Hi, I recently sold my LP10 after using it for about a year. In practice I was able to score consistently between 545 and 550, but somehow the balance was just not right and it seemed too muzzle heavy, also the sight radius was just too much even with the front sight set back on the last notch.
Now I'm unable to decide which AP to choose between the following: LP10 compact, LP10-E Compact, and the LP2 Compact.
Both the LP10C and LP10EC weigh about 901 grams and 906 grams respectively, while the LP2C weighs in at 780 grams.
1. While I want a lighter pistol than my old LP10 that weighed 968 grams, I wonder if the LP2C would be too light at only 780 grams?
2. Would I be losing a big advantage if I went with a non mechanical trigger? Whats the trigger like on a LP10EC as compared to a mechanical trigger?
Comments welcome from any one that has used any of the above three.
Thanks in advance.
Need help LP10E Compact vs LP2 Compact vs LP10 Compact
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deadeyedick
- Posts: 1186
- Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:55 pm
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I could have written your post No Fear. I have just sold my LP10, which I have owned for one year, for exactly the reasons described by yourself.
My decision has been to buy the LP10E compact, as I felt the problem wasn't the overall weight, but the length and weight of the last 50 mm. of the barrel and shroud, . That extra 70 grams was positioned at the furtherest point, and required a more steady and experienced hand to control than I have.
When I purchased the LP10, the short barrel version wasn't available, but it didn't take long for me to make the move once I found Steyr had released it.
Having owned two short barrel air pistols, and several long versions, I find the weight and balance of the short suits me better...but this is an individual preference.
I opted for the E trigger for the simple reason that I would have always wondered, had I not.
My decision has been to buy the LP10E compact, as I felt the problem wasn't the overall weight, but the length and weight of the last 50 mm. of the barrel and shroud, . That extra 70 grams was positioned at the furtherest point, and required a more steady and experienced hand to control than I have.
When I purchased the LP10, the short barrel version wasn't available, but it didn't take long for me to make the move once I found Steyr had released it.
Having owned two short barrel air pistols, and several long versions, I find the weight and balance of the short suits me better...but this is an individual preference.
I opted for the E trigger for the simple reason that I would have always wondered, had I not.
Being of advanced years and now in the category "the older I get the better I was" I use an LP2 compact for slow fire. I bought it because it was light, the 780gm weight is with the plain universal grip, I have the anatomical grip and I have just check weighed the pistol at 810gms. There is a muzzle weight which I think brings it up to 840 which I do not use. The pistol is well ballanced and a dream to shoot.
I have just bought an LP50e Short for standard pistol and that is superb, the ballance is as good as the LP2 compact, and the trigger is so good it should be illegal! No one believes it will lift the weight but it does easily.
I am tempted to trade in the LP2 for a LP10e short but will not do so because of one issue, and that is I have small hands and short fingers and it is not possible for me whatever I do, or with any trigger shoe to get the 50e or the 10e trigger to a comfortable reach position, I put up with the problem on the 50e and use the trigger offset and angled which is not ideal.
Good Shooting,
Robin
I have just bought an LP50e Short for standard pistol and that is superb, the ballance is as good as the LP2 compact, and the trigger is so good it should be illegal! No one believes it will lift the weight but it does easily.
I am tempted to trade in the LP2 for a LP10e short but will not do so because of one issue, and that is I have small hands and short fingers and it is not possible for me whatever I do, or with any trigger shoe to get the 50e or the 10e trigger to a comfortable reach position, I put up with the problem on the 50e and use the trigger offset and angled which is not ideal.
Good Shooting,
Robin
Have you tried the trigger from Tec-hro? It might get the trigger a little further back for you.RobinC wrote:
I am tempted to trade in the LP2 for a LP10e short but will not do so because of one issue, and that is I have small hands and short fingers and it is not possible for me whatever I do, or with any trigger shoe to get the 50e or the 10e trigger to a comfortable reach position, I put up with the problem on the 50e and use the trigger offset and angled which is not ideal.
Good Shooting,
Robin
Richard
Thanks, we tried that, took off the pin and tried a slimmed LP2 shoe, even made a slim custom blade shoe which only gained a mm, the trigger mechanism is just in the way to shorten it any more, did consider taking off the trigger mounting pin, shortening the trigger weight screw (it protrudes 3 mm) and making a stepped shoe with the blade under the mechanism but I think it would make the pull almost from below which feels odd. I would need a trigger shoe near enough in line with the weight screw to be better. I may try making a stepped shoe to try so will have many hours whittling blocks of alloy! There are two of us in our club with the same problem so we have looked at many ways of achieving it and would love a solution. The electronic grip is very close to the frame as well and I've relieved the web so its wafer thin.
Robin
Thanks, we tried that, took off the pin and tried a slimmed LP2 shoe, even made a slim custom blade shoe which only gained a mm, the trigger mechanism is just in the way to shorten it any more, did consider taking off the trigger mounting pin, shortening the trigger weight screw (it protrudes 3 mm) and making a stepped shoe with the blade under the mechanism but I think it would make the pull almost from below which feels odd. I would need a trigger shoe near enough in line with the weight screw to be better. I may try making a stepped shoe to try so will have many hours whittling blocks of alloy! There are two of us in our club with the same problem so we have looked at many ways of achieving it and would love a solution. The electronic grip is very close to the frame as well and I've relieved the web so its wafer thin.
Robin
I agree with you about the weight distribution not being right, I shoot the Walther SSP which is heavier than the LP10, but due to the overall length being only 9 inches, the balance is excellent.deadeyedick wrote:I could have written your post No Fear. I have just sold my LP10, which I have owned for one year, for exactly the reasons described by yourself.
My decision has been to buy the LP10E compact, as I felt the problem wasn't the overall weight, but the length and weight of the last 50 mm. of the barrel and shroud, . That extra 70 grams was positioned at the furtherest point, and required a more steady and experienced hand to control than I have.
When I purchased the LP10, the short barrel version wasn't available, but it didn't take long for me to make the move once I found Steyr had released it.
Having owned two short barrel air pistols, and several long versions, I find the weight and balance of the short suits me better...but this is an individual preference.
I opted for the E trigger for the simple reason that I would have always wondered, had I not.
I also have small hands and short fingers, I've thought about it a lot and I'm really considering going for the LP10C which should be devoid of the reach problems that you have described.RobinC wrote:Being of advanced years and now in the category "the older I get the better I was" I use an LP2 compact for slow fire. I bought it because it was light, the 780gm weight is with the plain universal grip, I have the anatomical grip and I have just check weighed the pistol at 810gms. There is a muzzle weight which I think brings it up to 840 which I do not use. The pistol is well ballanced and a dream to shoot.
I have just bought an LP50e Short for standard pistol and that is superb, the ballance is as good as the LP2 compact, and the trigger is so good it should be illegal! No one believes it will lift the weight but it does easily.
I am tempted to trade in the LP2 for a LP10e short but will not do so because of one issue, and that is I have small hands and short fingers and it is not possible for me whatever I do, or with any trigger shoe to get the 50e or the 10e trigger to a comfortable reach position, I put up with the problem on the 50e and use the trigger offset and angled which is not ideal.
Good Shooting,
Robin
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deadeyedick
- Posts: 1186
- Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:55 pm
- Location: Australia
I also shoot an SSP, and agree wholeheartedy with regards to the balance.I agree with you about the weight distribution not being right, I shoot the Walther SSP which is heavier than the LP10, but due to the overall length being only 9 inches, the balance is excellent.
My fingers are on the short side as well, but our importer of Steyr is also the agent for Rink grips, and he assures me that Thomas Rink can make a grip from your hand measurement that will overcome any tendency for the trigger being too far forward.
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deadeyedick
- Posts: 1186
- Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:55 pm
- Location: Australia
Unless I am wrong No Fear, the only change between the LP10 and the compact variants is approx two inches of extra barrel and shroud. That being true, the compact will have no difference to short fingers reaching the trigger shoe in any way at all. Only the grip and the forward/rearward manner in which it has been adjusted, and secured, will benefit reach problems.I also have small hands and short fingers, I've thought about it a lot and I'm really considering going for the LP10C which should be devoid of the reach problems that you have described.
Its very interesting to hear that I'm not the only short fingered shooter who has problems with reach.
I'd be interested to see how Rink could improve the issue significantly, particularly as the electronics make the grip a touch bulkier, and I have taken the web on mine to wafer thin.
Back to the issue of compacts, our club is rife with them, LP2's, LP50's, and FWB's and every one cites improved ballance. As I have said, I have the LP2 compact and an LP50e short, they are both an improvement in ballance and hold over the longer models in my opinion.
If you have trigger reach issues I would suggest you strongly consider and ideally try if possible an LP2 compact. The trigger is first class, arguably as good as the LP10, but not as good as the electronic, my LP2 has a minute touch of recoil which I only notice after shooting the LP50e but then mine is set up quite fast, slower ones I have tried are as acurate and feel recoiless. They are cheaper but are built to the standard level of Steyr quality, I use one by choice over an LP10, just would like the electronic trigger if the reach issue was solvable.
Robin
I'd be interested to see how Rink could improve the issue significantly, particularly as the electronics make the grip a touch bulkier, and I have taken the web on mine to wafer thin.
Back to the issue of compacts, our club is rife with them, LP2's, LP50's, and FWB's and every one cites improved ballance. As I have said, I have the LP2 compact and an LP50e short, they are both an improvement in ballance and hold over the longer models in my opinion.
If you have trigger reach issues I would suggest you strongly consider and ideally try if possible an LP2 compact. The trigger is first class, arguably as good as the LP10, but not as good as the electronic, my LP2 has a minute touch of recoil which I only notice after shooting the LP50e but then mine is set up quite fast, slower ones I have tried are as acurate and feel recoiless. They are cheaper but are built to the standard level of Steyr quality, I use one by choice over an LP10, just would like the electronic trigger if the reach issue was solvable.
Robin
If the LP2 suits you, it has to do with the trigger blade. Most LP2 are delivered with a simple trigger blade without all adjustment possibilities of the LP10 trigger blades that originates from the LP1 -> I would advise to try an LP1/LP2 blade on your LP50e. I think that this blade can be put more rearward than the LP10 blades.
About the LP10 blades, there are two models, one mounted on the first LP10 with a narrow black blade and the current one with a much wider silver blade. The fact that this current model is quite wide (this is the model you should have received with your LP50e) may also be a problem for people with shorter finger. Personnaly, even if I don't have short fingers, I do not like the current model and went back to the old style LP10 trigger blade. In-between, I have used a Tec-hro trigger blade and can tell you that it won't solve your problem since it cannot go as far back as the Steyr blade.
I stopped using it for two reasons: difficult to place your finger each time at the same place and same for trigger weight control, the people doing the control do not know where to place the weight, some put it close to the top, some close to the bottom of the blade -> you must put more than 500g to be sure to pass the control even if the guy put the weigth at the bottom of the blade.
Last point, I also think that the ultimate solution is a custom grip. Rink has a special option for people with long fingers like me = thick that add 5mm on the back of the grip and moves your hand 5mm rearward. It should be possible for him to do the opposite, i.e. 5mm less so that your hand will move 5mm to the front.
About the LP10 blades, there are two models, one mounted on the first LP10 with a narrow black blade and the current one with a much wider silver blade. The fact that this current model is quite wide (this is the model you should have received with your LP50e) may also be a problem for people with shorter finger. Personnaly, even if I don't have short fingers, I do not like the current model and went back to the old style LP10 trigger blade. In-between, I have used a Tec-hro trigger blade and can tell you that it won't solve your problem since it cannot go as far back as the Steyr blade.
I stopped using it for two reasons: difficult to place your finger each time at the same place and same for trigger weight control, the people doing the control do not know where to place the weight, some put it close to the top, some close to the bottom of the blade -> you must put more than 500g to be sure to pass the control even if the guy put the weigth at the bottom of the blade.
Last point, I also think that the ultimate solution is a custom grip. Rink has a special option for people with long fingers like me = thick that add 5mm on the back of the grip and moves your hand 5mm rearward. It should be possible for him to do the opposite, i.e. 5mm less so that your hand will move 5mm to the front.
Jipe,
Thanks for your suggestions, I have already tried an LP2 blade and even slimmed down it only gains a mm which I can also gain by slimming the 50 blade. The problem on the 50 and the 50e is the construction of the trigger which has some of the mechanism in the trigger frame cutaway.
To build a grip for big hands and long fingers is easy, but to reduce the reach I can't see how it could work as with the Steyr small grip which I'm using, the grip is wafer thin at the web so there is no scope to shorten by a mm let alone 5, the only route would be to twist the hand around the grip which is not a good idea.
Before any one suggests it, I'm not having surgery to remove some of the web from my hand!
Robin
Thanks for your suggestions, I have already tried an LP2 blade and even slimmed down it only gains a mm which I can also gain by slimming the 50 blade. The problem on the 50 and the 50e is the construction of the trigger which has some of the mechanism in the trigger frame cutaway.
To build a grip for big hands and long fingers is easy, but to reduce the reach I can't see how it could work as with the Steyr small grip which I'm using, the grip is wafer thin at the web so there is no scope to shorten by a mm let alone 5, the only route would be to twist the hand around the grip which is not a good idea.
Before any one suggests it, I'm not having surgery to remove some of the web from my hand!
Robin
Have you thought about this grip
http://www.maennel.at/shop/index.php?ca ... 2a63b152d7
Later this year a grip for LP10E is in produktion and you can order a grip for your measurements as well at a higher cost.
Kent
http://www.maennel.at/shop/index.php?ca ... 2a63b152d7
Later this year a grip for LP10E is in produktion and you can order a grip for your measurements as well at a higher cost.
Kent
Yes, this is due to the removable trigger mechanism of the LP50. It doesn't exist on the LP10 -> you should be able to go a little more backward with the trigger blade on the LP10 and probably also on the LP10E (I do not have this one, only an LP10). Now will it be enough ?RobinC wrote:Jipe,
Thanks for your suggestions, I have already tried an LP2 blade and even slimmed down it only gains a mm which I can also gain by slimming the 50 blade. The problem on the 50 and the 50e is the construction of the trigger which has some of the mechanism in the trigger frame cutaway.
As said I think that Rink would be able to solve your problem with a special grip. He is very knowledgeable and also helpfull -> drop him a mail or even better make a phone call, he speaks english very well (if you don't get an answer, he is may be on holiday as end July/early August are typical holiday period in Germany).
He made a special LP10E grip for Jong Oh Jin who seems to have small hands:
