TargetTalk

Brand new in the box?

$2500 - $2700. This range might not get you a quick sale but advertising in the right places - your chances are very good. An excellent gun with a flawless reputation.

Red Dogg wrote:$2500 - $2700. This range might not get you a quick sale but advertising in the right places - your chances are very good. An excellent gun with a flawless reputation.

Thanks. I think I asked my question the wrong way. I was looking to buy one.

If you are looking to buy one, it does not change the value, but if you are buying it for a shooter, why would you care if it is new in the box? (Collector grade)

Also are you going to use it for international with irons, or for bullseye? If for bullseye, you are going to probably want a red dot and mount on it. You can generally get one between 1500 and 2500 depending on what you want on it and how many magazines etc.

You will find many of them out there that no longer have the iron sights on them, but that will only matter to a select group of people.

All the extras like weights, iron sights, magazines, Knapp mount etc. correct size grip, or CMM grip adapter can be pricey if you have to buy them individually.

However with inflation kicking in, the prices are unlikely to go down.

i agree with Isabel . . . No need to buy a new one in box since these guns are very well built to last a lifetime. You should also consider the Hammerli 215....same great quality including the two stage trigger and sell for about 30% less. Only differences between the two are purely aesthetic.

Thanks.
I know of 208, 208s, 215, and 215s. I have shot a fellow BE shooter's 208s. I am and I am not impressed with the trigger. IMHO, its first stage is too hard and I was told it is set as low as possible. I wish I had my trigger guage with me. I read somewhere that the longer the first stage, the lighter it is. This gun had a very long first stage. But it broke like a glass rod :-)

I am by no means a BE expert, but I think I like single stage triggers better. Unless a two stage has a very light & short first stage.

Based on what I recall, 208 came in 1 stage and 2 stage triggers. 208s and 215s have the famous 2 stage adj trigger. I have seen 215 with 2 stage trigger, but I do not know if it ever came in a 1 stage.

Are the 208 and 215 two stage triggers the same? Same as the 208s and 215s minus the front-back adjustment?

Can the 2 stage on 208/215 be set to a short and light first stage?

I really appreciate your feedback.

Yes, the two stage trigger on the 208s (and I assume the 215) can be adjusted to do whatever you want.

However if you are really committed to a one stage trigger, you can save yourself some money as those guns without the two stage option tend to go a little cheaper.

If you are going for the whole thing (2700's) a lot of people like to go with a Marvel on a dedicated 1911 lower. That gives you almost the same trigger as on your 45. Again. however you want it, but usually one stage. I think a two stage trigger is probably possible on a 45 wad gun but I don't think most conventional pistol shooters bother with it.

Thanks Isabel. I need to research your recommendation. I am currently using my modified Buck Mark (sub 0.4", 5-shot, 25 yrd, CCI SV, Ransom rest) with UltraDot Match, Knill grips - scoring 800+. I am hoping to add 25 - 35 points to my score before end of summer.

I have shot a few of the other shooter's 1911's - including a "Kidd Gun". I am a long ways from being comfortable with CFs. I do not enjoy recoil. But the thought of using the same grip and trigger (almost) is quite interesting.

Does anyone make a 1911-clone .22 with the barrel built as part of the frame (like Hammerli)?

Do most Conv Pistol shooters use anatomical grips (e.g. Knill) on both or either of the guns?

bachekermooni wrote:Thanks Isabel. I need to research your recommendation. I am currently using my modified Buck Mark (sub 0.4", 5-shot, 25 yrd, CCI SV, Ransom rest) with UltraDot Match, Knill grips - scoring 800+. I am hoping to add 25 - 35 points to my score before end of summer.

I have shot a few of the other shooter's 1911's - including a "Kidd Gun". I am a long ways from being comfortable with CFs. I do not enjoy recoil. But the thought of using the same grip and trigger (almost) is quite interesting.

Does anyone make a 1911-clone .22 with the barrel built as part of the frame (like Hammerli)?

Do most Conv Pistol shooters use anatomical grips (e.g. Knill) on both or either of the guns?

OK I will answer what I can one issue at a time.
Where are you losing most of your points? Slow fire or rapid fire? Almost everyone shoots timed fire well so that is rarely an issue.

Recoil is not something to worry about. It happens after the shot goes down range. The trick is to find a stance, grip (and correctly balanced gun) and a triggering technique that allows you to quickly recover from the recoil and get back on target.

A lot of shooters are going to the Marvel for the reasons you stated, consistency.

Since a lot of shooters seem to be going for this, many of them try to use the same grips on their 22 as on their 45 so they either go all stright or all anatomical. CMM Shooting Sports makes grip adapters for both the Hammerli 208 and the Smith Model 41.
I personally prefer the straight grips, but am in a different situation from most shooters in that I am one of the maybe 10% on the line that shoots left handed. I have a lot of different guns. All have a different feel and I have found no difference in my scores between one grip and another. Going with straight is just easier for me.

The Hammerlis are popular guns for bullseye for a couple of reasons. I will list the pros and cons here so you can get some idea what the trade offs are.

The grip angle is the same as on the 1911. The trigger is very nice and can be adjusted to do pretty much what ever you want. The function is great. Hammerlis, unless you have a broken or bad part are like the proverbial energizer bunny. You will rarely have an alabi. They are ultra reliable.

The cons. If you set one up with a red dot with a BME mount all that stuff needs to come off in order to adjust the trigger. It is not something you can do easily on the line. The trigger is very wide and flat and does not have the same feel as a standard 1911 trigger. A standard Hammerli is very muzzle light and usually needs to be weighted in order to feel similar to the 45.

I believe there are some 22 pistols with fixed barrels built on the 1911 platform. However I have heard that most of them are either not accurate or not reliable. The Marvel correctly set up seems to be both, although I have heard the newer ones may need to have the barrel lined in order to be bullseye accurate at 50 yards.

I know for a fact that a Marvel won the rapid fire 22 match at Camp Perry last year since it is owned and shot by a gentleman who is a friend of mine. A lot of the AMU shooters are using them as well, but a lot of them still use Hammerlis.

Brian Zins won the 22 match (overall) at Perry this year shooting an AW-93 but said he almost went with his Marvel when he had to pick which gun he was going to shoot before the match.

Thanks Isabel. You are the greatest.
In slow fire I always seem to throw a couple of fliers as I do in in timed and rapid. In the first case, I know what I did wrong. In the other two, I have no idea as they go too fast. I was thinking of recording them to see if I can tell later what went wrong.
I have seriously considered buying the AW, but I have not shot one yet so I do not want to make the investment yet.
he 208s that I shot, I added the 80 gr weight (along with the Knapp mount). It felt better that way. I am thinking of finding a way to add weight to my Buck Mark.

Brian Zins had a clinic here in MN two weeks ago. Unfortunately I had to be out of town :-( Ohterwise that would have been a great opportunity. I have shot decent scores with standard grips on my Buck Mark as well.

I am going to try and practice more and experiment this summer. Then decide what my next .22 shooter will be.

with great regards.