TargetTalk

Grabbing the pistol grip before placing your elbow down can help prevent your hand from pushing the rifle sideways if you need to lift your elbow for loading.

You can fill up your gun at any time, but you must leave the line.

B40-4 targets would fit nicely on a backer that size.

I have a Steyr LP10 long, and out of curiosity I removed the barrel shroud and found it was a lot lighter at the front without all the excess metal. My question is, does anybody shoot a LP10 without the shroud? It will be more than an afternoon project to machine a new front sight base and compensat...

At the air pistol JO's recently during the final we shot with National Geographic music straight from a Planet Earth documentary. But only during sighters.

... the theory is the silicone based oil soaks into the metal surface deeper than any other oil, ... Fluids do not "soak into" metals. Metal does not have pores, contrary to many ill-informed discussions. Pores or surface finish, however you'd like to view it is indeed real. There is no s...

Maybe it’s not the humidity causing the rust. Some people are known as “rusters”, have a higher pH in their sweat I believe you might've meant lower pH. Above 7pH is alkaline, lower than 7 is acidic. 7 is neutral, like water. I've heard great things about using dot4 brake fluid on suppressor innard...

I agree that lot testing is a bit extreme for the average shooter, but weight and head size really have an effect on my guns. All mine (Lp10 long, early FWB 700, and a challenger) like 4.49 R10's. None of them including the pistol shoot light pistol pellets well.

I like my AHG precise, it sits right against my cheekbone. I find if I jam my cheek into the cheekpiece not only does it disrupt my vision but I get a pulse.

You can try bench testing to see if your barrel is still breaking in. Use a scope and test on a calm day and if you're still not getting great groups, go back to your 1913. The resistance you're feeling with the brush is called a choke. It's intention is to somewhat size each bullet to a uniform siz...

I am not aware of any commercially available units currently for sale. With two people (one pushing the tube endcap in place under spring pressure) and one to affix the end cap in place, many can be rebuilt without one. Some air rifles (like the Beeman R1 I believe) don't have very much static prelo...

If it's spring vibration, look up "Heavy Tar" and it will help with vibration. It will not diesel and combust. CRC engine assembly grease with molly is what I've used in the past for rebuilding spring guns and have had very good success. If your FWB uses leather seals (I have no idea how F...

The barrel shroud can be removed. You could shorten the fore-end, and use a router or mill to carve out wood inside the fore-end. If you lighten the stock, value decreases, because these are more of a collectors item now. A lot of silhouette and FT shooters treasure them, and I don't disagree.

Rover wrote:BTW I clamp my LP1 by the trigger guard, as recommended by Steyr. I was always afraid of crushing the cylinder.

That cylinder is holding 3,000 PSI. If your vise is clamping the cylinder hard enough to deform it under the immense pressure inside, you must have some monster vise!

On my FWb 700, all three inserts in the wood cheekpiece take 10-32 UNF screws. I guess they changed to metric over the years, or for their new model.

My guess is that because for a "Sporter" class rimfire match you need a Sporter barrel profile, not a lightweight target profile barrel.

I don't have a metric thread pitch gauge, but I do have a Starrett metric scale. 11x1.5mm pitch on the dot.

I'm with mtncwru, I have a 1907 in a 1914 stock and I love it. I've felt a few xx13 models and they just don't have great balance. If you buy the xx07 and regret it, add weights. If you buy the xx13 and regret it....not much you can do. They are button rifled so thinning the profile and tapering one...

M11 comes in two standard pitches (or, "leads") 1mm and 1.5mm between the V's of the thread form. Use a ruler to determine thread pitch. 1mm = ~0.040", 1.5mm = ~0.060" and 1/16" is 0.0625". Measure from one V to another, if it's 1/16" between them you have a 1.5mm ...

Silver. Black absorbs light and can weigh it down, I think Rover would agree.