TargetTalk

I don't like the feel of the trigger blade of the CM84E. I have short fingers and the natural point of contact is its edge.
For the Toz I have hacked a delrin blade that is offset and has a center nub (https://imgur.com/LZ16N1N). I also use it slightly rotated.
On the Morini even just turning the blade prevents the pistol from firing (because of the light barrier of the electronic trigger?).
Any suggestions? I can't find any alternatives online. Thanks

Ideally, the trigger should be pulled straight to the rear, along an axis parallel to and directly below the barrel. Otherwise you end up pulling the pistol sideways a small amount. It's less noticeable on a free pistol because of the low force, but it's still there.

It sounds to me like the trigger is too far forward relative to the grip, and/or the grip is too fat, and you can't reach the trigger properly. If you moved the trigger sideways by rotating it, the tip of your finger should still block the light for the safety system. If that isn't happening, it sounds like your finger is WAY too far off axis.

My wife has very small hands, and couldn't reach the trigger on her MatchGUN MG2. I 3D printed one that sits further back. It might be possible to do something similar for the CM84E, but it would either need a hole for the light to pass through, or it would need to be a plastic that is infrared transparent, which could be tricky.

I'd start by taking a careful look at the grip & how it interacts with your finger position.

I've often wondered why makers of e-trigger pistols haven't eliminated the traditional trigger blade altogether and replaced it with a pushbutton extending forward from the frame. It could be provided with a variety of "heads" which would give the shooter a choice of reach, size and texture. It would eliminate all deviations from straight back and directly under the barrel.

> and/or the grip is too fat

Thanks, the meaty paws and the fat grip are likely to be the main cause and at some point I will have to start working on the grip.
I am playing with swapping the trigger blade mostly because changes there are (for me) much easier to reverse.

> it would need to be a plastic that is infrared transparent

This is a great idea. I have some that I could experiment with...
I was also thinking about a cylindrical rod kind of blade, with an o-ring for the nub, like in the Hammerli AR20.

> If you moved the trigger sideways by rotating it, the tip of your finger should still block the light for the safety system.
> If that isn't happening, it sounds like your finger is WAY too far off axis.

I suspect that the finger must block some but not all the IR beam for the pistol to fire. I need to understand this better.
The trigger has thin vertical slots and turning it slightly may have blocked the beam completely.

> I suspect that the finger must block some but not all the IR beam for the pistol to fire.

Definitely wrong on this. Completely blocking either the IR receiver or the IR LED seem to work fine.
No idea what happened at the range when I tried to rotate the trigger.

gimgim wrote: ↑Mon Jul 27, 2020 1:00 pm I suspect that the finger must block some but not all the IR beam for the pistol to fire. I need to understand this better.

It's exactly the opposite! Your finger is what should break the light beam.
From the manual:
https://www.morini.ch/app/download/1189 ... 1551976909

2. Loading and firing (Fig. 2)
2.1 Pull the breech (cocking) lever (1) firmly upwards to its top position, this is important as otherwise the firing
pin will not be cocked, and push it down in to the loading position where the extractor is flush with the
cartridge chamber.
2.2 Insert a .22 l.r. cartridge in to the chamber.
2.3 Close the breech (2) fully down using the cocking lever (1) paying attention that your trigger finger is out of
the optical sensor line (Fig. 3 (2)), otherwise the shot may be fired accidentally caused by the vibration during
the loading procedure, especially if the trigger adjustment is set too fine. (...)
2.4 To fire the shot, pull the trigger. Always pay attention that your finger interrupts the optical sensor (Fig. 3
(2)).

I made several trigger blades for the CM84e, and for the optical safety to work, the trigger blade had to have some slots or holes drilled through.
Otherwise if you closed the gun to hard, it would fire because the light beam was permanently interrupted.

Hope this helps

One other thing to be careful of is rotating the trigger shoe.
It is possible that the flat base when rotated off centreline can hit the frame preventing trigger activation.

Maybe you can see if these guys can manufacture one for you. I used one on a walther SSP very recently
https://www.lottessporttechnik.de/produkte/putter-se/

Rudi

Thank you all for the suggestions.

After spending some time adjusting the stock trigger with the help of a second person I think I found a setting that feels better.
One thing that bothered me was a missing nub I could use as a reference and that problem was easily solved by rolling a small o-ring on the stock trigger blade.