TargetTalk

What are my choices and where should I get the putty to fit my new grip. T Rink fit my last grip with a 2 part epoxy putty from what I remember. Using a little at a time with my hand damp each time I gripped with the newly added putty. Does all the choices of grip putty pretty much work in the same method? I believe Rink sells putty on his site but don't want to pay shipping from Germany and would rather pick something up from homedepot if they have something that works as good or better

Here in the US, I have bought "Tuf-Fill Mahogany" in the past, out of Ohio. Too bad you have to buy a full Gallon of the stuff. But I found I used most of it over the years. I even created a full, wrap-around Free Pistol grip entirely out of this material. Here is the link...

http://www.freemansupply.com/TUFFilPolyesterRep.htm

Order extra hardener. You'll run out of it before you use the base material.

I'm trying to talk myself into needing some of this myself. I live in the DFW area, too..

Plumbers Epoxy Putty you can pick it up at the hardware or home improvement store for about $10.00 it's a 2 part epoxy. I did my LP10E with it and used less than a stick.

I was told to use plastic wood. It works, but that stuff STINKS for a LONG time, as it cures. And some people may have a reaction when they hold it, until it fully cures.

Seaton Thomas used a 2 part putty like epoxy from Ace Hardware when he worked on my grip. You cut off the amount you want then mash it together with your fingers and when blended, stick it on the grip. The epoxy has a hard smooth finish.

There's something to be said about aesthetics. The Hardware store epoxies will work, but they come in a variety of colors (yellow, green, red, etc) that you may not like. Further, they tend to set very hard, and are not easy to carve.

The Tuf-Fill Mahogany product mentioned earlier looks similar to what the pros use, is easy to carve, and does not get too hot when setting... you can actually put a glob in the palm of your hand and grab the factory grip. 10-minutes later, you pry your hand loose and it leaves behind a perfectly molded impression that a palm reader can interpret, but more important it usually requires little filing or carving. Add and delete material with ease.

As noted previously, I made an entire grip with it once (top photo).

I like kwikwood (kneadable epoxy) as well as Sugru (http://sugru.com/). The latter is easier to work with and is much easier to remove.

I just use single pot walnut-coloured putty. Goes hard, doesn't slip with sweaty hands, and easy to carve.

You can mix quikwood and Sugru to get characteristic of both- hard and easy to shape/ stipple.

You can also add a drop or two of acrylic paint color black and red while kneading the mixture to make the color match.

sounds like quickwood or something similar is what Rink used on my grip. It was a kneadable epoxy. By putting on a little at a time and then molding to hand and then blending to what was already added, we didn't really have to take much off with the dremmel tool. Setup in about 2-3 minutes and I think was fully cured and could be ground like wood in about 5 minutes. Was brown in color but I'm not too concerned about how it looks. You can see every line and fingerprint with the stuff just like in the pictures that were posted. Unfortunately I don't need a gallon (or at least I hope not). I think Larry's sells the same stuff at Tomas Rink but wanted to pick something up locally. Guess I should of called Neal at ISS to see what he has in stock but it's still a 25 minute drive. Thanks for all the replies. I see there is definately more than one way to go and just about any of it should work.

you can get QuikWood at home depot. I have been using it for years and it is easy to work with to put it on and then also remove some when you put too much on. I normally only put on a little at a time to build up slowly to my end point.

you can get QuikWood at home depot. I have been using it for years and it is easy to work with to put it on and then also remove some when you put too much on. I normally only put on a little at a time to build up slowly to my end point.

I am also a fan of Tuf fill. One thing to keep in mind with epoxies is weight. Some of these easier to use epoxies are heavy when they cure and this is somewhat undesirable.

Mike

..Another Kwikwood user here; also got mine from Home Depot.

Tony

Since this thread helped me I thought I'd add to it. I just adjusted a FWB grip to fit me using Quickwood dark putty. Very easy to work with. Clean the wood area with acetone, knead a chunk of Quickwood to a consistent color in about three minutes (it will start to warm and flow), apply and shape, then stipple (if desired) until about six minutes when the material hardens too much to dent. After about 30 - 40 minutes it can be shaped with a file. It is pretty hard after six minutes but I didn't want to rush into a soft spot.

I was pleased with how the Quickwood adhered to previous layers. Since the end surfaces would be stippled or filed/sanded flat the texture on the mechanic's nitrile gloves I wore when mixing and applying didn't matter, but if I was concerned I would use smooth nitrile gloves next time.

Below is a link with a picture of the product:
http://www.woodcraft.com/products/quick ... -dark-1-oz

Kwikwood or PC-Woody. Both are 2 part wood putty that come in a "tootsie roll" package and one or both will be available at any hardware store (at least here in the US). Cut off the amount you want, knead for a few minutes and apply. It hardens to a firm set in 5-10 minutes or so, but can still be moved slightly, stuck with a point to add texture or cut with an X-Acto blade. After a few hours it can be sanded. Bondo and plumbers putty are very hard and difficult to sand.

I saw this on facebook.. the poster said you use infa red to cure it

I have seen T Rink working. I asked him about the putty and he told me dentists use the same.

j danielsson wrote:I have seen T Rink working. I asked him about the putty and he told me dentists use the same.

This is just for modelling the grip while you're there, it won't be durable enough to use. When you're done he'll trace that model into a computerized model, which then is used to produce your final grip.

There was silicone leftovers from a previous appointment on several of the test grips he had, and he was able to remove that by peeling it off with his hands.



My experience is only from modelling grips for producing new grips though, I'm not shure if he will actually modify your existing grips this way. I'm pretty shure he only produces new grips.

Have anyone ever used polymer clay?

It needs to be hardened in an oven, and I am not really sure if this has any negative effects for a wooden grip?

I have just tried adding some more defined finger grooves to a grip for an older "backup" gun, and I cured it for about 40 minutes at 130°C (266F). I cant really tell if the grip got a bit darker.
It seems that the polymer clay sticks quite nicely, but could also be peeled off again without too much effort, which seems like a plus to me

I just dont want to risk messing up the grip of the considerably more expensive gun I use now.

jens_ms wrote:Have anyone ever used polymer clay?
...
I cured it for about 40 minutes at 130°C (266F). I cant really tell if the grip got a bit darker.

Someone may have more specific knowledge about heat effects on wood, but I think it is unlikely that 130C for 40 minutes will damage the wood, but it will be cumulative. If you repeat the process many times there could be some weakening of the wood.

I do have some specific knowledge about ovens. The 2 that I have tested were not accurate, particularly when set to their lowest temperatures. They can have significant error in the average temperature (like 50F or more) and their temperature cycles up and down. The electric oven I tested cycled by around 100F and the gas oven cycled 200F if I remember correctly. This test was done for a work project many years ago. We were using old kitchen ovens as cheap thermal chambers for long term high temperature testing. I suspect toaster ovens would be as bad or worse but have not tested any.