Steyr LP10E Misfire while cocking? Conundrum... RESOLVED!!!
Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:11 am
I've had this Steyr for several years with no issues.
Recently, when cocking the pistol, the electronic trigger fires.
No air is discharged.
It can take several tries to cock.
This is an intermittent problem...but is happening now at all live fire shooting sessons (2-3 times a week). It only started about a month ago.
Tried 2 different sets of fresh batteries, and checked the connection between the electronics in the grip and gun and the connector looks fine (no electrical/continuity testing done).
Annually, I'd say about 6500 pellets are fired along with 12-15000 dry fires (about 100-150 live fire a week, with double the number of dry fires weekly)
The gun has not been serviced in 3+ years.
I understand it is probably due--but I don't see how worn out seals could cause this type of problem. No airleaks of any kind.
However, I can't see how cocking would cause the trigger to "click" / fire.
No adjustments (trigger/grip/etc.) have been done to the gun other than the occasional click or 3 on the sights.
The gun works fine once it stays cocked--and by cocked, I mean the electronic trigger hasn't fired/clicked.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Chris
************CONUNDRUM RESOLVED! THANK YOU ALL!*********
A special THANK YOU to "therider" and "argus"
Your insight was right on target.
I ordered the parts in question from our forum host, Pilkguns, along with a "service kit" of parts.
***See attached image of parts lists ***
The red/pink are the repair parts. They were the culprit as near as I can tell--probably just worn out. All parts I reference are according to the parts Figure # in the mechanical drawings.
I'm glad I got screw #78, as the original got chewed up when I removed it. Figure parts #78 (screw) and #81 (spring) aren't really necessary, but since I was doing going to do a full service, I'm glad I got them replaced.
The green parts are what arrived as part of the "service kit" I asked for. Jennifer at Pilkguns was great to work with. It made the order really easy. When the parts arrived (each in their own plastic bag), I wrote down the mechanical drawing Figure # on each bag. This made it much easier to identify which parts go where. As a result, part 29.8 confused me a bit, as it isn't shown in the LP10E mechanical drawings, but IS shown in the LP10 drawings. It is inside the pressure regulator. I'm glad I had both sets of mechanical drawings from the Steyr website. Be very careful disassembling the pressure regulator as it is full of belleville spring washers--I used Figure #27(Grip Bar 40080200010) and slipped it into the bellville spring washer stack to keep the orientation and stacking order intact for later assembly. If you mess these up, just pack them up and send it all to PILKGUNS as regulators require special equipment to set up. I was especially extra careful to keep everything oriented the same way and in the same order.
Note the parts in the Yellow EXTRA section (my second parts order to our host-PILKGUNS). Despite my precautions, one of the Figure #68 springs disappeared when I took apart the recoil absorber. Neither I nor my eagle-eyed assistant saw this magic occur. So, I ordered 4 to replace all of those springs. Figure 29.11 and 30 are extra screws for the pressure regulator, as one of mine was buggered up from some previous work (of unknown origin-I bought the gone used), so I got a replacement and a spare. The other yellow parts are just some spare O-rings; the ones most exposed and likely to fail, but easily replaced.
Overall, the entire process took about 5 hours because I went very deliberately, and include the time reassembling the gun with the missing Figure #68 spring. I figure someone practiced could do it in under two hours (especially if they have parts on hand and aren't afraid to loose some). When I did install the Figure #68 springs (just remove rear sight and grip), I learned that you must install the rear sight screw back into the frame to reset the recoil absorber so you can properly adjust the recoil absorber spring per the video instructions.
Bottom line: Everything works great now! I appreciate all the Steyr companies drawings and videos, and most importantly, the help from the this forum. My son is very happy to have his gun back.
I think that sending the gun to PILKGUNS is probably best, and probably much quicker too, but I had fun doing this with my son - who was the official videographer, photographer, and eagle-eyed consultant during our initial disassembly-assembly. It was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
THANK YOU!
Chris
PS I also ordered some tools via Amazon to support this project!
1. Rennsteig Parallel Pin Punches with Sleeve (Pin Remover Tools) - 8 Piece Set
2. Mayhew Pro 25015 2mm Pilot Punch
3. Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set by Fixxxer LLC
4. Bondhus 20899 Balldriver GoldGuard Finish L-Wrench Double Pack, 38099 (1.5-10mm) and 37937 (.050-3/8-Inch) (all I used were all the keys between 1mm and 3mm)
Recently, when cocking the pistol, the electronic trigger fires.
No air is discharged.
It can take several tries to cock.
This is an intermittent problem...but is happening now at all live fire shooting sessons (2-3 times a week). It only started about a month ago.
Tried 2 different sets of fresh batteries, and checked the connection between the electronics in the grip and gun and the connector looks fine (no electrical/continuity testing done).
Annually, I'd say about 6500 pellets are fired along with 12-15000 dry fires (about 100-150 live fire a week, with double the number of dry fires weekly)
The gun has not been serviced in 3+ years.
I understand it is probably due--but I don't see how worn out seals could cause this type of problem. No airleaks of any kind.
However, I can't see how cocking would cause the trigger to "click" / fire.
No adjustments (trigger/grip/etc.) have been done to the gun other than the occasional click or 3 on the sights.
The gun works fine once it stays cocked--and by cocked, I mean the electronic trigger hasn't fired/clicked.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Chris
************CONUNDRUM RESOLVED! THANK YOU ALL!*********
A special THANK YOU to "therider" and "argus"
Your insight was right on target.
I ordered the parts in question from our forum host, Pilkguns, along with a "service kit" of parts.
***See attached image of parts lists ***
The red/pink are the repair parts. They were the culprit as near as I can tell--probably just worn out. All parts I reference are according to the parts Figure # in the mechanical drawings.
I'm glad I got screw #78, as the original got chewed up when I removed it. Figure parts #78 (screw) and #81 (spring) aren't really necessary, but since I was doing going to do a full service, I'm glad I got them replaced.
The green parts are what arrived as part of the "service kit" I asked for. Jennifer at Pilkguns was great to work with. It made the order really easy. When the parts arrived (each in their own plastic bag), I wrote down the mechanical drawing Figure # on each bag. This made it much easier to identify which parts go where. As a result, part 29.8 confused me a bit, as it isn't shown in the LP10E mechanical drawings, but IS shown in the LP10 drawings. It is inside the pressure regulator. I'm glad I had both sets of mechanical drawings from the Steyr website. Be very careful disassembling the pressure regulator as it is full of belleville spring washers--I used Figure #27(Grip Bar 40080200010) and slipped it into the bellville spring washer stack to keep the orientation and stacking order intact for later assembly. If you mess these up, just pack them up and send it all to PILKGUNS as regulators require special equipment to set up. I was especially extra careful to keep everything oriented the same way and in the same order.
Note the parts in the Yellow EXTRA section (my second parts order to our host-PILKGUNS). Despite my precautions, one of the Figure #68 springs disappeared when I took apart the recoil absorber. Neither I nor my eagle-eyed assistant saw this magic occur. So, I ordered 4 to replace all of those springs. Figure 29.11 and 30 are extra screws for the pressure regulator, as one of mine was buggered up from some previous work (of unknown origin-I bought the gone used), so I got a replacement and a spare. The other yellow parts are just some spare O-rings; the ones most exposed and likely to fail, but easily replaced.
Overall, the entire process took about 5 hours because I went very deliberately, and include the time reassembling the gun with the missing Figure #68 spring. I figure someone practiced could do it in under two hours (especially if they have parts on hand and aren't afraid to loose some). When I did install the Figure #68 springs (just remove rear sight and grip), I learned that you must install the rear sight screw back into the frame to reset the recoil absorber so you can properly adjust the recoil absorber spring per the video instructions.
Bottom line: Everything works great now! I appreciate all the Steyr companies drawings and videos, and most importantly, the help from the this forum. My son is very happy to have his gun back.
I think that sending the gun to PILKGUNS is probably best, and probably much quicker too, but I had fun doing this with my son - who was the official videographer, photographer, and eagle-eyed consultant during our initial disassembly-assembly. It was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon.
THANK YOU!
Chris
PS I also ordered some tools via Amazon to support this project!
1. Rennsteig Parallel Pin Punches with Sleeve (Pin Remover Tools) - 8 Piece Set
2. Mayhew Pro 25015 2mm Pilot Punch
3. Fixxxer Hollow End Stainless Steel Starter Punch Set by Fixxxer LLC
4. Bondhus 20899 Balldriver GoldGuard Finish L-Wrench Double Pack, 38099 (1.5-10mm) and 37937 (.050-3/8-Inch) (all I used were all the keys between 1mm and 3mm)