TargetTalk

I just picked up a Ruger MK 1 HB . The best group I can get is 3". Needs to do a lot better for me. Iam I expecting to much for this old pistol ?

Maybe, and maybe not. What distance are you shooting at? Are you resting it on sand bags? Have you tried different ammos?

dsj wrote:I just picked up a Ruger MK 1 HB . The best group I can get is 3". Needs to do a lot better for me. Iam I expecting to much for this old pistol ?

25 shots at 25 yards gun supported with deferent ammo

dsj wrote:I just picked up a Ruger MK 1 HB . The best group I can get is 3". Needs to do a lot better for me. Iam I expecting to much for this old pistol ?

I don't think you're expecting too much but I can think of reasons why you're not getting what you expect.

Others will chime in with more info, I'm sure, but on Rugers I look for mangled muzzles. They're a pain to disassemble to clean from the breech so I've seen lots of them with totally trashed barrel crowns from people jamming in cleaning rods. If that's the problem, a decent gunsmith can fix it pretty easy.

What does the end of the barrel look like, pristine or chewed up?

A good Ruger MkI should do better. There's a few things to check. Sorry if they seem obvious.
-Check for loose sights.
-Dry fire the gun (safely), with an empty in the chamber. Does the hammer drop seem snappy and quick, or mushy? If the latter, the slower lock time can mess with groups. It may just need a good cleaning or some new springs. The Volquartson accurizing kit (match grade trigger, hammer and springs) can really help.
-The muzzle crown may indeed be damaged. It may or may not be plainly visible. Even very minute damage can hurt accuracy and may not be obvious to the naked eye. A good gunsmith should be able to help. A re-crown is usually an easy, low cost cure. However, some gunsmiths will insist that the best way to fix the crown is to remove the barrel and turn it in a lathe. That will cost a good bit more just for the set up time involved.

But it can be an easy DIY project. Brownell's sells a variety of tools. (Even chucking a round head brass screw in a hand drill with the head coated in cutting oil and 600 grit lapping compound can work if you have a steady hand.)
-Check the barrel for rust, pitting, etc. Also check the chamber and throat. You'll probably need to remove the bolt to get a good look.
-Check the breach end of the barrel for firing pin damage. This can cause erratic ignition that may hurt accuracy.
-You should also know that Ruger has been known to let their bore and rifling dimensions get pretty far off spec. Some barrels just don't shoot worth a darn.
-The barrel can also be relined. The bore is drilled out and a rifled liner is installed with either epoxy or silver solder. There are a few places that do match grade work using Lothar Walther rifled liners. I believe Falcon Machining did a lot of such work on fine match pistols. But, they may not be around any longer.
Brownell's also sells the tools to DIY. Done right, this procedure can give you superb accuracy while maintaining the original appearance.
-Clark sells replacement barrels, but they require gunsmith installation.

One last thought: consider the overall condition and originality of the pistol. In fine, original condition a Ruger Mk I does have some collector interest.

Might be a good idea to do the simplest things first and strip it down and give it a thorough cleaning.

Best wishes with your new Ruger,
Jim

i think the only thing that 6string's great info missed was a proper clean and lubricate - if the slide does not close all the way this too can affect accuracy