TargetTalk

I am converting a empty hall in my workshop into 10m range. But I am confused regarding where and how many lights to install. I am no expert in this. If somebody has some experience, would be glad if he share.

Will upload some photos tonight, but this might give you something to think about for now.

MS Paint drawing might give you an idea of a typical club range lighting setup. Attached are some rules.





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NB: The recommended lighting specs are way up on the early 2000s rules due to lighting for television cameras. Minimum in 2003 was 1000 Lux at the target and 300 Lux at the Firing Point.
Recommended now for modern ranges is 1500 at the firing point, bring sunglasses.

When I set up a range in my garage I used a desk lamp (60W) as a spot and had three fluro tubes across the roof of the garage (10m length).
Light on the rear sights was an issue - but now I just shoot at my club as it is a 5m drive and you might as well train how you shoot.

You can see my club range in this video somewhat:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRHL04OE6vw

If I had no option but to train at home I would make damn sure I got the light at the firing point perfect.

I wouldn't worry about the lighting specs - most clubs are way under those limits, I think mine is less than 50% of those values.

The image though is very helpful. Essentially you want a well lit target with good overall light throughout the facility, with no glare or bright lights obvious to the shooter - hence most are behind small baffles on the ceilings. We use floor mounted halogen floodlights to acheive the same effect, they just need to be screened from the shooters.

Rob.

Back with some pictures - perhaps some inspiration.




Couple of pictures of behind and in front of the firing point.

Couldn't get pictures of the target end as I forgot my Kevlar vest.

As Rob said, note the baffles which block light.

Too many ranges over-light the area immediately behind the shooter and under-light the target area. The result is a lot of glare on the sights. I prefer a brightly lit target area and indirect light over the shooter. This gives a nice, black sight picture with clear visible light in the sight picture.
But, I get the impression that I'm in the minority with this opinion.

Best regards,
Jim

Thnaks a lot .The pictures are of great help. If I have to measure the intensity of light, do i have to use lux meter?

Hello SamEEE,
Good day.
A bit off topic as I could not inquire via PM.
I'd like to find out more about the target retrievers in the pictures above. Who makes it and at what price.
Thanks and have a good day

Ron

amarinder wrote:...do i have to use lux meter?

Yep - much better than a stopwatch

ronpistolero wrote:Hello SamEEE,
Good day.
A bit off topic as I could not inquire via PM.
I'd like to find out more about the target retrievers in the pictures above. Who makes it and at what price.
Thanks and have a good day

Ron

They are Rika Sydney changers.
http://www.schiesssport-buinger.de/shoo ... ro-Catch_1

We have used them for 7.5 years now without any hassle. Had to replace one time rated component in one changer this year, a motor run cap.
Good quality motors and components in them.

Can you share the complete book for the lux level requirements

The lighting requirements are in the ISSF rule book, General Technical Rules, Section 6.4.14 (page 34):

https://backoffice.issf-sports.org/getf ... ersion.pdf

At Diablo, during the winter we shoot indoors.
The targets are on the walls.
Lights are clamped onto chairs in front of and below the targets.
Hopefully you can see the lights in the photo..

The recommended light levels are quite bright compared to a lot of older indoor ranges. It's easier to get the light levels required if you only provide local illumination where it's needed. I designed & installed LED spot track lights on the college ranges where I coach. We have lights for paper targets at 10 meters, part way down a 50 foot pistol range. We also use the Rifle Team's electronic targets in their side of the range for matches. The electronic targets are typically set up at 50 feet, so to shoot at 10 meters, the firing line is moved 17 feet forward. That's in an area of the range where there were no light fixtures, and needed a LOT more light.

The range has angled steel baffles mounted to the ceilings, and I used large magnets to hold the lighting tracks to the baffles. On the pistol side, the lighting tracks are mounted on top of one of the baffles, out of harms way. It worked out better on the rifle side to mount them on the underside of the baffles, but back up near the ceiling where they are still protected.

Not so much a problem these days with LED lighting, but if using fluro lighting then try to have different phases
on each light bank to reduce fluro flicker.
ie wire it to each three phase not single phase.