TargetTalk

I have problem with LP50 (mechanical) trigger. The gun is a nightmare to shoot because 2nd stage travel is so long. Is it possible to make it more "dry"? I didn't found anything of the sear adjustment screw on the manual or the internet.

Thanks,

cm

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spstlp50.htm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT8h3_2eCrc

Unfortunately, neither the written nor video instructions have anything to say about the 2nd stage. On mine, there is a small but definite "roll" to the second stage before it fires. I would also like a crisper release, but I have never been able to find any info on how to improve it, so I just live with it.

There is definitely a video on setting the second stage, involves cocking, screwing the sears setting screw until it drops the hammer, then backing it off half a turn. Google it, called something like setting the trigger on lp50.

That sets the release point, but it's not clear how that relates to the second stage. I suppose it might reduce the length of the 2nd stage, but it depends on how the internal mechanism works. I have several pistols where the sear engagement is somewhat independent of the 1st vs 2nd stage. There certainly isn't a separate adjustment for the weight of the 1st vs 2nd stage on the LP50.

I may play with it the next time I get mine out. My 2nd stage has been tolerable, and I generally don't like messing with screws the factory put threadlocker on unless I have a better understanding of the inner workings.

I'd love to see a diagram of the guts of the LP50 trigger.

Not sure where I read it, but I think Stage 2 is set at 500g..cant go below. If you find any solution, please let me know. I would like to set a 1000g trigger with 2nd stage as 200g or so. Brings to closer to Walther SSP :-)

OK, looks like different things being confused here.
First post asks about second stage travel. Travel. Not weight. That is the screw that adjust the sear let off point. Want less travel want a crisp trigger? That's your baby right there.

Later post talks about weight.
Second stage weight is controlled by a vertical screw behind the trigger that compresses a spring. Most older lp50s I've come across (in uk) have the lighter spring in there which means max of about 450 grams. Yes, less than 500, so they get screwed right in and the gun still fails the 500g weight test at a precision shoot. Change the spring and you can set it between about 350 and 700, or get another spring to go INSIDE the outer spring and you can then get 1000g second stage.

I love my lp50, get then sear set right and the thing is brilliant to shoot, have it set badly and the trigger creap is a bit yucky, but if you polish the bit that slides you can make it acceptable, if you want that roll over feel. DO NOT modify the sear (the bit at the top) in any way. A spot of black grease if you have to, but do not attempt to polish or change the metal there.

If it was recommended to adjust engagement it would surely be here but it isn't.
I suspect too short a sear engagement would result in machine gunning.

The Steyr video linked to above shows you how to adjust the sear engagement. They include a "backoff" of 3/4 of a turn, which presumably is the factory setting for safe operation. That's also probably why there is a bit of creep in the second stage. I've adjusted a lot of sears, and a 1/4 turn backoff is more common.

The question is: how conservative is that adjustment, and where is YOUR specific pistol set?

At least with an air gun, machine-gunning is less likely due to lower shock on firing, and the damage that might result is fairly small. Still, if you decide to go below 3/4 of a turn, I'd only load 2 pellets at a time until you are certain it's safe.

I had a friend's LP50 that went machine gun. It was quite fun!!! Then I had to adjust it... :(

Just adjust the sear like you would a normal pistol and test.
If it is still too little add a quarter turn at the time.

Thanks all!

I adjusted the trigger as told on the video link above. Now it's OK, not great but OK :)

I have an LP 10 and I was wondering is the trigger on the LP 50 different in terms of being "crisp" ?

paulmcallister wrote:I have an LP 10 and I was wondering is the trigger on the LP 50 different in terms of being "crisp" ?

The LP10 and LP50 triggers are different designs.

I have never tried an LP50 (or LP5) that had a trigger anywhere near as good as an LP10.

David Levene wrote:

paulmcallister wrote:I have an LP 10 and I was wondering is the trigger on the LP 50 different in terms of being "crisp" ?

The LP10 and LP50 triggers are different designs.
I have never tried an LP50 (or LP5) that had a trigger anywhere near as good as an LP10.

The trigger on the LP50 needs to have more travel to be able to reset for the next shot. Also, the breaking point is not as crisp as an LP10.
The LP50 can have a great trigger, properly adjusted, but I never got it to rival the trigger on the LP10.
But, before you start to think the trigger on a LP50 is rubbish, if you give a grade of 100 to the trigger on the LP10, the LP50 will be in the lower 90's.

The LP50 (and the LP5) was designed for shooting 5 pellets in a rapid maner.
For slow precision shooting, you have the LP1, LP2, LP10, EVO...

Hope this helps

Coolmeester wrote:Thanks all!

I adjusted the trigger as told on the video link above. Now it's OK, not great but OK :)

I watched the video but I didn't dare to touch the screw that is sealed with red lacquer...

Should I stop worrying and just go for it?

For some reason a screw that is not mentioned in the manual and has been sealed seems like it's something that I'm not supposed to touch ;)

I have a couple of months old LP50 and I'm thinking of sending it back for repairs... the second stage travel is awful and with the adjustments I've tried I've only managed to make it worse (and then back to just awful again) :)

I did manage to get some weird rubber banding out of it too. The second stage travel felt like a rubber band at random or even getting stuck again before firing. I'm guessing this might have been because of too fine adjustments of the screws... Though someone suspected that there might be something wrong with with the pistol.

I was hoping to get a gun that I could use for both rapid fire and regular 10m pistol and the Steyr LP50s that I tried didn't have the trigger like this. (They weren't as awesome as my old Feinwerkbau C20, but manageable)

Jarmo wrote:

Coolmeester wrote:Thanks all!

Should I stop worrying and just go for it?

In my opinion, yes. But you know your level of mechanical competence. The trigger mechanism is pretty simple - I suggest you try to draw it to make sure you understand what each screw does - if you cant do that, I suggest you don't touch.

Be careful with losing the springs... work over a tray so anything that falls out doesn't go astray.

David Levene wrote:

paulmcallister wrote:I have an LP 10 and I was wondering is the trigger on the LP 50 different in terms of being "crisp" ?

The LP10 and LP50 triggers are different designs.

I have never tried an LP50 (or LP5) that had a trigger anywhere near as good as an LP10.

You have not been lucky enough to try a LP50 E? A joy to shoot and has gone 10 000 without any fault.

Reinhamre wrote:

David Levene wrote:

paulmcallister wrote:I have an LP 10 and I was wondering is the trigger on the LP 50 different in terms of being "crisp" ?

The LP10 and LP50 triggers are different designs.

I have never tried an LP50 (or LP5) that had a trigger anywhere near as good as an LP10.

You have not been lucky enough to try a LP50 E? A joy to shoot and has gone 10 000 without any fault.

Oh, you're the person who's got the reliable one ;-)

I've seen so many that double-tap that I'm not surprised that Steyr stopped making it.

Training standard pistol 20 sek strings. 2000 pellets / week and NO problem. 375/567 40/60 is my personal best. And that is what I can do on slow fire on a good day, going to 73 years next time. Lucky me :-)

I remember "Tyco" wrote something about it being a bit sensitive of HOW the trigger unit is mounted.
Guess I am lucky here!

mctrucky wrote:

Jarmo wrote:

Coolmeester wrote:Thanks all!

Should I stop worrying and just go for it?

In my opinion, yes. But you know your level of mechanical competence. The trigger mechanism is pretty simple - I suggest you try to draw it to make sure you understand what each screw does - if you cant do that, I suggest you don't touch.

Be careful with losing the springs... work over a tray so anything that falls out doesn't go astray.

Didn't have to guts to touch the sealed screw by myself and gave it to a gunsmith (who told me that I'm not supposed to touch the sealed screw unless I know exactly what I'm doing :P) and he noticed that apparently the screw had been damaged at the factory and it was sealed in place with the lacquer.

Kinda surprising they would ship a pistol like that, but the gunsmith said that there has been quite a lot of these quality control issues with Steyr lately.

Just my luck to invest in a new pistol and end up having a broken one ;)