TargetTalk

I have a FWB P44 and a Morini 162. Sometimes it is extremely difficult to "unscrew" the air cylinder (maybe I am getting weaker as I age !). Does anyone recommend lubricating the threads? If so, what do you use? Thanks for any input.

While I am at it I also want to ask if anyone has a unique indoor range/backstop for practise. I just built a new one in my big garage and shoot between the cars to acquire 10 meters (not so risky after all) It has 1 1/2" of ballistic putty in the back and led lights. The whole thing is fastened on a garage cabinette (with wheels) for a place to keep targets, pellets, original gun boxes. I am pretty proud of it but I am sure there are some real clever folks on this forum who can show me something I can do to improve it even more. Let's see your set up.

Wow. Want those cars. And garage.

I only shoot on a Gehmann pistol trap (spring loaded) from the kitchen to the living room.

About your question on cylinders: I don't think there ever was a consensus on exactly which type of oil but from most people suggested a light synthetic oil on the male threads.

I think the current recommendation is a synthetic grease, not oil. Here is a very recent article by our host:

https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2016/10/ ... intenance/

The grease of choice seems to be "Super Lube"

Silicone Dive Grease 100% Pure Lubricant for Scuba Regulators works well,
available in small tubes.

Didn't your FWB P44 come with a small tube of "special grease"? That'll work for both threads and o-rings as well. "Super Lube" is also a very good grease, I'll second that.

David M wrote:Silicone Dive Grease 100% Pure Lubricant for Scuba Regulators works well,
available in small tubes.

Yes, good for the o-rings, but may cause galling on the threads.

kevinweiho wrote:

David M wrote:Silicone Dive Grease 100% Pure Lubricant for Scuba Regulators works well,
available in small tubes.

Yes, good for the o-rings, but may cause galling on the threads.

100% agree. I use Synthetic Teflon grease. OK on both seals and thread.

kevinweiho wrote:

David M wrote:Silicone Dive Grease 100% Pure Lubricant for Scuba Regulators works well,
available in small tubes.

Yes, good for the o-rings, but may cause galling on the threads.

Had that happen on both a Steyr and a Morini after using 100% dive grease.

Indeed never use silicone grease on the threads of your air cylinder. I used to do this on a Steyr airpistol and an FWB airrifle thereby almost making it impossible to unscrew the air cylinder after a while.

I've switched to a synthetic grease such as GunTec Liqui Moly and has not yet experienced any galling or 'stuck' air cylinders.

David Levene wrote:

kevinweiho wrote:

David M wrote:Silicone Dive Grease 100% Pure Lubricant for Scuba Regulators works well,
available in small tubes.

Yes, good for the o-rings, but may cause galling on the threads.

Had that happen on both a Steyr and a Morini after using 100% dive grease.

Me too. Keep the dive grease for the o ring part. Aluminium threads gall with it. Best kept dry or tinyest smear of a high solid lubricant like moly paste, copper paste or graphite. Absolute miminum and never let it get into the inlet.

Will liquid graphite do .?.?

DustyJ wrote:Will liquid graphite do .?.?

I was thinking of lock lube powder lightly brushed into the threads with a toothbrush. Just a surface color.

Since I had the problems with the silicon grease, about once a year I put a drop of Break Free on a cleaning patch and wipe the gun thread with that. Never had a problem since.

DustyJ wrote:Will liquid graphite do .?.?

You can use graphite, and we have been using use a graphite based anti-seize stick from Loctite specifically designed for aluminum threads:

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product- ... 7939695617

However, it is a bit messy. Even with a light application, every time the cylinder is removed, it blows a black/silver film onto the cylinder, pistol & fill adapter.

I think we will be switching to Super Lube. It will be easier to apply, and although it may still get sprayed a bit, but it won't be as noticeable. It's available at almost any US hardware store, and Walmart sells a 1/2 oz tube for $8.

A tiny dab of anti-seize will do the job and last a long time. Tiny means about 1/4 of what you think you need.

It's really hard to get a small amount on the threads with the Loctite stick anti-seize. The material is like a hard wax, and not very sticky. When you scrape it on the threads, 3/4 of it just flakes off. That's another reason I think we'll switch to Super Lube. A regular grease will be much easier to apply and spread around in small quantities.

"anti sieze" also comes as copper grease and moly paste which can be applied and brushed into the threads with a toothbrush and wiped

Gwhite wrote:Here is a very recent article by our host:

https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2016/10/ ... intenance/

This article recommends to un thread the cylinder so that the regulator is relieved of pressure when not in use. Why? Many hunting type regulated PCP guns do not have removable cylinders and most users store their guns with air in them. Can't let air out the fill valve on most either as there is a check valve.

Also, if the cylinder is removed de-pressurizing the non-regulated side, doesn't the regulated side still contain pressurized air in the plenum between the regulator and the firing valve unless the remaining air is shot out after removing the cylinder?

wasatch wrote: This article recommends to un thread the cylinder so that the regulator is relieved of pressure when not in use. Why? Many hunting type regulated PCP guns do not have removable cylinders and most users store their guns with air in them. Can't let air out the fill valve on most either as there is a check valve.

Also, if the cylinder is removed de-pressurizing the non-regulated side, doesn't the regulated side still contain pressurized air in the plenum between the regulator and the firing valve unless the remaining air is shot out after removing the cylinder?

This thread on another forum talks about what happens when the hunting type pcp guns with removable cylinders have thread failures. Even with my limited technical understanding, it seems that thread failures will result in a very angry bottle rocket.

I don't have the technical knowledge to speak on the second paragraph.

That gun seems to have been a CO2 conversion to CA.

The question remains, why is it recommended to remove the cylinder from match air guns as the linked article recommends. I think it is unnecessary (because the cylinder can't be removed from many hunting type guns and they hold up just fine) and why cycle the threads putting unnecessary wear on them?