TargetTalk

I have a (bought from new) FP60 free pistol.

After a number of matches a substantial lead deposit begins to build up on the rear face of each section of the compensator. I have not been able to remove these deposits except with brute force, i.e. after removing the compensator (with front sight) and then using a brass drift followed by a hand-held 9mm drill bit down the spout and a 6mm drill bit crossways through each compensator slot (there are three).

Does a anyone who shoots this model or any with a similar feature, have a better way?

Bob

I can't at all help you with removing your comp, well maybe heating it but I have no idea. Don't even know what your pistol is besides that it's a free pistol.

But RRDvegas did some tests on keeping suppressor internals clean, and that if you soaked them in silicone oil it would make powder fouling just flake off later on. It would seep into the pours and prevent buildup. If you have a hard time cleaning your comp I wonder if this would help in cleaning it while on the gun, no soaking required.

http://www.rrdvegas.com/silencer-cleaning.html

BobGee wrote:... substantial lead deposit begins to build up on the rear face of each section of the compensator. I have not been able to remove these deposits except with brute force...

Soak the comp in Kroil for 24 hours prior to attacking the crud with dental pick and brushes.

After you get it clean, spray the comp with welder's "anti-spatter" which is designed to keep hot crap from sticking.

Thanks guys. Both suggestions are food for thought.

My free pistol, Steyr, has an insert that is famous for fouling. I had a new one made from titanium and polished it to a mirror finish. After every shooting session, I remove the insert and drop it in a small container of Hoppes, fully submerged. I suppose that Kroil would likely work as well, but Hoppes is a good solvent and cheaper. A day or 2 later, the lead just falls right off with the occasional stubborn flake that requires a gentle prod or brass brushing. This takes about 5 seconds to clean and dry. Then I re-install, another 5 seconds, and then it is ready to go again. I could also use the original steel piece, but I think that the titanium makes it more difficult for the lead to stick.

I don't know how your compensator is made, but perhaps you can soak it after shooting for a few days and then lightly brush it with a test tube brush or similar.

Cheers,

Joel

Thanks Joel. I've looked at the alternatives suggested by Andre and slofyr. Andre's link suggests soaking in silicone oil (DOT 5 brake fluid) after heating to 250degreesF (similar to your suggestion) and slofyr suggests using welder's anti-spatter.

I like the idea of the anti-spatter and find that Loctite make a ceramic based product called SF 7900 (aka Aerodag Ceramishield) which apparently lasts quite well in an arc welding environment and should last well in a shooting environment. Only problem is that the material is spray applied and cures to a white finish. I have an on-line inquiry to Loctite to see if they have a brush applied version as that would be easier to apply with a Q-tip or similar to affected areas of my compensator (pictured below). The affected areas are the inside faces of the slots (primarily the rearwards facing faces) and the bore. I'll advise Loctite's response when it comes through.

Thanks again all.

Bob

The anti-spatter spray will keep the lead/carbon from bonding to the surface. You will still need to use a pick to pop it off, but it is sooo much easier. Before the FP60, I used it on a .22lr revolver under the top strap and on the cylinder face. When cleaning the anti-spatter treated cylinder in an ultrasonic, the cylinder face would clean up like factory new in 10 minutes with straight Simple Green in the tank. Without the spray it would require 30 minutes, or more.

When you get tired of the cleaning chore, the comp's interior can be relieved a bit [with a lathe] so it can be slid back on the barrel.

slofyr wrote:When you get tired of the cleaning chore, the comp's interior can be relieved a bit [with a lathe] so it can be slid back on the barrel.

...which renders the comp ineffective and shortens up the sight radius.

I think I'll see how I go with the anti spatter, probably a gel type which should be adequate. The Loctite option is only available as a spray and I don't really want the hassle of having to mask off the outside of the comp.

Thanks again for the suggestion slofyr.

Bob

Perhaps you can spray some into a small container and then proceed with a q-tip and apply as you like.

Joel

BobGee wrote:...which renders the comp ineffective and shortens up the sight radius...

Yes it does. I'd wager that you won't notice any difference when shooting, and it won't change your scores. The bullet is long gone before lift affects your follow-through, and there is no second shot to stabilize for. Ponder how all the earlier FPs without a perforated sight holder, and shorter sight radius, scored so well. This has been discussed before and no need to detour this thread, so PM me if you want.


The gel anti-spatter will blow off after the first shot. Sprays dry and leave a waxy film. See Youtube for demos of these products.

Thanks slofyr, points noted.

Bob