TargetTalk

Changed from iron sights to UltraDots in 2002. To "zero" them, I simply

mounted one onto the pistol's base, shot 5 rounds of Slow Fire @ 25 yards

and made w. and e. adjustments as needed. Five more rounds for

confirmation, then maybe a final click or 2 and all was well.


Called Burris about their sights as I am considering one for a shooting

discipline other than Bullseye. Asked 1 last question about any special

tips or advice regarding their use. I did not mention my previous

shooting experience with UltraDots.


She told me: "With our sights the dot will not always APPEAR to be

centered in the lens as a reticle does when viewed through a rifle scope's

lens. If your revolver is slightly tipped up, down, right or left, even just a

little bit, the dot will still appear SOMEWHERE within the lens, posssibly

even at the extreme edges of it. This confuses people and they call us

for help. Instead, you should assume a 2-handed grip on your handgun

and rest your arms on your kitchen table. Have your S&W pointed at a

wall about 1 to 2 feet away. Find the factory front sight through the lens

and adjust the w. and e. until the dot appears immediately above the top

of the front sight blade. This'll get you very close to where you need to

be. Now, go shooting and fine tune everything with a click or so to get a

final '0'."


Pressed for time I thanked her and politely ended our conversation.

Thinking about this now, I am confused! Have any of you ever used a

Burris Fast Fire II or III Dot Sight? Exactly how did you go about sighting-

in? Maybe you've used Leupold's DeltaPoint, which is of a similar design.

Any "special sight-in procedure" required for either of these products?

I was just going to sight-in the Fast Fire in the same manner as has

always been done when using an UltraDot; simply mount it, shoot it,

adjust it and I'm done! I will note that UltraDots are "tube-type" designs,

while the Burris and Leupold are considered to be "heads-up" models.

Does this fact account for this alleged "need" to use a different zeroing

procedure with sights of this type? Please comment......Thanks!

I have a burris FF3 and many many ultradots.

I use a laser boresighter and my normal pistol grip to get close alignment between the laser and the dot. That usually gets me within a 1/2" of POI at the range at 15 yards or so. Then I will fine tune it from there and walk it out until my zero is dead at 50.

Hi,

I have a burris fast fire (not the new one) and and a J-Point which is very similiar.

I just start about 3 yards from the target and work my way back.

I do not have boresighter and I do like to shoot, so I am ok with a few axtra rounds, but I realize that may not be possible at some ranges and ammo can be hard to find nowadays.

Have a Good Day,

xpshooter

The FFIII one click is 1 MOA which means one click will adjust your dot 1" at 100yards or 1/4" at 25 yards.

I zero at 25 yards on a sheet of paper with 1/4" grids with a 1" aiming point in the middle. Using a sandbag rest I fire 3 shots. Then I count the gridlines from the aiming point to the center of the group and adjust both windage and elevation to move the dot to the group.

2 shot sight in:
If you know the gun/ammo is accurate you can do it with two shots - using a rest fire the first round and count the gridlines, adjust and follow up to verify.

I use 1/2" gridlines at 50 and 1" at 100 just so I don't screw up on "grid math" which I have done.

Any closer than 25 yards I find it harder to get accurate. Example if you shoot at 10 yards it should take 10 clicks to move the dot 1" (100/10=10) or 1/10th of an inch per click.

2 shot sight in:
If you know the gun/ammo is accurate you can do it with two shots - using a rest fire the first round and count the gridlines, adjust and follow up to verify.

This would be very exciting having two shot accurately. I love to try this one at my shooting range club.