TargetTalk

Hi all;
I am new to Bulls Eye shooting and shooting in a winter .22 only league on indoor range at local gun club. I have shot two weeks now with open sights and I'm ready to get a red dot. I'm interested in The ultra dot 1" with 4 MOA dot, and the Ultra dot match four 30MM with 2, 4, 6, & 8 MOA adjustable dots. However the 4 dot cost $100 more than the 1" 4 moa. Is it worth the additional cost for what I am doing or would the 1" 4 MOA serve my purpose?

Thank you;

Ric

The 1" will "server your purpose".
The multiple dot sizes is a nice option. However, for a new shooter I would recommend getting the 1" tube and spend the spare $100 on ammo.

As you progress, you may decide you want the 4 dot option. You should be able to find someone in your club to let you try it out. I find I like the 1" tube more than the 30mm (which stinks because most of mine are 30mm right now).

I really think it is whatever you get used to. If you are just going to shoot indoors, the four moa single dot scope will be fine. In my opinion it doesn't really matter if it is one inch or 30mm. It is whatever you get used to. However, if you are going to shoot outdoors, and are going to shoot 45, you may find that being able to really crank up the dot is very helpful, especially with an uncovered firing point. If you go with the single dot (4MOA) scope, do not lose the polarized filter that you can put on the end. You're gonna need it.

I would suggest the 30mm over the 1" as when during timed and rapid fire you can "lose" the dot more easily than the 30mm a wider tube and optics......"Doc"

match dot 4 dot is a waste, most everyone ends up using the standard 4, plus it weighs a good bit more than the 1''. Ive had them all and sold them and use the 1'' on everything.

I prefer a larger red dot ca 8 minute. When i have the dot in the black I'm assured of a 10 - more often than not I'm not totally in the black.

Two weeks and you're ready for a Red Dot?

No you're not. Learn to shoot with iron sights.

Iron is all they use in Olympic style pistol. Be ready.

Thanks to everyone who responded. Seems the 1" 4 MOA is the most usted. I think I will give it a try and "hold on to the filter".

Rover, thanks for your suggestion, but I don't think I have to worry about shooting olympic pistol. Although I would like to.......... I have shot iron all my life, but only for two weeks in Bulls Eye. Just thought I would venture out and give the dot a try. You raise a good point and I will continue to practice with iron because I hope not to loose what skill I have with them.

Ric

Rimfire Ric wrote:Thanks to everyone who responded. Seems the 1" 4 MOA is the most usted. I think I will give it a try and "hold on to the filter".

Rover, thanks for your suggestion, but I don't think I have to worry about shooting olympic pistol. Although I would like to.......... I have shot iron all my life, but only for two weeks in Bulls Eye. Just thought I would venture out and give the dot a try. You raise a good point and I will continue to practice with iron because I hope not to loose what skill I have with them.

Ric

When you start shooting outdoors and need the polarizer, you will need to either put a dot of clear nail polish, blue loctite or a small piece of tape on it to keep it from turning while you are firing.

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When you start shooting outdoors and need the polarizer, you will need to either put a dot of clear nail polish, blue loctite or a small piece of tape on it to keep it from turning while you are firing.[/quote]

Thanks for the heads up, I would have hoped ultradot would have a better design than that, and would not have known to expect this.!!!!

Rimfire Ric wrote:
Thanks for the heads up, I would have hoped ultradot would have a better design than that, and would not have known to expect this.!!!!

You will generally be ok with a 22 and most of the time ok with a frame mounted scope on the 45 BUT the polarizer has to be able to turn to create the proper amount of darkness to allow you to see the dot in very bright conditions. The problems generally come with a slide mounted Ultradot on the 45. There is enough force from the recoil to turn the polarizer enough that it can go completely black in the middle of sustained fire. Not a good thing when you are at a big match.

Another thing you can do is install the tube extension that comes with the scope. This allows less light into the tube and makes the dot look brighter. Second benefit is that it keeps the rain off the front lens of the scope if you are shooting in a drizzle.

Isabel1130 wrote:

Rimfire Ric wrote:
Thanks for the heads up, I would have hoped ultradot would have a better design than that, and would not have known to expect this.!!!!

You will generally be ok with a 22 and most of the time ok with a frame mounted scope on the 45 BUT the polarizer has to be able to turn to create the proper amount of darkness to allow you to see the dot in very bright conditions. The problems generally come with a slide mounted Ultradot on the 45. There is enough force from the recoil to turn the polarizer enough that it can go completely black in the middle of sustained fire. Not a good thing when you are at a big match.

Another thing you can do is install the tube extension that comes with the scope. This allows less light into the tube and makes the dot look brighter. Second benefit is that it keeps the rain off the front lens of the scope if you are shooting in a drizzle.

Great information that will come in very handy. Thank you for sharing!

Ric

I found 2 different problems with the polarizers:
1. The lens can rotate within it's ring. It is held in by an o-ring. Pry out the o-ring and use a drop of nail polish, or super glue to glue it in place. This is very tiny work.
2. The lens ring will rotate while firing due to recoil. A short section of 10-speed bicycle tube slipped over the whole assembly will hold it in place.

davekp wrote:I found 2 different problems with the polarizers:
1. The lens can rotate within it's ring. It is held in by an o-ring. Pry out the o-ring and use a drop of nail polish, or super glue to glue it in place. This is very tiny work.
2. The lens ring will rotate while firing due to recoil. A short section of 10-speed bicycle tube slipped over the whole assembly will hold it in place.

A dot of white paint on each section of the polarizer that line up when it is adjusted to minimum darkness will show you at a glance if it is moving and still allow adjustment. Mine drove me crazy by going to maximum darkness during sustained fire and I always thought the ring was turning but it was the lens as described in #1. After gluing them in place there is no more movement or darkening.

marvelshooter wrote:

davekp wrote:I found 2 different problems with the polarizers:
1. The lens can rotate within it's ring. It is held in by an o-ring. Pry out the o-ring and use a drop of nail polish, or super glue to glue it in place. This is very tiny work.
2. The lens ring will rotate while firing due to recoil. A short section of 10-speed bicycle tube slipped over the whole assembly will hold it in place.

A dot of white paint on each section of the polarizer that line up when it is adjusted to minimum darkness will show you at a glance if it is moving and still allow adjustment. Mine drove me crazy by going to maximum darkness during sustained fire and I always thought the ring was turning but it was the lens as described in #1. After gluing them in place there is no more movement or darkening.

Man this sounds like a pain! Is all this happening with a 22 or only on larger caliber? I received the Ultra dot today and got it mounted. It looks good on my Mark III, but I have not shot it yet. However, It feels like I am able to hold it steadier than the Iron sights while dry firing. I hope to try it out tomorrow. I hope I don't have to deal with these rotation problems?

Ric

I shot with an aimpoint micro for about two years on my 22, and for three or four months on my 45 in order to try and standardize the scope I was using all the way through the 2700. I gave up for good about six months ago and went back to the Ultradot for everything.
They are super reliable and provide the balance to the guns,that I prefer. The polarizer which I use rarely, has not been that big a deal.

I have settled on the UD 1" 4 dot.

Mounted with Leupold "Rifleman" rings on weaver style bases, or Leupold 22 rings on grooves. Sometimes Burris Zee rings, and sometimes the Weigand rings. And sometimes the classic Weaver rings. Never the UD supplied rings.

Rimfire Ric wrote:

marvelshooter wrote:

davekp wrote:I found 2 different problems with the polarizers:
1. The lens can rotate within it's ring. It is held in by an o-ring. Pry out the o-ring and use a drop of nail polish, or super glue to glue it in place. This is very tiny work.
2. The lens ring will rotate while firing due to recoil. A short section of 10-speed bicycle tube slipped over the whole assembly will hold it in place.

A dot of white paint on each section of the polarizer that line up when it is adjusted to minimum darkness will show you at a glance if it is moving and still allow adjustment. Mine drove me crazy by going to maximum darkness during sustained fire and I always thought the ring was turning but it was the lens as described in #1. After gluing them in place there is no more movement or darkening.

Man this sounds like a pain! Is all this happening with a 22 or only on larger caliber? I received the Ultra dot today and got it mounted. It looks good on my Mark III, but I have not shot it yet. However, It feels like I am able to hold it steadier than the Iron sights while dry firing. I hope to try it out tomorrow. I hope I don't have to deal with these rotation problems?

Ric

It is (mostly) only with calibers larger than .22 but more importantly it is only when shooting outdoors with sunlight on the target face. Indoors or outdoors on a cloudy day a polarizer is not needed. It was a pain before I figured out why it was happening but it is a simple one time fix.

Wow! I finally got it. I totally missed it at first. I was reading polirizer, but I'm not sure what I was thinking. Now I get it, and I could see how that might vibrate around some, and it is only when it is needed when shooting outside. This winter on the indoor range I don't have to worry about it. I did take a look at the trim ring and it is on very tight. When I do need to remove it to add the polirizer, what is the best method so as not to damage the scope?

Thanks;

Ric

I have never needed any more darkness than the minimum it provides so a quick fix to all spinning is to remove one of the lens, takes only a minute and can be put back in if you want to.