To clean the barrel or not???
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
Fixing it when its not broken?
I say clean it when you discover the frequency of the evil flyers that start to creep into the group. Cleaning to often can cost you more ammo waiting for the barrel to return to the tuned POI. Not to mention 10s!
Just my experiences thus far!
Just my experiences thus far!
Fixing it when its not broken?
I say clean it when you discover the frequency of the evil flyers that start to creep into the group. Cleaning to often can cost you more ammo waiting for the barrel to return to the tuned POI. Not to mention 10s!
Just my experiences thus far!
Just my experiences thus far!
I used to not bother too much about cleaning my Anschutz - keep the muzzle/crown clean and the bolt, extractors and loading ramp too, but scrubbing the bore? Not really.
Then I was made aware of how the powder residue is Hygroscopic (attracts water) which might possibly lead to rust spots or pitting in the bore during storage.
Now I put a patch or two down to remove the residue after shooting.
That works for me so far...
YMMV.
Then I was made aware of how the powder residue is Hygroscopic (attracts water) which might possibly lead to rust spots or pitting in the bore during storage.
Now I put a patch or two down to remove the residue after shooting.
That works for me so far...
YMMV.
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- Location: Canada
Re: Go with the Best.
Your statement suggests rimfire and CF guns should be subject to the same cleaning regime? May I ask why? Rimfire involves lots (60shot matches, etc) of soft lead bullets, high-power involves relatively few hard, jacketed bullets, which have a different effect on the barrel, leave different fouling compounds, etc, etc. That different solvents are required goes without saying, but it does not follow that the same level or regularity of cleaning is required between different types of rifle.BartP wrote:The best smallbore marksmen in the world - the guys and gals at the top if the ISSF rankings - CLEAN THEIR BARRELS meticulously.
The best benchrest marksmen in the world - CLEAN THEIR BARRELS meticulously.
The best highpower shooters - CLEAN THEIR BARRELS meticulously.
There are a few holdouts, of course. But you can see the trend.
Bp
FWIW, we all know rimfire barrels need some warmers down to build up a certain level of fouling before they really come on song - 5-20 rounds is the commonly quoted number. The mantra I have always lived by is "fouled not filthy", and my cleaning regimen wavers between monthly and weekly dependent on how much shooting I am doing - i.e. loosely based on barrel count.
This is open to flexibility of course - if I shoot out in the pouring rain or the rifle gets damp for some other reason, then obviously the whole lot comes apart and thoroughly dried to ensure no moisture gets trapped in and around the bedding/action.
Likewise, if I try some different ammo, I will likely clean before and after using it, and of course cleaning regimes should be matched to the ammunition since some are dirtier than others (the level of fouling provided by ammunition is not inversely propertional to price either!).
Rimfire barrels need to be fouled, and accuracy will tend to improve with fouling. However, at some point, the barrel will become so filthy that accuracy will drop off, and there is no way to predict what this point is.
Top ISSF shooters clean their barrel every time not because a clean barrel is neccesarily the most accurate barrel, but because it is an exactly known quantity. They have batch-tested clean, and because they have spent £2000+ on a Lilja or Bleiker barrel, they know it will hold the tightest of groups with just a few fouling shots - they are in a position where they are definitely the weakest point, not the equipment.
It is better to go in to a major match with a highly accurate barrel that will behave in a known manner (and do it's job if you do yours), than to go with an even more accurate pre-fouled barrel that could potentially choose that moment to degrade and start throwing flyers half way through your Olympic Final.
I would also contest the idea that you cannot clean a rifle too much. Of course this then leads into the question of the cleaning regime, but it is entirely possible to damage the crown or bore through inappropriate cleaning methods.
Last edited by Hemmers on Tue Nov 09, 2010 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I once had a good Anschutz barrel almost detroyed by not cleaning properly.
While it was new, the barrel was a killer producing 10-11 mm groups with selected ammo. I took good care of the rifle, cleaned it after very session with solvent and patches.
But then, after a year or so, accuracy started to drop off. Couldn't understand why. We found the reason when we slugged the barrel. It had a pretty big lead build-up in front of the chamber. Just using solvent, wasn't enough.
So, I had it lead-lapped by a gunsmith. And after that, the accuracy came right back. My scores went from mid/high 580's with 30* avg, to +595 with 40*, just like that.
Now, I'm using a brush (brass) directly after every session, two strokes (from breech only!) while the barrel is still warm. Then, just a path with solvent, and clean it out with dry patches. Doing this, I have not had any more lead build ups, and the accuracy is still there two years after that lead lapping.
While it was new, the barrel was a killer producing 10-11 mm groups with selected ammo. I took good care of the rifle, cleaned it after very session with solvent and patches.
But then, after a year or so, accuracy started to drop off. Couldn't understand why. We found the reason when we slugged the barrel. It had a pretty big lead build-up in front of the chamber. Just using solvent, wasn't enough.
So, I had it lead-lapped by a gunsmith. And after that, the accuracy came right back. My scores went from mid/high 580's with 30* avg, to +595 with 40*, just like that.
Now, I'm using a brush (brass) directly after every session, two strokes (from breech only!) while the barrel is still warm. Then, just a path with solvent, and clean it out with dry patches. Doing this, I have not had any more lead build ups, and the accuracy is still there two years after that lead lapping.
I am follower of cleaning regularly. I clean after every time i shoot. The method that I use is fairly light.
2 patches with kroil
dry patches till no more kroil can be seen
Then about every 1000-2000 rounds I will clean with a Nylon brush to make sure to get the lead ring out. I may invest in a bore scope so I really know when its gone.
I come from a High power background and in that sport you MUST clean after every match for both accuracy and for function.
I would also like to note that Lones Wigger cleans his bore after every 40 shots.
Rick Curtis cleans his bore after every match.
I have seen tests that show that a slightly fouled barrel shoots best. Not one that has 5000+ rounds in it. Thats why I clean lightly. I dont want to take all the wax out of the bore.
Matt
2 patches with kroil
dry patches till no more kroil can be seen
Then about every 1000-2000 rounds I will clean with a Nylon brush to make sure to get the lead ring out. I may invest in a bore scope so I really know when its gone.
I come from a High power background and in that sport you MUST clean after every match for both accuracy and for function.
I would also like to note that Lones Wigger cleans his bore after every 40 shots.
Rick Curtis cleans his bore after every match.
I have seen tests that show that a slightly fouled barrel shoots best. Not one that has 5000+ rounds in it. Thats why I clean lightly. I dont want to take all the wax out of the bore.
Matt
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There are places to use a nylon brush...like in centerfire. You get your solvent into the bore and let it do its work.
In rimfire you need to mechanically remove the lead. I have yet to find a solvent that actually removes or dissolves lead. The best I've seen are some that soften the lead up some so it comes out a little easier with a bronze brush.
Eric U
In rimfire you need to mechanically remove the lead. I have yet to find a solvent that actually removes or dissolves lead. The best I've seen are some that soften the lead up some so it comes out a little easier with a bronze brush.
Eric U