TargetTalk

I feel confident in the proper way to lubricate metal to metal joints, but lubrication of cylinders, cups and seals has me concerned.

I now have three guns that quit holding pressure in quick order (Beeman P17, AV V-10 & AV 46M). Two stopped holding air shortly after I applied Crosman Silicone Oil, but my P17 quit on me for no apparent reason.

I am now suspicious of the silicone oil as my guns failed almost immediately after applying silicone oil. I have a replacment 46M (the old one was under warranty) but now I am reluctant to oil the cylinder with anything.

In reading many posts, here and other places I see recommendations for mineral oil, hydraulic oil, Crosman Pelgun Oil, Superlube, FWB Grease, non-detergent motor oil... the list goes on.

I regularly use silicone ear plugs. I once tried cleaning a pair with rubbing alcohol and they immediately dissolved into goo; using the wrong materials can be disasterous.

Over the years, I have used Pelgun oil, air tool oil (recommended by Venturi Air's top gunsmith), and Superlube synthetic grease (recommended by our host, who services LOTS of high end air guns). I've never had a problem with any of them.

I have an original (non M) IZH46 that is still on its original seals. I use Superlube no silicone grease.

SILICONE LUBRICATING GREASE WITH SYNCOLON® (PTFE)
Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE)
Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Grease with Syncolon® (PTFE) is NLGI Grade 2 and has a wider operating range than petroleum-based lubricants; -40°F to 500°F (-40°C to 260°C). It has excellent water protection and it is a moisture barrier.

Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Grease is dielectric, food grade, clean and environmentally friendly. It can be used on plastic gears, plastic threads or as a damping medium.

Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Grease is compatible with the majority of rubber and plastic compounds. See Compatibility Chart under Technical Resources for further details.

Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Grease is an NSF registered Food Grade lubricant, rated H1 for incidental food contact and meets former USDA (H1) guidelines.

Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Grease is Kosher Certified.

"Super Lube® Silicone Lubricating Grease is Kosher Certified."

OMFG, you Mad Dog 20 20 guzzlers will be in heaven now.

I actually avoid the silicone grease. I use Superlube PN 21030 which is the 3oz size, or PN 21014 1/2 oz.

Sorry I did not clarify earlier. The silicone variety acts like scouring powder on metal.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 4:34 am Over the years, I have used Pelgun oil,

I'd be careful with that stuff. According to Crosman's MSDS, it's 30W motor oil (which, being a petroleum oil, will not play nice with normal Buna O-Rings.)

Silicone oil (assuming it's a pure silicone oil) should be safe with most O-rings, as far as I know. I used a pure silicone grease or a synthetic teflon grease for most of my camera housing seals (which ranged from Buna O-rings to custom silicone gaskets.)

brent375hh wrote: ↑Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:53 am I actually avoid the silicone grease. I use Superlube PN 21030 which is the 3oz size, or PN 21014 1/2 oz.

Sorry I did not clarify earlier. The silicone variety acts like scouring powder on metal.

Superlube PN 21030 is exactly what I quoted from above. You are using silicone grease!

Oldbear wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 12:32 am

brent375hh wrote: ↑Tue Apr 05, 2022 8:53 am I actually avoid the silicone grease. I use Superlube PN 21030 which is the 3oz size, or PN 21014 1/2 oz.

Sorry I did not clarify earlier. The silicone variety acts like scouring powder on metal.

Superlube PN 21030 is exactly what I quoted from above. You are using silicone grease!

My tube of Superlube 21030 does not mention silicone anywhere on it. It does contain Syncolon (PTFE).
It claims to be synthetic grease. I can only say that it works better than anything else I have used.

This problem comes up regularly. Super-Lube is a brand, and they make both silicone & non-silicone lubricants. To make matters more confusing, they also use different part numbers for the same stuff in different packaging. You want the non-silicone synthetic grease. For the amounts you will need for an air pistol, the 1/2 oz #21010 (blister pack) or 1/2 oz 21014 (bulk pack) are plenty.

Regarding SuperLube use in the IZH46 - how do folks actually apply it? The piston doesn't actually emerge from the compression cylinder far enough to smear the grease inside the seal where it needs to be. Do folks pull the pin(s) and partially extract the piston? Or can you just pop a tiny dab into the air intake port and fire a few empty cycles?

-TT- wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 9:49 am Regarding SuperLube use in the IZH46 - how do folks actually apply it? The piston doesn't actually emerge from the compression cylinder far enough to smear the grease inside the seal where it needs to be. Do folks pull the pin(s) and partially extract the piston? Or can you just pop a tiny dab into the air intake port and fire a few empty cycles?

I do it by pushing out the pins, and then pushing the piston all the way to the rear. That gives me access to get a Qtip with grease on it all over inside the compression tube. I then lube the pins and sliding surfaces of the cocking linkage and put the pins back in.

The team I help coach used to have over a dozen IZH's they shot for years. The top gunsmith who serviced them at Air Venturi recommended air tool oil for the piston. We never had a problem.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Wed Apr 06, 2022 9:37 am This problem comes up regularly. Super-Lube is a brand, and they make both silicone & non-silicone lubricants. To make matters more confusing, they also use different part numbers for the same stuff in different packaging. You want the non-silicone synthetic grease. For the amounts you will need for an air pistol, the 1/2 oz #21010 (blister pack) or 1/2 oz 21014 (bulk pack) are plenty.

I stand corrected. Thanks.

hBN = Hexagonal Boron Nitride

aka "Dry Lube."

Can be mixed with 99% isopropyl alcohol (1/2tsp per 10oz). Then applied with Q-tip. Let alcohol evaporate. Doesn't cover every application, but in instances can be the perfect solution. Also used to coat projectiles (in lieu of tungsten disulfide). Microlubrol product is 0.5 µm diameter; I've got a big bag of 70 nanometer, I got from Canada.

Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/MICROLUBROL-Hexa ... 100&sr=8-4

I have NEVER heard anyone recommend lubricating an air gun of any sort with any kind of dry lubricant. I'm not saying it won't work, but I would proceed with caution. As a lubricant for the metal to metal bits, it should be fine, but I'm not at all sure how it will work on O-rings & seals.

Oldbear wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 2:07 amI now have three guns that quit holding pressure in quick order (Beeman P17, AV V-10 & AV 46M).

The three pistols are single stroke pnuematics, once cocked, don't leave them pressurized for more than five minutes.

I've been using mineral oil for the Gamo Compact (sold already) and the P17 (over 4000 shots) with no problems, and the Izzy with FWB special grease.

Your particular P17 might have a sharp edge in the intake air hole, causing a small cut on the o-ring when cocking.

I used pellgun oil on the metal trigger mechanism (sears), and cleaned as much of the grease out of the cylinder as I could. I added nothing to it. The rubber seal on my original Izh-46 lasted for at least 14,000 shots (until I sold it). In theory, silicone oil should help maintain rubber, (it works on gas masks) but in practice a very thin coating of any decent lubricant (often supplied originally at the factory) will be sufficient. The valve section of the Izzy operates best when completely dry.

I've always use ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Can't hurt any seals or o-rings. Transmission are full of o-rings and nylon type devices, switches, and normally run at about 250 F degrees. ATF is really benign.

My IZH 46M seems to like air tool oil.