Jon, On my old website I stripped and repaired a 6/G/M. They were badged Diana, or RWS or Original.
I have pm'd you with a link to the complete article which will be on my google drive for a short while.
my description of the trigger was as follows
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Important: Always test the trigger by firing the loaded pistol; never fire the pistol "dry" or you may damage the new seal. This means you need to have a safe backstop on the bench, such as a shoe box full of old socks or an empty baked bean tin with an inch of plasticene or soft putty in the bottom.
The trigger adjustment is simple and limited.
The first screw is a lock screw for the compound adjusting screw, so loosen it before adjusting the trigger and tighten it afterwards.
The actual break point of the trigger cannot be adjusted; it is controlled by the length of the sear faces. Inless you have a Dremel to remove material and a welder to stick it back on, leave it!.
The compound screw is all there is to adjust.
The outer screw affects the position of the second stage.
Too far in and there is single stage, heavy, or even locked.
Too far out and single stage, light (too light for the 500g minimum.
The trick is to take off the frame so you can see under the compound screw and wind in the outer screw until there is a small gap between the trigger and the ball bearing in the centre of the compound screw. That gap gives the first stage travel.
The inner screw increases the tension of the spring behind the ball bearing. Screw it in to increase trigger weight, and also the weight differential between first and second stages. I prefer to start it in to max depth then back off a turn.
That will give you the max weight differential (or feel) between first and second stages.
Now screw out the outer screw a bit at a time until the movement after engaging the second stage before release of trigger is at a minimum (and therefore first stage movement is maximum)
Hope it helps.
(Anyone wants it for the Ten P files I will gladly donate it - it will need the html tweaking a bit)