TargetTalk

I have just converted the toz to a floating barrel.
If there is any interest, I can post a few pictures and the file for the 3D printed part.
Enjoy

I do have to say, gimgim, that looks pretty slick. I would be interested to see how you did I it.

Excuse my ignorance, but can you explain in more detail what this change entails and why? Thanks!

> I do have to say, gimgim, that looks pretty slick.

Thanks!

> Excuse my ignorance, but can you explain in more detail what this change entails and why? Thanks!

I don't think there is any improvement in precision (nothing I can experience at my level, at least), but I like the look of it, it makes the pistol 75g lighter by removing the wood and the clamp that secures the trigger "shelf" to the barrel. The mod is simple, it just adds 4 set screws (2 per side).
I also want to experiment with the 3D printer cover, a long term project is to move the breech lever to the top and use a magnet to lock it to the 3D printed cover.

Before:


Marking the position for the set screws (4 screws M2.5 x 3mm)



Holes and dimples on the trigger shelf drilled


Tapping


Screws in place


Final result

I don't think I could do this with my files and big hammer.

I did mine with a shortened .223 case and left the "guts" showing.

That forearm sure was ugly.

Deleted

> I did mine with a shortened .223 case and left the "guts" showing.

I did something similar (minus the guts showing) before adding the set screws:



> I don't think I could do this with my files and big hammer.

The frame is REALLY hard. I broke several regular bits, then cobalt, before going carbide.
And then three taps (two had to be removed with an improvised homemade EDM).

Where I work we have access to a nice high-end machine shop that I could have used, but there are strict rules about bringing weapons on the premises and I don't have a wrench to remove the barrel.

Thanks a lot for the explanation and the extra pictures @gimgim

neat will have to add this to my toz. what size did you drill and tap?

Christopher Miceli wrote: ↑Sun Feb 10, 2019 8:43 am what size did you drill and tap?

I drilled 2.0mm (I think it should have been 2.1mm, but couldn't easily - read cheaply :-) - find fractional bits) and tapped for M2.5.
Screws, taps, and bits were no more than $15 USD; the cover, 3D printed by an online service was $6.

sweet 2.5mm what length did you go with?

3mm is perfect, tried 4mm as well but they stick out a little.
I drilled "dimples' on the shelf for the pointy screws to grab.

I have been asked to share the stl file for the 3D printed part, here it is.
Here are some preview images https://imgur.com/a/k3sBend, you can also load the unzipped stl file in any online stl viewer.

One note: I have commissioned this work to a young talented mechanical engineer. It's now free for you to use and print it. If you find it useful, please send him some Paypal love (Zechariah Dahm - dahm.ze@gmail.com). Zach may also be available for some custom work; I am not affiliated, but I was really happy with price, outcome, and turnaround.
If you make any modification (I was thinking at some point about making the shelf longer and add space for some weights) please share.
Thanks.

Great work!

I did the same for my old Hämmerli 150, a few years ago. Picture here: https://www.instagram.com/p/4j9-VUysK5/

If anyone's interested in 3D files for this one, let me know and I'll see what I can dig out.

> I did the same for my old Hämmerli 150, a few years ago. Picture here: https://www.instagram.com/p/4j9-VUysK5/

I can't believe how similar the 3D parts are

That was my reaction too, but I took inspiration from aftermarket weights / front-ends for Toz'es when I designed mine. But it's cool that the fronts ended up being just the same :)

Anyways, good job man!