bit for the first shot to resettle it into position. Another problem that has been reported, and may not happen in the colder shooting ranges, but having direct sunlight on the pistol has a tendacy to push shots out and change the group pattern too.

cheers

[Tycho]

The problem seems to be that in the 1st/2nd series, the barrel is held in position only by the screw in the mag well and by a spring pushing against the slide cover. There are several explanations for the 1st-shot-throw, the most common being that the extraction force for the first shot varies from the following shots due to the dirt in the chamber oxidizing during the break between series. On the other hand, I've seen 280s shooting the first shot chronically low, which doesn't fit this theory. But everybody seems to agree that the barrel bedding is the main problem, since this was cured in the 3rd series. It wasn't even a .32 - only problem, the .22 had this, too.

[kristopher24]

I'm new to shooting and just bought my first Hammerli 280. It's a 32 that came with a 22 conversion, but I'm having trouble getting the 22 on. It's one of the older models with the boltheads below the barrel and the only manuals or stripping instructions I can find are the ones that show how to strip the models with the screw below the barrel. I've loosed the magazine screw but have no idea what the next step is.
Any help would be greatly appreciated from this newbie.

[fc60]

Greetings,

I have the early model like yours.

1) Pull back the bolt/slide and lock it open.

2) Fully unscrew the locking screw in the magazine well.

3) With your thumbs, place one in the ejection port and the other at the rear of the top assembly.

4) Push forward with both thumbs and the top end will now release.

To Install...

Locate the top end into the receiver and simultaneously press down and rearward.

Cheers,

Dave

[kristopher24]

Thanks so much for the help!