TargetTalk

I have an Izh-46m which I have shot and enjoyed for several months. It developed a problem and I sent it off to be repaired. Since its return it is so difficult to cock I have to put it over my thigh to push the pump lever far enough forward to cock the action. I wrote to the shop that did the work and was told it was working properly when they finished with it. So my question is, how difficult to cock are other Izzies? I don’t know of any other pistols in the area which I can compare mine to. I’m not a weakling but I am 78, but worked as a blacksmith for 20 odd years. Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated. I miss shooting the pistol.

It shouldn't take a lot of force to move the cocking lever all the way to it's forward position. You are doing two things: 1) pulling the piston forward (shouldn't take a lot of force), and cocking the firing mechanism (shouldn't take a lot of force).

You can separate the two actions by removing the link between between the two. This is #7 ("bar"). If you examine the right side of the pistol, there is a slot in the #2 "Slide latch". You want to move the latch and the bar until you can rotate the bar out of the slot to the right. You can then remove the bar.

If you fell a "springy" resistance pulling the cocking lever forward, it sounds like the valve is closed and you are pulling a vacuum. Not sure what would cause that unless you are manually cocking the action before working the pump lever.

Charlie:
when you sent the pistol to Repairing, they changed the main seal?
if they changed the main seal, the gun becomes harder to cock.

I have the same gun, before changing the seals was very soft, after it became harder to cock but also improved potency.

Nano

What problem did the Izzy have before you sent it off to be repaired? Maybe when they reassembled the piston seal, they didn’t put enough lube? My gun cocks very smoothly, I always check to see that the compression chamber and all pivots are properly lubricated. (moly on the cocking arm linkage)

CharlieK,

I didn't like the amount of force needed to open the breach when cocking my MP-46M in the 'normal' way, so I now do the below :

1) Slide the breach release forward to release breach.

2) Open pump lever fully, then lift breach fully up (cocks trigger and closes valve).

3) Close pump lever, Load pellet and close breach.

This takes more time to explain than it does to do it. Works a treat and no 'bullying' of the pistol needed.

Have fun :)

Best regards

Russ

Normally there is a noticeable resistance at the end of a lever travel, which cocks the gun.

Gwhite,
Thanks. Will the pistol operate with that link removed or have I misunderstood you suggestion?

I mostly meant it as a diagnostic tool, but as long as you operate the loading gate in the right sequence, you don't need the link.

Without the link, you should be able to operate the lever solely to compress the air. It needs to get the air from someplace during the forward stroke. The only way it can do that is if the firing valve is open, which it will be after a shot is fired. However, if you fully raise the loading gate, that closes the valve, so you want to do that after you've moved the lever forward, but before you begin the pump stroke.

Basically, follow the sequence PhatMan described.

If you are having a hard time moving the pump handle forward initially, something is wrong. With the link in place, as you get near the end of the forward stroke, it has to pull the sliding latch forward to release the loading gate. That will increase the force required a little bit. If you are having a hard time pulling the cocking lever back, and the resistance increases as you go, that just means you got a good piston seal & everything is working normally.

Gwhite and Phatman,
Thanks to you both. The problem comes at the end of the pump stroke when the bolt, to use the terms from the manual, is being raised. Following Phatman's sequence works fine. Or it seems to be fine, I' m wheelchair bound currently and it will be a day or so until I can get to the pellets. but it blows air out the muzzle. I have looked closely at the gun and removing the right side looks like more than I should attempt. I would rather not have to send a box of part to the repair shop.

It sounds like the extra resistance is coming from compressing the spring that holds the sliding lock in place. Even if you open the bolt manually, you will still be fighting that spring. Removing the link bar is really pretty straight forward. In fact, if you cock it with the right side down, it can fall out the the pistol all by itself.

One thing you will want to check is the lube situation on the cam that cocks the pistol as the "bolt" is raised. When mine was dry it was rather difficult to cock. Once I dropped some oil in from the top it get much easier. You can see the mating surfaces when you look from the top with the bolt raised.