TargetTalk

I purchased a new Marvel #1 long slide conversion kit and I would like to make it a dedicated gun. Thinking about getting into Bullseye shooting.

I need recommendations for the way to go with selecting a frame and trigger....also how do you go about it? Do you buy a frame and then get a good smith to install the trigger. Do some of the big names like Wilson or Baer sell just a lower assembly ?Not so concerned about costs but want to be smart with my decisions. Help !

Joe

I have my Marvel mounted on a Springfield Armory "Loaded" frame. It fit onto the frame without any problems. I did a trigger job and it has performed extremely well. I understand that some of the "custom" frames may require fitting. My trigger weighs 3.5#. If you want a 2# trigger, you may have to have a pistolsmith do a trigger job.

It is not important which lower you use,
But I would get a Caspian Frame, and send it to a good pistol smith to do a trigger job. The Marvel will work with any lower.
You can buy the frame from Brownells.
But I would take the recommendation of the gunsmith you use.
Travis Frerking of FCW makes a dedicated lower for the marvel.
Dave Salyer is very good and Joe Chambers also. Roddy Toyota and Ed Masaki are two of the best.

The cheap way out is to buy a rock island armory 1911, about 400.00 new, then redo the trigger weight. Best way is to build with a top grade frame, caspian or several others are available along with all the other parts from brownells, a good build will run 600.00 and up.

Another option is an Iver Johnson lower and a trigger job. That is what I did and I am very pleased with the result and the quality of the IJ lower.

Southj wrote:I purchased a new Marvel #1 long slide conversion kit and I would like to make it a dedicated gun. Thinking about getting into Bullseye shooting.

I need recommendations for the way to go with selecting a frame and trigger....also how do you go about it? Do you buy a frame and then get a good smith to install the trigger. Do some of the big names like Wilson or Baer sell just a lower assembly ?Not so concerned about costs but want to be smart with my decisions. Help !

Joe

Joe;
I would buy a high end frame.. Caspian, Les Baer, STI, PM, etc. Many of the problems associated with feeding, are due to sub quality frames. One major area, is sloppy magazine wells. It allows the magazine position to vary, changing the feed angle of the cartridge. The diminutive size of the .22 makes it subject to feeding problems. The trigger tracks, and machining tolerances in the hammer / sear area, all have an effect on the outcome of the overall quality of your investment.
Jerry

Trooperjake wrote:It is not important which lower you use,
But I would get a Caspian Frame, and send it to a good pistol smith to do a trigger job. The Marvel will work with any lower.
You can buy the frame from Brownells.
But I would take the recommendation of the gunsmith you use.
Travis Frerking of FCW makes a dedicated lower for the marvel.
Dave Salyer is very good and Joe Chambers also. Roddy Toyota and Ed Masaki are two of the best.

I highly recommend Travis Frerking. He built me a ball gun that is top notch. Accurate out to 50 yards and flawless reliability. Also he is great guy to deal with. No affiliation, just a happy customer. When I need my lower built I will be turning to him.

Stephen

I agree with having a reputable gunsmith fit a quality lower frame to your .22 conversion. I had my conversion built exactly as my hardball gun by the same gunsmith (K.C. Crawford). Not only is the Marvel 22/45 a valuable training pistol to help me with my hardball EIC training, it is an extremely accurate .22 pistol that I can use in Bullseye competitions.

Mine rides on a WW-1 colt frame that was originally .455 Webley. I bought the bare frame to use as a fitting mule for grips, then built it up for the Marvel about two years ago. Two and a half pound trigger and works far better than I do these days.
Dr Jim

Trooperjake wrote:It is not important which lower you use,
But I would get a Caspian Frame, and send it to a good pistol smith to do a trigger job.

Seconded, with two additional points. I recently went through this.

First, Caspian frames with cosmetic blemishes (usually undetectable once the pistol is built, according to most people I've talked to) are sold as Fosters via fosterind.com. Enough people advised me "Save the money; you'll never know the difference" that I went that route. The 'smith I chose also recommended them.

Second, talk to the pistolsmith and pay attention to the gut feeling you get during the conversation. Contract for the build with a 'smith with whom you "click".

I don't care how touchy-feely that previous paragraph sounds. Don't buy a name. Don't buy from shops that can't answer email or return phone calls. Don't buy from anyone who makes you feel an inch tall because you need some guidance. Don't buy from anyone who makes you feel like talking to you on the phone is a waste of their time. No names will be mentioned but during my short but intensive recent search for a shop to build my pistol I found the proportion of shops that treated me unprofessionally, discourteously, or just plain didn't seem to know what they were doing (or didn't care enough to put someone on the phone who did) was shockingly high.

Ben, I am sorry you got the run around from some smiths you called. There is a huge difference between gunsmiths and smiths who have the knowledge and ability to build a BE gun or lower for that matter. And building a lower for a Marvel has even a few more issues than a standard 1911 lower given that the shooter will most likely want a 2# trigger. That means a sear and hammer with the right geometry and length. Also factor in a roll trigger for good measure. Jerry may have touched on this also. The Fosters are fine as you said, nothing wrong with saving some $ for ammo.

I have to second Greg's comment on having a smith that is Bullseye knowledgeable build your lower. I had one who was NOT a BE smith build a lower for me about 6 years ago, because I was inexperienced, he was local, the turn around time was quick, he built very nice quality carry guns and because I didn't think it would make much difference.
I was WRONG! It functioned just fine. It was reliable. The trigger was very good, by carry-gun standards, but it couldn't hold a candle to either my wad gun or my ball gun, both built by a top notch BE smith. I shot it for a couple of years and then had to have the sear and disconnect reworked reworked by my BE smith. Having my local smith do the job did not save me any money initially and I had to have part of his work redone, not because he was incompetent, but because he didn't truly understand what was needed in a BE pistol. Purchase quality parts (as Jerry recommends) and have an experienced BE smith do the work once. Don't pay for it to be done twice like I did.
Both Greg and Jerry and highly qualified pistol smiths in their own right. Their advice is well worth listening to.

Scott
Vermont