Single Stage vs Two Stage Trigger?
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Single Stage vs Two Stage Trigger?
Anybody have any thoughts on single vs 2 stage trigger for match prone shooting?
Like most questions about equipment, you really do need to try both to decide what you prefer.
I prefer a two-stage trigger. I "suffered" for six months with a single-stage on my new-to-me 1913 until I figured out how to convert it to two-stage. Now I just have to fiddle with the first stage until I'm happy.
What's your experience with either? What event (prone/3-P/air) are you shooting?
Jason
I prefer a two-stage trigger. I "suffered" for six months with a single-stage on my new-to-me 1913 until I figured out how to convert it to two-stage. Now I just have to fiddle with the first stage until I'm happy.
What's your experience with either? What event (prone/3-P/air) are you shooting?
Jason
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I much prefer a two stage trigger.
My competitive rifle shooting began in US NRA Highpower Rifle using a match-conditioned Rock River AR-15 service rifle. It came with a pretty decent two stage match trigger, which I then had tuned by a competent gunsmith. Later on I replaced it with a Geissele two-stage trigger, which is a superb unit.
Along the way I picked up an Anschutz 1411 for prone shooting and just fell in love with its trigger.
For a while I participated in Highpower Rifle using a Model 70 repeater equipped with a Jewell two-stage trigger. Eventually I drifted to all prone competition and found a fullbore target rifle for a really good price, though it came with a single stage trigger that was pretty horrid. I didn't want to sink too much money initially so I replaced whatever trigger that was with a single stage unit from Rifle Basix.
But I miss a crisp two-stage, so next year I will probably install a Chombart trigger now that they are manufactured in the United States and price and availability are non-issues.
My competitive rifle shooting began in US NRA Highpower Rifle using a match-conditioned Rock River AR-15 service rifle. It came with a pretty decent two stage match trigger, which I then had tuned by a competent gunsmith. Later on I replaced it with a Geissele two-stage trigger, which is a superb unit.
Along the way I picked up an Anschutz 1411 for prone shooting and just fell in love with its trigger.
For a while I participated in Highpower Rifle using a Model 70 repeater equipped with a Jewell two-stage trigger. Eventually I drifted to all prone competition and found a fullbore target rifle for a really good price, though it came with a single stage trigger that was pretty horrid. I didn't want to sink too much money initially so I replaced whatever trigger that was with a single stage unit from Rifle Basix.
But I miss a crisp two-stage, so next year I will probably install a Chombart trigger now that they are manufactured in the United States and price and availability are non-issues.
- Freepistol
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I only shoot smallbore prone, although I used to shoot air rifle too.
I've always shot Anschütz, Match 54's, and 1913's, always with two stage triggers. But while I was shooting air rifle, I was aware that my trigger technique changed, where it became much more positive and decisive.
My current trigger set up is pretty much as it leaves the Anschütz factory.
First stage 50g, second stage 110g, but the first stage is very short, less than 1mm, difficult to see, but more than enough to feel.
I've always shot Anschütz, Match 54's, and 1913's, always with two stage triggers. But while I was shooting air rifle, I was aware that my trigger technique changed, where it became much more positive and decisive.
My current trigger set up is pretty much as it leaves the Anschütz factory.
First stage 50g, second stage 110g, but the first stage is very short, less than 1mm, difficult to see, but more than enough to feel.
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Overtravel is good even if your break is perfect. Preventing the trigger from coming to a stop immediately after breaking should keep the rifle steady for those few milliseconds that the bullet is in the bore, particularly with air and smallbore rifles.Freepistol wrote:I subscribe to the theory that some overtravel was good in case I yanked the trigger.
I believe that more than likely you are against the [ properly adjusted ]overtravel stop before the firing pin hits the rim or primer. Now if you dial in a lot of overtravel who knows where the bullet is when you hit the stop.Jose Rossy wrote:Overtravel is good even if your break is perfect. Preventing the trigger from coming to a stop immediately after breaking should keep the rifle steady for those few milliseconds that the bullet is in the bore, particularly with air and smallbore rifles.Freepistol wrote:I subscribe to the theory that some overtravel was good in case I yanked the trigger.
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Already out the barrel.rayjay wrote:Now if you dial in a lot of overtravel who knows where the bullet is when you hit the stop.
Lots of overtravel is one of the techniques G. David Tubb uses to set up his rifles. Hard to argue with the man's record and his reasons for doing what he does.
At the very least, the fact that one of the best riflemen of modern times favors as much overtravel as he can get out of the trigger means that such a technique merits consideration.
Interesting article below supporting Jose's post. I am surprised at the 16 oz total trigger pull weight. That high a pull weight would definitely make me think differently about trigger overtravel.
http://www.zediker.com/articles/dt_triggering.pdf
http://www.zediker.com/articles/dt_triggering.pdf
Last edited by rayjay on Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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16 ounces is normal for centerfire prone rifles in NRA competiton. Palma rifle rules require a higher weight (1.5 kg) and CMP service rifle rules require it even higher (4 lbs total for both stages).rayjay wrote:Interesting article below supporting Jose's post. I am surprised at the 16 oz total trigger pull weight. That high a pull weight would definitely make me think differently about trigger overtravel.
http://www.zediker.com/articles/dt_triggering.pdf