new to me Anschutz 250
Moderators: pilkguns, Marcus, m1963, David Levene, Spencer
new to me Anschutz 250
Greetings,
My first post here and my apologies for asking questions that may well have been answered. I looked through some (alot) of the vast archive.. so you all know... I really tried to find the answer before posting.
I just purchased an in very good condition 250 model. It looks to be little used and cared for... except for some damage to the stock. I can fix that though but will most likely leave it as is. However I am wondering..
1) should I strip and inspect prior to loading and fireing?
2) If I do not strip and inspect, how would I know if the hydraulic dampener is operational?
3) being an older rifle that looks to have been stored for a while, what should I inspect before fireing?
4) links to 'Still in business' spare parts makers.. I.E. the proper seals and dampener fluid. I have done my homework concerning the failures of these parts. I will not even bother contacting Anschutz for spares.
I have a copy of the 250 maintenence manual and understand it. Just so you know I am not a hack. I am an accomplished prototype/model maker/highly qualified machinist and wood worker for an international tool company. I am not bragging, simply sharing my perspective and abilities.
I purchased this rifle because I am not yet ready for PCP.. tanks, refilling and all...+ the $$$$ for a new Anschutz 8002 walnut club. But I want one!!! that or a FWB... the FWB seems way chunky though.. Does this mean extra wood for shaping? The 8002 is much more svelt and speaks to me! So yeah.. someday..
The price of the 250 was fair and I did ask the right questions of the seller. I am however always anxious about buying a used rifle. This rifle is for me to enjoy in my basement 10m range. I do not aspire to be a competitor. I simply enjoy shooting. I feel that I have found a quality rifle even if it is a bit long in the tooth. I also purchased because the rifle is simply beautiful! I have been looking at and wishing for an Anschutz for a long while.
I thank you for your time to share your opinions,
Here are a few photos...
Creighton Wade Nachtigall[/img]
My first post here and my apologies for asking questions that may well have been answered. I looked through some (alot) of the vast archive.. so you all know... I really tried to find the answer before posting.
I just purchased an in very good condition 250 model. It looks to be little used and cared for... except for some damage to the stock. I can fix that though but will most likely leave it as is. However I am wondering..
1) should I strip and inspect prior to loading and fireing?
2) If I do not strip and inspect, how would I know if the hydraulic dampener is operational?
3) being an older rifle that looks to have been stored for a while, what should I inspect before fireing?
4) links to 'Still in business' spare parts makers.. I.E. the proper seals and dampener fluid. I have done my homework concerning the failures of these parts. I will not even bother contacting Anschutz for spares.
I have a copy of the 250 maintenence manual and understand it. Just so you know I am not a hack. I am an accomplished prototype/model maker/highly qualified machinist and wood worker for an international tool company. I am not bragging, simply sharing my perspective and abilities.
I purchased this rifle because I am not yet ready for PCP.. tanks, refilling and all...+ the $$$$ for a new Anschutz 8002 walnut club. But I want one!!! that or a FWB... the FWB seems way chunky though.. Does this mean extra wood for shaping? The 8002 is much more svelt and speaks to me! So yeah.. someday..
The price of the 250 was fair and I did ask the right questions of the seller. I am however always anxious about buying a used rifle. This rifle is for me to enjoy in my basement 10m range. I do not aspire to be a competitor. I simply enjoy shooting. I feel that I have found a quality rifle even if it is a bit long in the tooth. I also purchased because the rifle is simply beautiful! I have been looking at and wishing for an Anschutz for a long while.
I thank you for your time to share your opinions,
Here are a few photos...
Creighton Wade Nachtigall[/img]
A good site to ask questions about older airgun is the " American Vintage Airgun Forum "
Here is the link:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/405945/
Here is the link:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/405945/
Your air rifle is a Type I Anschutz LG250 ... the early version. Rebuild parts are available via JG Airguns:
http://www.jgairguns.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=78_81
Assuming the bore is clear/clean, put a wadcutter in the breech and test fire. If you have a chronograpgh look for 600 fps or better velocities. If not chrony, then shot at a high quality paper 10 Meter target and see if the rifle is cutting very clean holes ... if not then the velocity is on the low side.
Nice rifle ... take care of it and your grandchildren will remember you as a wonderful Grandpa.
Hope this helps.
http://www.jgairguns.biz/catalog/index.php?cPath=78_81
Assuming the bore is clear/clean, put a wadcutter in the breech and test fire. If you have a chronograpgh look for 600 fps or better velocities. If not chrony, then shot at a high quality paper 10 Meter target and see if the rifle is cutting very clean holes ... if not then the velocity is on the low side.
Nice rifle ... take care of it and your grandchildren will remember you as a wonderful Grandpa.
Hope this helps.
PLEASE for yr own sake and the rifles DO DO strip it!!!
Its very easy to do, no real preload either.
Cause the 250 actually is a VERYVERY poor design. Check the actionpin at the back. There's SO little steel left around it. When a 250 is shot a lot with empty of leaky damper, its action wíll tear right there. My old one did. So if yrs shows any bulging/tear there, its too late, its scrap..
Also, when its shot with leaky/empty damper, it can crack its stock very easily. Mine did and I've seen many others.
Also, when you open it, and it has been shot with....you know, the damper itself might been bulged and damaged..Mine was..
I nów have a good one, but I díd open it and service it cause it díd leak allthough it wasnt empty yét.
They almost all leak/are empty after those 20 yrs..
Actually, the Anschutz 250 was a bad call from Anschutz. It doesnt shoot totally recoilless either like FWB300, its damped only. But its nice .22LR practise. And good one's are, as you'll understand, quite rare.
How do you know it leaks: you see a squirt of oil with the shot. If you leave it upright, it'll show a little oilstain on the floor. Recoil will be worse and it'll have a felt vibration. If it dóesnt show any oil, it can stíll mean trouble cause allready empty.
On the airgunbbs.com there's LOTS of info from Garvin about the 250. How to, and where to..
If you need help dismantling, let me know
Its very easy to do, no real preload either.
Cause the 250 actually is a VERYVERY poor design. Check the actionpin at the back. There's SO little steel left around it. When a 250 is shot a lot with empty of leaky damper, its action wíll tear right there. My old one did. So if yrs shows any bulging/tear there, its too late, its scrap..
Also, when its shot with leaky/empty damper, it can crack its stock very easily. Mine did and I've seen many others.
Also, when you open it, and it has been shot with....you know, the damper itself might been bulged and damaged..Mine was..
I nów have a good one, but I díd open it and service it cause it díd leak allthough it wasnt empty yét.
They almost all leak/are empty after those 20 yrs..
Actually, the Anschutz 250 was a bad call from Anschutz. It doesnt shoot totally recoilless either like FWB300, its damped only. But its nice .22LR practise. And good one's are, as you'll understand, quite rare.
How do you know it leaks: you see a squirt of oil with the shot. If you leave it upright, it'll show a little oilstain on the floor. Recoil will be worse and it'll have a felt vibration. If it dóesnt show any oil, it can stíll mean trouble cause allready empty.
On the airgunbbs.com there's LOTS of info from Garvin about the 250. How to, and where to..
If you need help dismantling, let me know
Yrs indeed is an older version. It doesnt have the frontsight ramp yet.
Fluid is just gearbox fluid! So very easy! (for automatic).
Seals for the damper can be had from any big hydraulic shop.
There's a shop in Australia which still has the damperbuffer, barrelseal and spring (titan). The pistonseal is a steelring that wont need replacement probably.
I forgot to say, in the rear of the action, there's a buffer in the butt, to buff the damper etc after each shot. If this is missing or all flat/damaged, yr action will get all the pounding, causing the action and/or stock to crack. An empty damper will give it more pounding offcourse.
Those buffers arent 4 sale, but you can make it yrself.
Fluid is just gearbox fluid! So very easy! (for automatic).
Seals for the damper can be had from any big hydraulic shop.
There's a shop in Australia which still has the damperbuffer, barrelseal and spring (titan). The pistonseal is a steelring that wont need replacement probably.
I forgot to say, in the rear of the action, there's a buffer in the butt, to buff the damper etc after each shot. If this is missing or all flat/damaged, yr action will get all the pounding, causing the action and/or stock to crack. An empty damper will give it more pounding offcourse.
Those buffers arent 4 sale, but you can make it yrself.
Thank you Yana,
The place I purchased the rifle from is a family run business that has been around for a while. They have a return policy of "satisfaction guaranteed". I am just wondering now If I should even bother with it... I know that is my decision. I do enjoy working on machines like this, to resurrect a cool thing to use...BUT to what degree??
Its difficult to decide for there are sooo many opinions about this model of rifle. They range from the tragic to the sublime. " It's a terrible rifle" -to- "its wonderful! Nice find!!"
....All however have addressed the issue of the dampener and rear pin....
The pin/hole with too little metal around it.... What part#/location is that on the exploded drawing in the maual?
I suppose that my primary concern is stripping to inspect. This is not covered in the return policy. I fear that this torn/bulged hole may be there... I suppose it was foolish to buy used. I have found new rifles that would have suited me but they are not as cool. And yes, quality made used target rifles ( FWB 300) are very rare. Folks dont want to give them up. VS> the 250 witch eventually tore itself apart and lost.. making them just as rare..
Advice is welcome
Thank you for time,
C. Wade Nachtigall
The place I purchased the rifle from is a family run business that has been around for a while. They have a return policy of "satisfaction guaranteed". I am just wondering now If I should even bother with it... I know that is my decision. I do enjoy working on machines like this, to resurrect a cool thing to use...BUT to what degree??
Its difficult to decide for there are sooo many opinions about this model of rifle. They range from the tragic to the sublime. " It's a terrible rifle" -to- "its wonderful! Nice find!!"
....All however have addressed the issue of the dampener and rear pin....
The pin/hole with too little metal around it.... What part#/location is that on the exploded drawing in the maual?
I suppose that my primary concern is stripping to inspect. This is not covered in the return policy. I fear that this torn/bulged hole may be there... I suppose it was foolish to buy used. I have found new rifles that would have suited me but they are not as cool. And yes, quality made used target rifles ( FWB 300) are very rare. Folks dont want to give them up. VS> the 250 witch eventually tore itself apart and lost.. making them just as rare..
Advice is welcome
Thank you for time,
C. Wade Nachtigall
^^^sorry, forgot to log in.. Thats me up there.
And I think I found the pin/screw that you mention and the corresponding hole. Yeah I can see that if the dampener is bad then that hole would tear out because of the re-coil action.
I ask.. looking at the photos above, does the small gap between the end of the action tube and the rear cap suggest the sort of damage you speak of?
Thanks again,
Wade
And I think I found the pin/screw that you mention and the corresponding hole. Yeah I can see that if the dampener is bad then that hole would tear out because of the re-coil action.
I ask.. looking at the photos above, does the small gap between the end of the action tube and the rear cap suggest the sort of damage you speak of?
Thanks again,
Wade
Dont get me wrong, they áre nice finds, but they just are a risk. GOOD one's are rare. And they werent very popular cause its not recoilless like the FWB300 etc. They also DO shoot very well. As good as any FWB ect, but they just arent recoilless. I kinda like it in its own way, cause it feels a bit like a .22 matchrifle.:)
That space cán mean something, but it doesnt need to. Does the end pin still look straight?(does it sit evenly in the hole?) Mine was bent as well..
Only 1 way to find out, open it!;)
If you have guarantee than have thém open it to check. No good, money back? Its very easy to do. Spares are doable too. (normal wearout spares).
Here on the continent there are LOADS of FWB300's etc.
If you dont like the risk or if you shoot a LOT but still want something different than a FWB, there áre options: Anschutz 220 or 380. Diana 75. The Walthers. If you dont like big guns, try the Junior versions or some very nice CO2's like the Tau 200 or Alfa CO2 rifle.
That space cán mean something, but it doesnt need to. Does the end pin still look straight?(does it sit evenly in the hole?) Mine was bent as well..
Only 1 way to find out, open it!;)
If you have guarantee than have thém open it to check. No good, money back? Its very easy to do. Spares are doable too. (normal wearout spares).
Here on the continent there are LOADS of FWB300's etc.
If you dont like the risk or if you shoot a LOT but still want something different than a FWB, there áre options: Anschutz 220 or 380. Diana 75. The Walthers. If you dont like big guns, try the Junior versions or some very nice CO2's like the Tau 200 or Alfa CO2 rifle.
Thank you again Yana,
Now I really feel foolish for buying. I wanted one rifle to start out with and it looks like I picked a challenge!! The whole purpose of getting a rifle in the first place was to shoot it! I am not a collector but rather a user. Lots to think about... Indeed. And no, I am not hung up on Anschutz in particular. I should have dug deeper before I pulled the trigger so to speak. Then again, I suppose we learn more from our mistakes than our successes..
I need to ponder my options... the rifle arrives this week.
Now I really feel foolish for buying. I wanted one rifle to start out with and it looks like I picked a challenge!! The whole purpose of getting a rifle in the first place was to shoot it! I am not a collector but rather a user. Lots to think about... Indeed. And no, I am not hung up on Anschutz in particular. I should have dug deeper before I pulled the trigger so to speak. Then again, I suppose we learn more from our mistakes than our successes..
I need to ponder my options... the rifle arrives this week.
Dont worry just yet. The one I have new, I bought it ivgc. Bút it díd already leak. However, there wasnt any damage yet. So after revision, its fine now. Its not a real challenge to service it. I'm not really handy myself, but the 250 is SO easy to work on!
Once fixed it should be fine for yrs again. Just keep a look out for oilspray/leakage/wetness under the stock.
Yr not foolish at all. It happens. I had a very bad 1 when I bought my 1st 250. I didnt know much about its system and design back than. It was beyond repair unfortunately.
Not our fault though, you'd expect something very good and reliable from anschutz!!
You wait and see what you get first mate before you stress up!;)
They're far cheaper usually than their competition FWB, Diana etc. So once its resealed they're very much worth their money.
Once fixed it should be fine for yrs again. Just keep a look out for oilspray/leakage/wetness under the stock.
Yr not foolish at all. It happens. I had a very bad 1 when I bought my 1st 250. I didnt know much about its system and design back than. It was beyond repair unfortunately.
Not our fault though, you'd expect something very good and reliable from anschutz!!
You wait and see what you get first mate before you stress up!;)
They're far cheaper usually than their competition FWB, Diana etc. So once its resealed they're very much worth their money.
I ask myself why I am giving up so easily? This rifle has potential and mebbe has found a proper home. The moneys and fair value, based on work needed to repair will be worked out with seller. Otherwise this will go back and be scrapped. For a strange reason I want to keep this one and fix it. I can fix it and have a plan.
Here are some photos of the failure.. just where you expect them to be...
breech gap
caused by this gap..
because of this..
..and this..
This is not a lost cause but a repair means one that is far from a 'stock' job. If that were the case then this rifle would be lost. The internal seal repairs are a given.. that does not concern me. That is basic for upgrading to modern polymers. Its how to bed the rear of the action to be solid once more.
I am going to work on this isse and resolve. I have an idea that will work. I will say that the effort and resulting rifle will not be a 'stock' re-build. I want to shoot it! Would there be any interest in the repair of a widely considered ruined rifle?
I will post a photo log here of the repair if you folks want to see an anouther point of view?
Thank you for your time,
Tin
Here are some photos of the failure.. just where you expect them to be...
breech gap
caused by this gap..
because of this..
..and this..
This is not a lost cause but a repair means one that is far from a 'stock' job. If that were the case then this rifle would be lost. The internal seal repairs are a given.. that does not concern me. That is basic for upgrading to modern polymers. Its how to bed the rear of the action to be solid once more.
I am going to work on this isse and resolve. I have an idea that will work. I will say that the effort and resulting rifle will not be a 'stock' re-build. I want to shoot it! Would there be any interest in the repair of a widely considered ruined rifle?
I will post a photo log here of the repair if you folks want to see an anouther point of view?
Thank you for your time,
Tin
The 250 went back home. I was sad as I said.. but time and tide...
So.. I landed this from GunBroker... Steyr LG-1!! It was a bit of a pinch but hey.. NO scuba tanks!!! So there is a built in saving right there!!
And.. Sorry if I was bidding against anyone here!!! I also contacted Steyr and they are sending a manual! Very cool folks to work with! These photos are by the seller.. I will take a few more detail shots once it gets here.
Cheers, Tin
So.. I landed this from GunBroker... Steyr LG-1!! It was a bit of a pinch but hey.. NO scuba tanks!!! So there is a built in saving right there!!
And.. Sorry if I was bidding against anyone here!!! I also contacted Steyr and they are sending a manual! Very cool folks to work with! These photos are by the seller.. I will take a few more detail shots once it gets here.
Cheers, Tin