TargetTalk

I have an old (circa 1991) Anschutz 1913. The rear action screw is the type with the washers on it.

I know I should alternate between the screws, tightening each one gradually until I've achieved the target torque values. However, it takes a lot more turns to torque the rear screw, which gives rise to my question: does it matter which screw I start with? Thank you.

Reach torque value first on the screw closest to the recoil lug or other protrusion positioning the barreled action in the stock, imho

I read a year or two ago that Anschutz was no longer recommending 6nm on metal and 5nm on wood stocks.

rgibson wrote: ↑Sun Oct 29, 2023 1:38 pm I read a year or two ago that Anschutz was no longer recommending 6nm on metal and 5nm on wood stocks.

The latest manual on the website*, just gives 5nm for both round and square actions. Alu stocks are shown, and wood wasn't mentioned.

*https://cloud.anschuetz-sport.com/index ... ile=214391

Thanks, guys.

Tim:

FYI, as I read it, that manual shows 5 Nm for aluminum stocks (p. 24) and 4 Nm for wood stocks (pp. 29 and 32).

Being an older American guy, my torque wrench was done in in-lbs.
In my testing over the years the majority of the 'round' Match 54 Actions shoot their best at 45 in-lbs of bedding torque. This is remarkably close to 5 nm of torque on the metric wrench. (5nm = 44.25 in-lbs)

When I was just but a wee tyke, I was taught to torque rear first then front BUT to do it in stages. SO... If I had nothing else to go on, I would tighten back to front to 30 in-lbs, then 40 in-lbs and final torque to 45 in-lbs. If you got a metric wrench go for 2.5 nm, 4 nm and final torque to 5 nm.

I have never heard of a split bedding screw where the rear screw had the belleville washers and the front did not but all that means is I never seen it. Most of my Anschutz are 14xx to 18xx vintage. But yeah, that screw with the stack of washers is going to take more to get it to torque, you are compressing the belleville washers, which are specialize springs.

'Dude