TargetTalk

Hammer won't reset. Anyone have instructions on how to adjust the trigger back to factory settings?

Start here: http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spfwb93.htm

There is a link to the full manual down at the bottom. The cutaway diagram of the trigger looks a bit like a Pardini SP. If you try to shorten the first stage too much on an SP without also adjusting the sear engagement, it won't reset.

Suggest you do the inital set up with the side plate off, so you can see how it all works.
Most shooters set the 2nd stage point up incorrectly and it causes let off problems.
The 2nd stage can be seen with the side plate off.
Do not try to set a "break like glass" trigger as the FWB will not hold this setting for very long.
Have a small amount to second stage travel set on the sear.
With the basic setting done, re-fit the side plate and do the setting again to check with the pins supported.

https://www.feinwerkbau.de/en/Service-D ... duct-range

Thanks for the replies. Have the manual as well as a bunch of various posts from numerous sources. Accordingly, adjustment itself isn't necessarily a problem other than perhaps with the adjuster.

While checking adjustments and cleaning with the grip off, I noticed that the small pins on each side of the sight base has backed out and the base was no longer seated properly. That was because I could not get the grip to go high enough to be able to screw it back on so I investigated. After remounting the base with the pins fully inserted, all is well. No more hammer follow and the grip is properly mounted.

Haven't investigated this further, but it seems strange that the sight base would have anything to do with the hammer's ability to reset.

Taking the side plate off is a great idea. With it on, it is very difficult to really appreciate what each of some of the adjustment screws affect.

I constantly alternate between the AW93 and a MG2 EVO RF, Walther GSP Expert, and a Colt 1911 with a Nelson conversion. While they all may have some very basic similarities, there is always something of a learning curve when going from one to the other. Each has an aspect or two that I prefer over the other three. For me, that is part of the fun in alternating.

Probably should take notes and refer to them when dealing with each.

Thanks again

There's a spring on the left side of the grip, directly rearwards of the trigger, which can contact the inner surface and cause the trigger bar to hang up slightly. It can actually add some drag to the trigger feel, as well.

I shaved off some wood on the inside of the grip to allow more clearance. You can also flip the spring over, so the hooks lie inside the frame instead of outside, which is easy to try.