I am pretty new at using my new air pistol an LP10 with the ball bearing trigger. My trigger is factory adjusted and I can't feel anything at the first stage and then there seems to be a mountain of pressure at the end (last stage). While I continue to practice with it as it is, what do you all recommend? The 150gm first stage and 350gm second stage or should I just let it be?
Thanking you in anticipation,
Dev
Trigger pressure that you like in both stages
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Dev
Trigger pressure that you like in both stages
Hi Ian,joker wrote:Leave it as set until you gain a lot more experience of using the pistol. Dry fire it more than live fire. Don't get caught up in a trigger adjustment fiddling exercise too early in your 'career'.
Good luck & enjoy
IanR
What you have said makes a load of sense. Must get out of boy with new toy mindset. :-)
Thank you,
Dev
Trigger stages/pressure
Pistols from the factory seemed to be set up to function and that's about it. Whilst agreeing with some points in leaving things alone until you gain experience, I have found the new shooter buys a pistol and shoots with it for many months and then decides to get some coaching and if the coach is experienced enough, firstly checks out the pistol, mainly the trigger.
The shooter may find it OK but mostly it is not really ideal for shooting precision events.
With the 2 stage triggers now, I believe too much emphasis is on weights on first and second stages. Do I have 300g first and 210 second??????
The first thing I do for shooters who have just purchsed a new pistol is set up the trigger from the very start and show them how it is done and explain why. Actually look at the trigger movement and see what the trigger does before the shot realease and after rather than hold it out in front of you and do the adjustemnts by 'feel'.
Too many shooters 'perserve' with a crappy trigger and then have to re learn how to do one of the main fundumentals of pistol shooting in pressing the trigger with an uninterupted motion.
How I set up a trigger for shooters is the first stage has about 2-3mm movement of about 100-150 grams so that the shooter can take up the slack and be 'in control' of the trigger prior to entering the target. Then the second stage is the main pressure so that when the shot breaks, the trigger hits the back stop so that there is no backlash. Basiccally a very 'crisp' trigger with no backlash.
This is most important in precision events such as Air, as any movement after the shot release will affect the shot and follow through.
The shooter may find it OK but mostly it is not really ideal for shooting precision events.
With the 2 stage triggers now, I believe too much emphasis is on weights on first and second stages. Do I have 300g first and 210 second??????
The first thing I do for shooters who have just purchsed a new pistol is set up the trigger from the very start and show them how it is done and explain why. Actually look at the trigger movement and see what the trigger does before the shot realease and after rather than hold it out in front of you and do the adjustemnts by 'feel'.
Too many shooters 'perserve' with a crappy trigger and then have to re learn how to do one of the main fundumentals of pistol shooting in pressing the trigger with an uninterupted motion.
How I set up a trigger for shooters is the first stage has about 2-3mm movement of about 100-150 grams so that the shooter can take up the slack and be 'in control' of the trigger prior to entering the target. Then the second stage is the main pressure so that when the shot breaks, the trigger hits the back stop so that there is no backlash. Basiccally a very 'crisp' trigger with no backlash.
This is most important in precision events such as Air, as any movement after the shot release will affect the shot and follow through.
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Dev
Trigger pressure that you like in both stages
Hi Wozzy,
At the risk of blasphemy I must confess that I liked the trigger of my IZH Baikal 46m more. Your note about the trigger breaking like glass reminded me of it. Handled a friend's Morini 162 I E today and that felt smoother as it was set up for a clear first and second stage. I might just take mine to a renowned shooter cum airgunsmith whom I know and discuss things in more detail with him.
Thank you for the beautiful explanation, your kind make shooting a great sport.
Dev
At the risk of blasphemy I must confess that I liked the trigger of my IZH Baikal 46m more. Your note about the trigger breaking like glass reminded me of it. Handled a friend's Morini 162 I E today and that felt smoother as it was set up for a clear first and second stage. I might just take mine to a renowned shooter cum airgunsmith whom I know and discuss things in more detail with him.
Thank you for the beautiful explanation, your kind make shooting a great sport.
Dev
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tallahassee
Hello Wozzy.
A++++ explanation on trigger adjustment I ever heard.
Adjusted my trigger to 1st stage 2mm travel (measured it precisely, never know 2mm is that much travel), 1st stage 150 gm, 2nd stage up to 530 gm total. Zero overtravel (trigger locked up, had to back off a lot, then readvance to just before lock up zero travel, I guess it is not really zero travel as trigger lock up at zero, there got to be some little bitsy travel).
Now I do feel I am in control of the trigger. Now I know what a "controlled" and "crispy" trigger feels like.
A++++ Wozzy.
A++++ explanation on trigger adjustment I ever heard.
Adjusted my trigger to 1st stage 2mm travel (measured it precisely, never know 2mm is that much travel), 1st stage 150 gm, 2nd stage up to 530 gm total. Zero overtravel (trigger locked up, had to back off a lot, then readvance to just before lock up zero travel, I guess it is not really zero travel as trigger lock up at zero, there got to be some little bitsy travel).
Now I do feel I am in control of the trigger. Now I know what a "controlled" and "crispy" trigger feels like.
A++++ Wozzy.
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Doral
Probably taking the "2mm" first stage travel and the weights of each stage too literal.
You don't need to have a 2 stage trigger. If you do have a 2 stage trigger then those are only approximate measures and weights.
If you only have one stage, that's ok as long as you have no creep in the trigger before the shot breaks and no travel after the shot breaks. It's ok the bit of slack before you take up the pressure as well. Older pistols with mechanical sears etc had this 'slop' in the trigger but once taken up it was only pressure then to release the shot and no backlash.
You still need to 'feel' the trigger before you raise the pistol before entering the target. Use the "PAD" pressure of the trigger finger to "feel" this first stage. Then it's just pressure and shot breaks.
If your pistol doesn't have a backstop then maybe a trip to a gunsmith could be on the cards.
You don't need to have a 2 stage trigger. If you do have a 2 stage trigger then those are only approximate measures and weights.
If you only have one stage, that's ok as long as you have no creep in the trigger before the shot breaks and no travel after the shot breaks. It's ok the bit of slack before you take up the pressure as well. Older pistols with mechanical sears etc had this 'slop' in the trigger but once taken up it was only pressure then to release the shot and no backlash.
You still need to 'feel' the trigger before you raise the pistol before entering the target. Use the "PAD" pressure of the trigger finger to "feel" this first stage. Then it's just pressure and shot breaks.
If your pistol doesn't have a backstop then maybe a trip to a gunsmith could be on the cards.
Leave it as set until you gain a lot more experience of using the pistol. Dry fire it more than live fire. Don't get caught up in a trigger adjustment fiddling exercise too early in your 'career'.
Good luck & enjoy
IanR
The best advice here sofar......... The pistol and ball bearing trigger in the LP10 is state of the art. It doesn't get better . Just shoot it a lot and you will soon learn what that trigger can do for you