TargetTalk

I didn't see any posts on this. Is there a "red dot" or reflex sight that has no, or negligible Parallax Error at 50ft? I have several makes, and they all have enough error to cause concern. Simple test, sand bag the pistol/rifle, move your head left to right. It can be as much as 1 to 2 rings NRA target.
Looking forward to your responses....

GRM

Second the question ..... I have four matchdots, one AP, two 22s, and a 44 magnum, and it seems that the dot appears to move with head placement?? I thought a selling point was "no parallax".... not really complaining, just observing.

I've been waiting for the right time to post my solution to this. I had the same concern and did a lot of research for a stick-on reticle. I finally found what I was looking for at Lancaster Archery. It is a frosted reticle which allows the 4 arms to be peeled off leaving only a circle. I line the dot up in the circle for repeatability. An added bonus is that when I use the bigger dot, the whole reticle lights up when the dot is in the center.



Buy the smaller size assortment. http://www.lancasterarchery.com/gunstar ... small.html

No cheap dot sight is parallaxfree. No matter what their sales add says.
I believe the expensive Doctor sights are parallax free
Dont know at what distances though

aprilian wrote:...when I use the bigger dot, the whole reticle lights up when the dot is in the center.

Interesting solution! I can see how it keeps you on-center. So you put it on the rear lens?

Yes. I tried both front and rear, rear was much better.

So, a couple more questions. I assume you place the ring so that the red dot appears centered in it. How do you get it there without endless placement/re-placement? I guess the rear location helps that by simply trying for dead-center.

And, do you find the extra circle distracting? Especially if the dot doesn't land dead-center in it?

With that accomplished, it does seem a nice way to bring the eye to the heart of the bull, and straight through the optic without parallax. That same archery supplier sells "Frost" color ring-only decals too, btw: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/precisi ... ecals.html

-TT- wrote:So, a couple more questions. I assume you place the ring so that the red dot appears centered in it. How do you get it there without endless placement/re-placement? it doesn't matter, you are going for repeatability 0 - get close and you are good to go I guess the rear location helps that by simply trying for dead-center.

And, do you find the extra circle distracting? No Especially if the dot doesn't land dead-center in it? repeatability is the goal - reticle gets you there as long as you use it the same every time

With that accomplished, it does seem a nice way to bring the eye to the heart of the bull, and straight through the optic without parallax. That same archery supplier sells "Frost" color ring-only decals too, btw: http://www.lancasterarchery.com/precisi ... ecals.html

It also helps me in not focusing on the bull, When I focus on the bull first and then the reticle, it reduces my tendency to try to "snatch" a shot.

aprilian wrote:It also helps me in not focusing on the bull, When I focus on the bull first and then the reticle, it reduces my tendency to try to "snatch" a shot.

13 time national champion disagrees, but you must do what works for you.
"Distilled to its essence, Zins’ theories on this are as follows. When using iron sights focus on the front sight, but when using a dot focus on the target."

- See more at: http://www.personaldefenseworld.com/201 ... ian-zins-1

- Dave

There are a lot of people who focus on the dot and some on the target and my guess is it depends on the person. When I was in the AMU in 1965 the coaches said that it is best with iron sights to only look and focus on the front sight and ignore the target because the iris of our eyes being round will automatically center it and trigger pull was the only thing to concentrate on because we must trust our area of wobble whatever it was. For me this was definitely true in slow fire but I could actually aim at the target for the short line and do better just squeezing the trigger smoothly while keeping my aim which was probably due to the fact that I wouldn't wobble out of the 10 ring at 25 yards but would at 50.

We were also told that Blankenship who was the best Bullseye shooter at the time told people to only apply trigger pressure when the sights were in the center and not to watch only the front sight. The coaches disagreed with this vehemently saying that he only claimed this so everyone would do it wrong and not beat him. Personally I think he did this and for the rest of us it just didn't work because our area of wobble was larger than his.

I think the most important thing is to never change from the target back to the dot during a shot. If you are keeping your concentration on either of these and not wavering I don't think parallax will bother you unless it is really bad because you will keep the dot in the center of the scope anyway. The older you get the harder this is, I think primarily because we don't see so well anymore and it is a struggle to stay concentrated on either the dot or the target and we have a large amount of wobble. Try each but not both at the same time.

Sometimes simpler is better. And in this case I personally believe that it is betterer.

With a 1" ultradot. the following works. It also works ok with the 30mm. Currently my 30mm has a 3/4 inch extension tube attached to the front. My 1" dots use lobsterbands.

http://www.starreloaders.com/edhall/nwo ... ancer.html