Hi,
I have a Match 54 Prone Rifle which I recently bought from a club member. I noticed there is a lot of creep on the trigger. It is more like a 2 stage trigger but the release weight is too low after taking up the slack.
I don't think it is meant to be 2 stage, but rather a single stage with a problem.
Where the arrow is pointing is a threaded part of the trigger with no screw in. This means the mechanical part of the trigger which actually releases the sear has an air gap which gives the slack movement. If you look through the hole is half obscured where the bit which releases the trigger is pushed back.
I found a screw (M2?) and fitted it but now the trigger won't cock.
Using different size allen keys in the hole I found that the perfect spot was around 3/4 of the hole diameter pin.
Clearly that's not possible when in the stock and I don't think an undersized pin put in place is a particularly safe or reliable solution. Is there a way I can adjust the trigger to work with the screw in place?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt
Match 54 Trigger
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
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barrowmatt
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 3:27 pm
- Location: England, UK
Match 54 Trigger
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- Trigger
I would be leery of home made fixes. Neal Stepp at ISS is a ninja at any Anschutz trigger. Our host Pilkguns may also have a remedy, maybe shoot him an email.
Older style triggers seem to be for sale often. You may want to put a wanted add in the classifieds, or upgrade to a newer style. In the "best wishes theme", please be safe and do it the right way. Good luck.
http://www.iss-internationalshootersservice.com/
Older style triggers seem to be for sale often. You may want to put a wanted add in the classifieds, or upgrade to a newer style. In the "best wishes theme", please be safe and do it the right way. Good luck.
http://www.iss-internationalshootersservice.com/
This is a 60s to early 70s vintage single stage trigger.
The blade itself has either been straightened or was early enough so it was just made rather straight. The last versions of these the trigger blade was pretty much a semi-circle.
What is missing is the tapered screw that goes in from the right side of the assembly. The first lever in this trigger is a two-piece assembly and the tapered screw set the sear engagement by how much the first lever pressed on the second lever.
With the proper screw adjustment was pretty simple. Back the screw off, cock the action. turn the screw in until the firing pin is released, back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn and you are done.
As noted talk to Neal Stepp (link provided) or perhaps Chuck Gartland at Gartland Precision http://www.gartlandprecisionllc.com/index.html They should be able to help you track down the proper needle point screw.
This trigger might be too early for the back travel adjustment but on the later models there is also a screw and a stop nut that goes perpendicular through the trigger blade just below the housing that would adjust (limit) back travel.
'Dude
The blade itself has either been straightened or was early enough so it was just made rather straight. The last versions of these the trigger blade was pretty much a semi-circle.
What is missing is the tapered screw that goes in from the right side of the assembly. The first lever in this trigger is a two-piece assembly and the tapered screw set the sear engagement by how much the first lever pressed on the second lever.
With the proper screw adjustment was pretty simple. Back the screw off, cock the action. turn the screw in until the firing pin is released, back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn and you are done.
As noted talk to Neal Stepp (link provided) or perhaps Chuck Gartland at Gartland Precision http://www.gartlandprecisionllc.com/index.html They should be able to help you track down the proper needle point screw.
This trigger might be too early for the back travel adjustment but on the later models there is also a screw and a stop nut that goes perpendicular through the trigger blade just below the housing that would adjust (limit) back travel.
'Dude
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barrowmatt
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 3:27 pm
- Location: England, UK
Thanks, that explains it perfectly. I just found a set screw and tried that which is clearly too much.justadude wrote:This is a 60s to early 70s vintage single stage trigger.
The blade itself has either been straightened or was early enough so it was just made rather straight. The last versions of these the trigger blade was pretty much a semi-circle.
What is missing is the tapered screw that goes in from the right side of the assembly. The first lever in this trigger is a two-piece assembly and the tapered screw set the sear engagement by how much the first lever pressed on the second lever.
With the proper screw adjustment was pretty simple. Back the screw off, cock the action. turn the screw in until the firing pin is released, back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn and you are done.
As noted talk to Neal Stepp (link provided) or perhaps Chuck Gartland at Gartland Precision http://www.gartlandprecisionllc.com/index.html They should be able to help you track down the proper needle point screw.
This trigger might be too early for the back travel adjustment but on the later models there is also a screw and a stop nut that goes perpendicular through the trigger blade just below the housing that would adjust (limit) back travel.
'Dude
I'll try to find the correct screw, i'll see if there are any donor rifles at the club, I know there are a few rifles waiting to be scrapped but I think they may be BSAs.
I will avoid a DIY pin fix as I realise it isn't safe and when the result could be a rifle which fires when the bolt is closed I won't be taking any chances.
Thanks again for the speedy and detailed information.
Matt