I am posting this for a friend that recently purchased a used 2001 SuperAir. Long story short he went to messing with the trigger in an attempt to increase the weight of pull closer to his 54 Match Annie. When he was done "adjusting" he ended up turning a perfectly good shooting rifle into a rifle that no longer shoots at all, well at least not when you pull the trigger HA!
Here is what it's doing...
When you open the cocking arm the breach pops open but does not set the valve. The trigger and sear do not seem to engage as it normally would. If you manually set the valve to cocked you can put a pump of air into the rifle and it holds no problem. However, when you go to shoot the trigger just moves a little bit same as if not cocked at all.
Here is the kicker, if you open the pump arm while the rifle is charged/loaded after a few inches of travel it triggers the valve to fire.
I know he had to do something to make the sear out of whack just wondering if anyone has dealt with this before and can help out. Hate to have to send off what is a perfectly good rifle just to get the trigger reset.
My Steyr LG1 SSP does not cock on opening I have to manually set the valve each time but it does not allow me to open the cocking arm once it is charged. Not sure if the 2001 has this safety feature or not but I am pretty sure it is supposed to pop the breach and set the trigger/valve when you cock it. I know the 2002 does.
Any ideas, thoughts, ponderings or perfectly written instructions welcome.
Thanks,
Dee
Annie 2001 SuperAir SSP trigger problem.. Help welcomed :)
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have a look here
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/
Click on Anschutz then Anschutz match trigger. See where is says "The first stage screw must not be changed for the air rifle."? This diagram isn't correct, a better reference is from Anschutz:
http://jga.anschuetz-sport.com/index.ph ... &sprache=1
Go to the bottom of the page and download the instructions.
I recently dis-assembled one of these guns and removed the trigger assembly, it links to the loading gate and without seeing what is going on in your particular case, my guess is that the first stage and/or sear adjustment is incorrect. I'd remove the stock and cock the gun while watching the trigger to see if I could determine what is happening. If the first stage screw (#4) has been adjusted, I'd try adjusting it 1/2 turn at a time out for a couple turns then in for a couple turns to see if you can get the cocking/sear engagement to work. If not, it's probably the sear engagement screw (#5). There is a note regarding weight and sear engagement, go for a lot of sear engagement until you get it working then you can tune it to your liking. My procedure for all 2 stage triggers is basically the same, back things off until there is a lot of 1st stage travel and 2nd stage creep. The 2nd stage creep is sear engagement, the first stage travel is initial trigger position. These two adjustments are not independent, keeping a physical picture of what is happening in my head helps me, I like this animation because even though it's not an exact diagram of all triggers, it does demonstrate the 1st stage/2nd stage sear relationship:
http://www.arld1.com/tx200trigger.html
If you just can't get anywhere, shoot me a message, we'll figure out a time to talk.
-Scot
Click on Anschutz then Anschutz match trigger. See where is says "The first stage screw must not be changed for the air rifle."? This diagram isn't correct, a better reference is from Anschutz:
http://jga.anschuetz-sport.com/index.ph ... &sprache=1
Go to the bottom of the page and download the instructions.
I recently dis-assembled one of these guns and removed the trigger assembly, it links to the loading gate and without seeing what is going on in your particular case, my guess is that the first stage and/or sear adjustment is incorrect. I'd remove the stock and cock the gun while watching the trigger to see if I could determine what is happening. If the first stage screw (#4) has been adjusted, I'd try adjusting it 1/2 turn at a time out for a couple turns then in for a couple turns to see if you can get the cocking/sear engagement to work. If not, it's probably the sear engagement screw (#5). There is a note regarding weight and sear engagement, go for a lot of sear engagement until you get it working then you can tune it to your liking. My procedure for all 2 stage triggers is basically the same, back things off until there is a lot of 1st stage travel and 2nd stage creep. The 2nd stage creep is sear engagement, the first stage travel is initial trigger position. These two adjustments are not independent, keeping a physical picture of what is happening in my head helps me, I like this animation because even though it's not an exact diagram of all triggers, it does demonstrate the 1st stage/2nd stage sear relationship:
http://www.arld1.com/tx200trigger.html
If you just can't get anywhere, shoot me a message, we'll figure out a time to talk.
-Scot