TargetTalk

How do you clean your MG2 ?

Today, I had my first training with my brand new MG2E. In my opinion the gun is a dream. Handling, grip, weight, balance and trigger – almost like an air match pistol.

The problem appeared after I finished shooting: How to clean the barrel?
I brought a “bore snake” kind of gadget along, but how to get the brass tip through the cartridge chamber? With the chamber fully open and locked, there were too many mechanical parts in the way, and inserting a brass rod with 20 mm length was far from possible.
At home, I cut a piece of plastic to the right length to place it between the slide and the weights at the muzzle. With the slide in this position, I had a pretty good access to the chamber before all the mechanical parts jump up.
Afterwards, I shortened the brass tip by 5 mm and I could get it through the barrel!!!
Happy that I solved this problem, I grabbed the line and started to pull…
… I suddenly realized that there is another metal part inside the snake. It was of about the same length as the tip and by far too long to make its way through all this fine example of mechanical engineering. This rod seems to hold a brass brush inside the snake

So how to clean this gun?
I am a beginner in shooting. And one of the most frequent advises I got was NOT to clean the barrel from the muzzle towards the chamber. It hurts the crown and the gun loses its accuracy.
But how else can I clean this MG2???

Not this “disassemble and clean completely” thing after some hundred rounds, but the simple and quick cleaning after each training.
How do you do this?

Klaus

I'm not that familiar with the MG2, but a "Patch Worm" might work better as a pull through cleaner. It's basically weed whacker cord with a button on the end, so it doesn't have any metal bits:

http://patchworm.com/small_cal.html

For regular light cleaning between a full disassembly, the most important thing is to keep the chamber clean. On Benellis, Pardinis & Walthers, a bent .25 caliber rifle brush works well to get in through the ejection port:



Slide the brush in through the ejection port, rotate it as much as you can back & forth a few times, and then use the Patch Worm to clear the debris out. For a more thorough cleaning, you can do the same routine, followed by several patches with bore cleaner, and then a few dry patches. When you pull the Patch Woirm out the muzzle, try to make sure that you pull it STRAIGHT out. Don't let it drag on the edge of the rifling.

I clean my 45 pistol from the crown all the time with a muzzle guard

3 screws in the front, surrounding the dangerous end.
Take them out, pull barrel forward.

j danielsson wrote:3 screws in the front, surrounding the dangerous end.
Take them out, pull barrel forward.

^ +1. Go further and cleaning the elevator, etc is a bit of a crap-shoot; more moving parts than the space-shuttle (thankfully no o-rings involved). I've done the old and new models before.
Goes something like you pull the barrel out, and the the topstrap comes off and you can pull the spring guiderods out and the springs will also come flying out. That step in reverse is a bit of a shit.
Be careful not to overtorque the top strap otherwise you will pull the socket head-capscrews through it and/or strip out the frame. Just 'snug' is okay, inch-drive rattlegun not required.

Edit: An unrelated word of caution be careful with your MG-2, they can 'hide' a cartridge in the elevator mechanism.

SamEEE wrote:... more moving parts than the space-shuttle (thankfully no o-rings involved)...

But probably a similar mission completion rate?

j-team wrote:But probably a similar mission completion rate?

lol, I read here they contained ~2.5M moving parts! Marvellous.
https://www.nasa.gov/pdf/566250main_201 ... 0FACTS.pdf

Image credit: https://www.nasa.gov/centers/marshall/h ... -2011.html

3 screws in the front, surrounding the dangerous end.
Take them out, pull barrel forward.

This is the only advice to follow... and the best way of cleaning the breech and barrel.

The barrel will not accumulate lead and works best with no attention apart from occasionally pushing a few patches through.

The breech also only needs minimal cleaning with a bronze brush and something like Hoppes no. 9.

Removing the three screws and withdrawing the barrel and weight as a single unit has no bearing on the rest of the pistol and provides complete access to all barrel and breech cleaning needs with the removal process taking less than 30 seconds.

deadeyedick wrote:

3 screws in the front, surrounding the dangerous end.
Take them out, pull barrel forward.

This is the only advice to follow... and the best way of cleaning the breech and barrel.

The barrel will not accumulate lead and works best with no attention apart from occasionally pushing a few patches through.

The breech also only needs minimal cleaning with a bronze brush and something like Hoppes no. 9.

Removing the three screws and withdrawing the barrel and weight as a single unit has no bearing on the rest of the pistol and provides complete access to all barrel and breech cleaning needs with the removal process taking less than 30 seconds.

+1. I have also found mine likes to be kept wet (well oiled).

I ma currently cleaning mine (power of suggestion (lol).

1. Take off dot sight rail (you may not have one if using irons)

2. 3 screws in from of barrel. Remove barrel to clean as desired. I I use a cloth patch with Kroil)

3. 4 screws on top of frame/receiver (not sure what it is called). Remove top, lets me clean the inside mechanisms with Q tips, and to oil.

I probably do this every 1,000 rounds or so. Since I keep it pretty wet is seems to attract grime/etc a bit quicker.

Before removing the top, put it in dryfiring mode. My memory tells me stuff sometimes.

4 screws on top of frame/receiver (not sure what it is called).

Slide cover.

Just as an aside on O-rings.

I had a friend who at one time was the largest Pardini dealer in the country. He went to Italy to visit with Signor Pardini.

Since Pardini was using crap O-rings at the time, he brought with him a large sack of aero-space grade O-rings from the industry on Long Island.

Unfortunately, it was an O-ring failure that brought down the Challenger.

I have an MG2 S/N 137x that I bought new in 2007.

I remove the barrel for cleaning after every 100 rounds or so, and (less often) remove the Slide Cover to clean the Slide and other accessible areas.

I push small patches soaked in Hoppe's #9 through from the breech, and sometimes scrub the chamber with a bronze brush.

Less often, I drift out the retaining pin and remove the Firing Pin for thorough cleaning. My original firing pin got peened over at both ends, and I replaced it with a new one direct from Match Guns.


On two occasions, I soaked the lower assembly in Varsol and agitated it repeatedly, then blew it out with compressed air, and lubricated.

This past weekend, I cleaned both the Slide Cover assembly and the lower assembly in an ultrasonic bath, then blew it out with compressed air.

I usually use Remington Action Oil (spray can) for lubrication of the internal parts.


At one time, I had a problem with two cartridges popping up into the action. I was using Lapua ammo (forget which grade, but in the lower price range), and it seemed to have a very slick lubricant, and a different rounded nose shape from some other ammo. I think that contributed to the problem, although the main cause was probably accumulated crud under the cartridge lifter that prevented it from moving fully downwards, thus leaving the cartridge tipped slightly upwards at the nose. Since I cleaned it thoroughly (that was one of the solvent soakings), I have not had that problem.

Regards
Tim