TargetTalk

So I recently purchased a Toz-35 from here at Target Talk and I had a few questions.

Using Eley Target (branded as Sport in the rest of the world) the bullet is forced into the rifling for about an 1/8 of an inch when the breech is closed. The breech cams up and requires a bit of force on the action to lock it home, nothing unreasonable just a noticeable difference compared to a few other brands. Is this normal for some rounds? If not what does it indicate?

Which direction do I turn the sights to move the strike of the bullet? It appears as though the elevation wheel is located on the top of the rear sight and is marked B and H. If wish to move the bullet strike UP do I turn it towards B or H? Same with the windage, which direction do I move it to say move the strike of the bullet LEFT?

Thanks,

-Jenrick

jenrick wrote:So I recently purchased a Toz-35 from here at Target Talk and I had a few questions.

Using Eley Target (branded as Sport in the rest of the world) the bullet is forced into the rifling for about an 1/8 of an inch when the breech is closed. The breech cams up and requires a bit of force on the action to lock it home, nothing unreasonable just a noticeable difference compared to a few other brands. Is this normal for some rounds? If not what does it indicate?

Which direction do I turn the sights to move the strike of the bullet? It appears as though the elevation wheel is located on the top of the rear sight and is marked B and H. If wish to move the bullet strike UP do I turn it towards B or H? Same with the windage, which direction do I move it to say move the strike of the bullet LEFT?

Thanks,

-Jenrick

As for the sights they are regular threads - clockwise screws down for the elevation. Clockwise moves the sight right, if you run out of traverse you can move the rear sight blade across by means of the two small screws.

As for the bullet being slightly hard to put into the breech nothing to worry imho.

Have fun; a good piece of gear.

B stands for Up, H stands for Down; straight
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for Right, the same one with the curved left leg stands for Left. If the breach is very tight to close, chamber cleaning might help.

jenrick wrote:...The breech cams up and requires a bit of force on the action to lock it home, nothing unreasonable just a noticeable difference compared to a few other brands.

The differences in force required to seat a bullet into the rifling is caused by the shape of the bullet's shoulder, hardness of the lead alloy, and to some degree the chamber depth. The TOZ will shoot just about anything, but bullet fit interference in some FPs limits what can be loaded.

I wrote C=U+R on the side of my TOZ grip. Clockwise turn for Up and Right.

I have different guns and can't read what's written on the adjustment knobs with my shooting glasses on

I bought a "new" 35M last year. Made in '92, tested in '09, bought in '14!! This is my 3rd, I keep selling them to buy something "better', but wind up coming back to the Toz. Ideally suited for club level shooting and beyond.

All systems go, except I had an initial problem with cocking the set trigger. I would engage intermittently. The solution was to make sure all the internal components were lubricated (probably hadn't been touched in 20 years), no problems since.

Yes, clockwise turns of the knobs move the shot up/right. The manual says elevation 9.5mm, windage 9.0mm. I guess for plebs like us 10mm is close enough.

Enjoy your Toz****

Thanks guys, it was fairly close to on out of the box, so I didn't want to risk that by twisting knobs far enough to see which way the sight moved in response.

I shot it again this afternoon, and I'm wondering if it's a buildup of wax lube from a particular brand of ammo that is causing issues with some of the other brands. I gave it a thorough cleaning this evening so I'll check next time I'm able to go to the range.

-Jenrick

Sorry, I forgot to include the following in my answer.

You will find most brands of 22's will exhibit some resistance when chambering. This is because the Toz is designed so that the projectile is forced into being engaged with the rifling. This promotes accuracy.

If you chamber a number of cartridges and extract them without firing, you will notice small marks where the projectile as been forced into the rifling. In any given box of cartridges you will find small differences in the effort required to insert the cartridge sufficiently to close the action. It is important to carefully clean the breech area when cleaning the barrel, usually after each match, but certainly after no more than 150-200 shots.

When you aren't sure which way things move, add 10 clicks and look at it. it should be clearly visable. Take the clicks out and you should be back to the start point knowing the directions stuff moves.
THEN label the gun.....

jenrick wrote:Thanks guys, it was fairly close to on out of the box, so I didn't want to risk that by twisting knobs far enough to see which way the sight moved in response.

I shot it again this afternoon, and I'm wondering if it's a buildup of wax lube from a particular brand of ammo that is causing issues with some of the other brands. I gave it a thorough cleaning this evening so I'll check next time I'm able to go to the range.

-Jenrick

I've occasionally had really bad results testing different flavors of ammo without cleaning between brands. It's almost like two brands of lube react with one another to produce hardened junk in the chamber. I've mostly seen this when testing with semi-autos, in that a pistol will fail to cycle properly until I clean at least the chamber between brands. It will work fine with one, and after cleaning, fine with another, but not right after swapping between the two. Most of the time, it will work itself out after 10 or 20 rounds, but only if you don't mind dealing with frequent jams of one flavor or another. Sometimes, the fired case will feel like they are glued into the chamber, and you need a rod to extract them.

With free pistol, some brands will work fine for extended periods. Others will require occasional cleaning (usually just a chamber brushing). Ammo that won't go more than 80 or so rounds without extraction problems is not suitable for free pistol. In some cases, the bullet shape is such that the short leade will shave lead off the bullet when chambering, and that will build up quickly & cause extraction problems. It's also probably not great for accuracy.