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In its theory section, recommended some overtravel after 2nd stage trigger break.
For my LP10, is it a good idea to have some overtravel?
I have been shooting with zero overtravel previously. I thought zero overtravel is the classic coaching.
zero aftertravel or some aftertravel
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If you are pulling the trigger straight to the rear, there shouldn't be a "kick" when the weight changes or you hit the stop.
The bottom line is: when you dry fire, does the pistol move? If it doesn't, then your setup is fine. If it does, you have to figure out why. Problems with the trigger stop are WAY down the list of things that will cause significant motion.
The bottom line is: when you dry fire, does the pistol move? If it doesn't, then your setup is fine. If it does, you have to figure out why. Problems with the trigger stop are WAY down the list of things that will cause significant motion.
My belief is that the trigger stop should be engaged so that trigger "stops" after the shot has fired.
If the trigger travels any distance past the shot release point it "may" interupt follow through and smooth trigger press.
The trigger stop is there to stop the trigger "collapsing" after the shot has broken. You can still have first stage and second stage, but after travel is not advisable (in my opinion) in precision events.
Free pistol is difficult to have a stop but with such a light trigger there is really no need for this. Mainly in Air Pistol and Centre/Fire Sports Pistols.
www.pistol-shooting.com
If the trigger travels any distance past the shot release point it "may" interupt follow through and smooth trigger press.
The trigger stop is there to stop the trigger "collapsing" after the shot has broken. You can still have first stage and second stage, but after travel is not advisable (in my opinion) in precision events.
Free pistol is difficult to have a stop but with such a light trigger there is really no need for this. Mainly in Air Pistol and Centre/Fire Sports Pistols.
www.pistol-shooting.com
Now that would obviously depend on your pistol, too. Some guns actually need to have the trigger stop engaged, otherwise the trigger won't work or the gun will "double" (i.e. early series MG2). Other pistols don't have a trigger stop at all, and let the trigger "run out" against a spring (my LP50e comes to mind). I have both types in my current "arsenal", and to tell the truth, it doesn't make any difference, as long as the trigger doesn't collapse. A good shot needs a clean, straight pull, and what happens afterwards with the trigger finger is IMHO completely irrelevant, as long as I keep up the right muscle tension and do a controlled trigger release when the sights have recovered.
I agree with the above, although if one has a pistol with a slow trigger group lock time and or a slow velocity combined with an aggressive trigger pull then there may be a problem.A good shot needs a clean, straight pull, and what happens afterwards with the trigger finger is IMHO completely irrelevant,
Shooting Standard Pistol with the precision series with a pussyfoot trigger finger then the rapid fire series with a more aggressive trigger finger action combined with a trigger stop that is set at minimum clearance may produce startling results
I remove the trigger stop screw completely or back it out the max. I then try to increase my precision trigger finger action and slow the rapid action to level the playing field , as the saying goes
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