TargetTalk

I need some help from you triggernometry professors.

I played with trigger setting today. Now I am really screwed up.

The trigger, when pressed slowly, will "click" at end of 2nd stage travel, but will not shoot.

I have to recock the lever, and press trigger rather fast to induce a shot. If I press the trigger at normal, smooth speed, it will just "click", then nothing.

I thought it might be too tight of 1st stage and 2nd stage after travel. I have loosen up those two a bit now. But it still just "click" when pressed slowly at end of 2nd stage.

Any recommendation.

I'm not sure about the IZH, but in a number of pistols, if you fiddle with some of the settings, the trigger stop may need to be backed off.

There is a good diagram of the trigger bits in the Gunsmithing section on our host's site:

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/spizh46.htm

I'm not sure how you could be getting a "click" without it firing, unless somehow the valve sear isn't engaging. This posting might provide some insight into how it's supposed to work:

http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php?t=42480

The sure-fire (as it were...) approach to debugging this sort of problem is to take off the grips. The IZH has several strategically placed holes in the frame so you can see a lot of what is going on. You can also see the valve sear & valve plunger looking down from the top, even with the grips on.

Let us know what you find out.

I think the problem is the leaky piston seal.

I think the air leak out, I end up hearing the "dry fire" click.

If I shoot quickly, piston is still compressed.



I had replaced the piston cup seal once before. I lubricated it with high pressure silicone grease. It worked pretty well until recently.

Once I noticed the problem is leaky piston compression, I added a few drops of red PelOil. That actually worsen the leakage.

Has anyone tried this Mac-1 seal replacement.
http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/izh-46-va ... 46ss90.htm
They simply replace the pistol/ piston cup seal with a new piston/ two o-rings?

Do they work well? Hard to do?

I replaced the piston cup seal from Pyramydair 46M seal replacement kit. I replaced the piston cup seal, but did not replace the three included 0-rings because I don't know where to put those three 0-rings. I replaced the beveled action lever seals, but I have no clue where to put the other three o-rings.


http://airgunenthusiast.weebly.com/repl ... -seal.html
I am going to open it up. Clean the piston cup seal again. But what to do those those 0rings?

That's odd. As far as I can tell from the exploded diagram & everything I've read & seen, the IZH has NO O-rings. All the seals are odd cross-sections, nothing round.

46M replacement seals kit from Pyramydair has one piston cap seal, one large 0ring, three beveled seals (two large, one small).

I know where to put the piston cap and the two large beveled seals on the lever clap. But where to put the large 0ring and the smaller beveled seal?

The large O-ring may be the seal for end of the piston tube, and I think the small beveled seal is the inner firing seal. The exploded drawing shows a circular seal for the large piston tube, but it's drawn like it has a square cross-section, which technically isn't an "O" ring.

seamaster wrote:But where to put the large 0ring and the smaller beveled seal?

Those two seals you mentioned are the packing ring (part nº 35) and lock (part nº 31). I prefer FWB special grease, rather than using oil to lubricate the seals.

http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/izh46ex.htm

I had an IZH46M that leaked almost from day 1. Since I'm pretty much all thumbs I had Mac1 do their magic valve upgrade and absolutely no problems since.