888 Avanti co2 tubes
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DEER LODGE
888 Avanti co2 tubes
We just started our 4-H shooting program this year and I am having problems finding parts. I have been to probably 40 websites and cannot find parts, all I find are the guns. I finally found orings for the tubes (50 miles away) at a sporting goods store. Now I'm trying to find internal oring kits and pressure relief valves for the tubes. Does anyone know where I can find a one stop web shop for 888's in general? Thanks. Dean
I agree with Pat McCoy, daisy's stuff seems better. There is no repair kit for the CO2 inner parts that I know of, even from Daisy. When I've repaired the cylinders, I used auto orings & red locktite. I hope I never have to get them apart :-). With the locktite, the gas should never get to the oring. Red locktite is the strongest and you may not have to go that strong.
CO2 parts
Contact Daisy directly by phone. They have a youth shooting program support office that offers a discount on rifles to qualified youth programs and offer great parts support. 4H clubs qualify. You just need to send them the appropriate verification.
For the CO2 cylinders, teflon paintball tank o-rings and copper pressure burst disks for CO2 tanks will work fine. Sports Authority stocks them regularly. Some WalMarts also carry them but they don't always stock them. A lot of paintball shops have shut down because of the economy, but they should have them in stock if you can find one.
For the internal valve of the CO2 rifles, Daisy started pinning the cylinder adapters so that you cannot remove them to access the valves. The early models weren't pinned and some over enthusiastic users would tighten their cylinders in so tight that when they tried to remove them, they would unscrew the adapter instead and all kind of havoc would be unleashed as the CO2 cyclinder dumped it contents in a cloud of smoke. So now they pin them in place.
This isn't a problem, though, as the valves appear to be made of Delrin and seem to be very durable. (Yeah, I ordered some spares before I found out that you cant actually service them.) Our club has several rifles that have over 10,000 rounds through them without any problems. If you use filtered CO2 and always keep a cylinder in the rifle, contaminants shouldn't get into the valve to screw it up and moisture shouldn't be able to get in to corrode the valve spring. In the rare chance that a problem develops, call the company. I've spoken with the company's repair guy and he told me that you cannot remove the pin as it is driven into a blind hole that is drilled after the cylinder adapter is installed.
Here's a tip to preserve your cylinder o-rings. We used to chew up an o-ring every time we removed a cylinder. Evidently, the liquid CO2 seeps into the o-ring material and makes it soft. If there is still pressure in the cylinder when you try to unscrew it from the rifle, the blast of residual gas in the rifle will cut the o-ring when you unscrew the cylinder. To prevent this, unscrew the cylinder about 3/4 of a full turn and dry fire the rifle until all the gas in the system is purged. (Point the rifle in a safe direction when you do this.) You should then be able to unscrew the cylinder by hand without tearing the o-ring. You can tell the o-ring was soaking in liquid CO2 if it appears white in color and feels soft. This is normal as the o-ring also expands slightly and ensures a tight, leak free seal. The o-ring will return to its original color when it dries out. We haven't blown out an o-ring in the last year by following this procedure.
One more thing, do not use any petroleum based grease or oil on the o-rings. Petroleum attacks the rubber and makes them breakdown over time. If you must use grease, apply a silicone based grease very sparingly.
For the CO2 cylinders, teflon paintball tank o-rings and copper pressure burst disks for CO2 tanks will work fine. Sports Authority stocks them regularly. Some WalMarts also carry them but they don't always stock them. A lot of paintball shops have shut down because of the economy, but they should have them in stock if you can find one.
For the internal valve of the CO2 rifles, Daisy started pinning the cylinder adapters so that you cannot remove them to access the valves. The early models weren't pinned and some over enthusiastic users would tighten their cylinders in so tight that when they tried to remove them, they would unscrew the adapter instead and all kind of havoc would be unleashed as the CO2 cyclinder dumped it contents in a cloud of smoke. So now they pin them in place.
This isn't a problem, though, as the valves appear to be made of Delrin and seem to be very durable. (Yeah, I ordered some spares before I found out that you cant actually service them.) Our club has several rifles that have over 10,000 rounds through them without any problems. If you use filtered CO2 and always keep a cylinder in the rifle, contaminants shouldn't get into the valve to screw it up and moisture shouldn't be able to get in to corrode the valve spring. In the rare chance that a problem develops, call the company. I've spoken with the company's repair guy and he told me that you cannot remove the pin as it is driven into a blind hole that is drilled after the cylinder adapter is installed.
Here's a tip to preserve your cylinder o-rings. We used to chew up an o-ring every time we removed a cylinder. Evidently, the liquid CO2 seeps into the o-ring material and makes it soft. If there is still pressure in the cylinder when you try to unscrew it from the rifle, the blast of residual gas in the rifle will cut the o-ring when you unscrew the cylinder. To prevent this, unscrew the cylinder about 3/4 of a full turn and dry fire the rifle until all the gas in the system is purged. (Point the rifle in a safe direction when you do this.) You should then be able to unscrew the cylinder by hand without tearing the o-ring. You can tell the o-ring was soaking in liquid CO2 if it appears white in color and feels soft. This is normal as the o-ring also expands slightly and ensures a tight, leak free seal. The o-ring will return to its original color when it dries out. We haven't blown out an o-ring in the last year by following this procedure.
One more thing, do not use any petroleum based grease or oil on the o-rings. Petroleum attacks the rubber and makes them breakdown over time. If you must use grease, apply a silicone based grease very sparingly.