TargetTalk

You've all had your chance to tell how wonderful your newish Eargesplitten Loudenboomer air pistol is. Not that we believe you.

So tell your tale of woe of the gun that you consider a worthless piece of shit. We might believe that.

That's probably my RWS (Diana) R10. I can't say I hate it, but it's very aggravating. My last set of seals were installed under RWS warranty by Neil Johnson back in the early 1990's. Those seals have disintegrated. I have new seals, but they need to be installed. Then there is the break-in. Plus, it has an odd (to me) grip angle.

I'm not ready to get rid of it, because of the build quality (I'm a sucker for that), but it's definitely at the bottom of the list of my air pistols, mostly because I can't shoot it! Beeman (or whoever) talked about adding moly to the cylinder bore after each tin, which I did, and now think that was incorrect given the seal materials.

My MG5 free pistol is an expensive paperweight. I have NEVER been able to get it to fire reliably. >80% of the time the trigger does not release the firing pin on the first attempt. Re-setting the trigger will usually result in the firing pin being released when the trigger is subsequently pulled (sometimes it requires a 3rd attempt), but >50% of the time the firing pin is released the result is a light-strike. When it does fire, there's usually a very ominous bulge in the case in the area of the extractor.

Dry firing is good practice, but it's nice when it's intentional. Trying to shoot in a match (or in practice) where almost every firing attempt ends up a dry-fire gets old pretty fast. 20 raises to get off 3 shots gives you quite a workout.

It's really a pity, as I love the balance, grip, sights, and trigger on this thing. It's just not usable as an actual firing firearm.

I remember once upon a time Free Pistol training with John Zurek. He brought out a brick of the most crap .22s I have ever encountered.

You never knew if it would go off or hang-fire or even shoot. The whole point of doing it was train for follow through.

I made him buy the beer afterwards. He whimpered.

I was very dissatisfied with the Rohm Twinmaster air pistol. I found it "less favorable".

https://www.google.no/search?q=twinmast ... kWpeZTBlCM:

Example of reverse evolution...
1980's FAS604 ->last version FAS604 -> FAS6004

If you have owned all three you know what I mean.

northpaw wrote:I was very dissatisfied with the Rohm Twinmaster air pistol. I found it "less favorable".

https://www.google.no/search?q=twinmast ... kWpeZTBlCM:

I still have mine, no comparison whatsoever with match air pistols, however, they're good target/plinking pistols. You wouldn't by any chance still have a spare CO2 kit lying around? Was it because of the low power and lousy double action trigger that you were dissatisfied?

TenMetrePeter wrote:Example of reverse evolution...
1980's FAS604 ->last version FAS604 -> FAS6004

If you have owned all three you know what I mean.

I don't think it's reverse evolution, it's cutting corners...

kevinweiho wrote: Was it because of the low power and lousy double action trigger that you were dissatisfied?

The trigger left something to be desired. As did build-quality, sights, grip angle and...

TomAmlie wrote:My MG5 free pistol is an expensive paperweight. I have NEVER been able to get it to fire reliably. >80% of the time the trigger does not release the firing pin on the first attempt. Re-setting the trigger will usually result in the firing pin being released when the trigger is subsequently pulled (sometimes it requires a 3rd attempt), but >50% of the time the firing pin is released the result is a light-strike. When it does fire, there's usually a very ominous bulge in the case in the area of the extractor.

Dry firing is good practice, but it's nice when it's intentional. Trying to shoot in a match (or in practice) where almost every firing attempt ends up a dry-fire gets old pretty fast. 20 raises to get off 3 shots gives you quite a workout.

It's really a pity, as I love the balance, grip, sights, and trigger on this thing. It's just not usable as an actual firing firearm.

Is an electronic model?

kevinweiho wrote:

TenMetrePeter wrote:Example of reverse evolution...
1980's FAS604 ->last version FAS604 -> FAS6004

If you have owned all three you know what I mean.

I don't think it's reverse evolution, it's cutting corners...

OK- Reverse Creation by divine Italian beings.

northpaw wrote:

kevinweiho wrote: Was it because of the low power and lousy double action trigger that you were dissatisfied?

The trigger left something to be desired. As did build-quality, sights, grip angle and...

That was exactly how I felt with my All-Rounder. The more I shot it, I got accustomed to these shortcomings. At least the Röhm's twinmaster barrels are Lothar Walther...

Ok, not a target pistol (not even close), but I once recieved a SIG Mosquito as part payment for a job I did...

What a P.O.S. It had the worlds worse trigger, when you did manage to pull it half the time it just went click, when it did fire it mostly didn't cycle unless you used hypervelocity ammo. I decided to pull it apart to see if there was any chance of fixing it. Well, inside the plastic frame is a pot metal cast clamshell arrangement that spills is guts when you take it apart. The sear and sear spring are one and the same, just a bit of bent spring steel, when you pull (and I mean really pull) the trigger it just gets bent out of the way until the hammer drops. I decided that it wasn't worth the effort so spent the next few hours trying to get all the little pins and springs to align at the same time to get the two halves of the clamshell back together, you need about 5 hands to do this.

So, if you are ever tempted, don't be! and if you do have one, sorry to hear that and don't ever take it apart!

ances wrote:

TomAmlie wrote:My MG5 free pistol is an expensive paperweight. I have NEVER been able to get it to fire reliably. >80% of the time the trigger does not release the firing pin on the first attempt. Re-setting the trigger will usually result in the firing pin being released when the trigger is subsequently pulled (sometimes it requires a 3rd attempt), but >50% of the time the firing pin is released the result is a light-strike. When it does fire, there's usually a very ominous bulge in the case in the area of the extractor.

Dry firing is good practice, but it's nice when it's intentional. Trying to shoot in a match (or in practice) where almost every firing attempt ends up a dry-fire gets old pretty fast. 20 raises to get off 3 shots gives you quite a workout.

It's really a pity, as I love the balance, grip, sights, and trigger on this thing. It's just not usable as an actual firing firearm.

Is an electronic model?

No, mechanical.

TomAmlie wrote: My MG5 free pistol ... 80% of the time the trigger does not release the firing pin on the first attempt. Re-setting the trigger will usually result in the firing pin being released when the trigger is subsequently pulled (sometimes it requires a 3rd attempt), but 50% of the time the firing pin is released the result is a light-strike.

The MG 5 is , for an experienced targeteer (and so are you, I recon), relatively easy to (partly) dismantle to get access to the internal parts. Have you tried to remedy the trouble? Or had an qualified gunsmith look into the trouble?

I have owned an MG 5 for years, fired it a lot, and it works ok. According to my memory the gun has never misfired.

TomAmlie wrote: When it does fire, there's usually a very ominous bulge in the case in the area of the extractor.

Does the cartridge enter the chamber properly (deep enough)? If the cartridge does not, the gun is designet not to fire, - a safety device.
I recommend to have the headspace measured. The prominent bulge may indicate the headspace could be incorrect. To have the chamber, (or chamber cone only?) reamed slightly could be a remedy if the headspace is to tight.

northpaw wrote:

TomAmlie wrote: My MG5 free pistol ... 80% of the time the trigger does not release the firing pin on the first attempt. Re-setting the trigger will usually result in the firing pin being released when the trigger is subsequently pulled (sometimes it requires a 3rd attempt), but 50% of the time the firing pin is released the result is a light-strike.

The MG 5 is , for an experienced targeteer (and so are you, I recon), relatively easy to (partly) dismantle to get access to the internal parts. Have you tried to remedy the trouble? Or had an qualified gunsmith look into the trouble?

I have owned an MG 5 for years, fired it a lot, and it works ok. According to my memory the gun has never misfired.

TomAmlie wrote: When it does fire, there's usually a very ominous bulge in the case in the area of the extractor.

Does the cartridge enter the chamber properly (deep enough)? If the cartridge does not, the gun is designet not to fire, - a safety device.
I recommend to have the headspace measured. The prominent bulge may indicate the headspace could be incorrect. To have the chamber, (or chamber cone only?) reamed slightly could be a remedy if the headspace is to tight.

I've disassembled, tinkered, and reassembled this thing more times than I care to count. Stefano at Matchguns was very helpful for a while in exchanging parts with me via mail trying to find the weak link, but eventually gave up.

Headspace is fine; the problem seems to be that the extractor notch is too deep so the case side/shoulder is unsupported. Moving the barrel rearward a touch pivots the extractor up into a better position, but then the bolt won't close. As far as the light strikes are concerned I think the chamber shoulder is machined too deep, so the cartridge doesn't seat fully against the shoulder even with the bolt fully closed. That means when the firing pin strikes some of the energy is used up pushing the cartridge against the shoulder rather than firing the primer. If I keep it scrupulously clean (I mean, cleaning out the chamber shoulder every few shots) and push the cartridge home with my thumb with a great deal of force, I can (mostly) solve the light strike problem, but it doesn't do anything with the "non-release of the firing pin" problem or the "ominous bulge" problem.

Long tale of woe here: http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php ... &hilit=mg5

TomAmlie wrote: Stefano at Matchguns was very helpful for a while in exchanging parts with me via mail trying to find the weak link, but eventually gave up.

Stefano C. of the Matchguns company is most helpful when MG gunowners are encountering problems with their guns.
I think there are two options:
1. Have the barrel set back a fraction of an inch, - chamber re-reamed, - and proper extractor-slot milled.
2. Get a replacement barrel. As this appears to be a fauly barrel from MGs sub-contractor, maybe you could get a replacement barrel at come discount?

Not a target gun, but I had tons of problems with Chiappa .22LR upper for AR15. Ended up selling it (for scrap metal, I guess), and ever since I use my 10/22 builds for all my .22 rifle needs.
Now I have a simple way to avoid problems like that. It's easy - do your research before you buy, rent it or borrow from a friend and try it out before you spend a fortune on it.